Early cabbage: timing and methods of sowing seedlings. How to grow cabbage seedlings at home, timing of sowing cabbage for seedlings, planting in the ground, When to sow cabbage for seedlings

Among the many vegetable crops, cabbage occupies a leading position. It is unpretentious to grow if you follow a few simple rules. Experienced gardeners know exactly when to sow cabbage seedlings, so the growing process is not difficult for them.

Moreover, this vegetable, rich in vitamins and microelements, can withstand various unfavorable conditions and temperature changes. Thanks to this, it can be grown in different climatic zones.

    Important points

    When to plant early cabbage for seedlings

    Rules for planting seeds for seedlings

    Soil preparation, sowing cabbage seeds for seedlings

    Caring for cabbage seedlings

    Planting seedlings in open ground

    Some secrets for growing cabbage

Important points

Several important nuances that must be taken into account. The “do it, don’t regret it” method is not entirely suitable here. Some principles will need to be followed:

  • when to sow seeds for seedlings;
  • timing of sowing cabbage for seedlings;
  • what conditions to create while growing seedlings;
  • how and when to fertilize;
  • how to protect a plant from diseases and pests.

Modern summer residents and gardeners prefer to grow cabbage seedlings themselves. It's clear. The most common and dangerous disease of clubroot. Pest spores can easily be brought onto a site by seedlings purchased from unscrupulous sellers.

It is very difficult to remove the clubroot pathogen, since the disease progresses quickly, infects the soil throughout the entire area and harms almost all vegetable crops. Recognizing the disease on plant seedlings is quite difficult. This is why many people prefer to grow cabbage seedlings on their own.

It is important to know not only when to sow cabbage seedlings, but also when to plant it in open ground. It is impossible to answer unequivocally; it depends on the type of crop, the condition of the soil, and the climatic conditions where it will grow. Here are some simple rules that will help you harvest a rich harvest of healthy, vitamin-rich cabbage.

Equally important is the preliminary preparation of soil and seeds. This is an additional preventive measure that will help prevent the occurrence of diseases. It is enough to keep the cabbage seeds for about twenty minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate, and treat the soil with Bordeaux mixture, maintaining the proportions recommended by the manufacturer. A little later we will talk about how to prepare seeds and soil for planting.

When to plant early cabbage for seedlings

The timing of sowing seeds depends on the variety of cabbage and the climatic zone of the region where it grows. Among the many types, the main ones are:

  • early ripening;
  • mid-season cabbage;
  • late cabbage varieties.

But breeders suggest calculating on your own when to plant cabbage seedlings. It is necessary to determine the expected date when to plant cabbage seedlings in the ground. About two months should pass until this moment. That is, sowing cabbage for seedlings must be done 50, 60 days before planting in the ground.

It is important, when choosing the timing of sowing cabbage seeds, to take into account its variety. It looks like this:

  • early varieties are sown after March 10;
  • mid-season - after April 10;
  • late cabbage can be sown starting from March 15;
  • cauliflower, broccoli, kohlrabi - sow at intervals of 10, 15 days, starting from March 15;
  • the timing of planting Brussels sprouts is slightly different, the seeds are sown in April, starting around April 15;
  • The Savoy variety must be planted in March after the 20th.

These are approximate dates. But they are suitable for all regions, because the seedlings will grow in approximately the same conditions. When to plant seeds for seedlings is already clear, but there are still certain rules that make it clear how to properly plant cabbage for seedlings.

Rules for planting seeds for seedlings

It is important not only to know when to plant cabbage. An equally global issue is choosing the right seeds for seedlings and their preliminary preparation. This will increase the viability of seedlings and cabbage itself. First of all:

  • purchase seeds only in specialized stores;
  • check the expiration dates on the packaging;
  • choose varieties from different producers;
  • carry out calibration, do not use small seeds;
  • Pre-prepare the seeds.

For preliminary preparation, you can use a weak solution of potassium permanganate, keep it in the refrigerator for 12 hours, or immerse it in relatively hot water (no more than 50 C) for about 20 minutes. After this, dry it a little and you can plant the seeds in the prepared soil.

Soil preparation, sowing cabbage seeds for seedlings

Cabbage is a sustainable crop. But in order to improve these qualities, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil so that the seeded material produces stable seedlings. The soil is light, fertile with some peat. Breeders recommend using ready-made substrates containing all the necessary impurities when planting cabbage seedlings.

Another option is wood soil with the addition of peat and humus. But it will take at least a year to prepare it. Therefore, it is more profitable to use the first option.

Important! Soil from your own plot is not suitable, as it can be contaminated with various microorganisms. And before sowing cabbage seedlings in open ground, it is advisable to disinfect the soil.

There are two ways to plant cabbage, or rather its seeds:

  • with a pick;
  • without picking.

When choosing a method for growing seedlings, you must remember that each involves the use of different containers.

Planting cabbage for seedlings with picking involves the use of boxes, the height of which is about 5 centimeters, filled with soil. Furrows are made, and the planted material is kept at a distance of 2 centimeters from each other. After the first sprouts with two leaves appear, they are carefully transplanted into separate pots.

Without picking, it is necessary to plant seeds (1–2 pieces each) in individual cells or peat pots. A little later, one sprout is removed, so the strongest one remains. The weak one can be put in another place, giving him a chance to survive.

These two methods will definitely help you grow resistant seedlings. There is no point in creating warm, greenhouse conditions.

Cabbage does not like this, but daylight hours must be extended to at least 12 hours. This condition is necessary for all varieties of late and early white cabbage. Cauliflower, kohlrabi, and Savoy are heat-loving, so they will require not so much high temperature as constant temperature. For them, incorrect temperature conditions or sudden changes are destructive, but any late-ripening variety loves such experiments.

Therefore, the air temperature in the room where the seedlings are located is often changed. This method is also called hardening, when I lower the temperature to 12 degrees at night or expose the seedlings to cold air.

The picking method must be used with caution so as not to harm the root system. Be sure to keep an eye on this. It should be clear how to sow cabbage and in what month. It remains to figure out how to care for the seedlings and when to plant them in open ground.

Caring for cabbage seedlings

It should take about two months before you need to plant cabbage in open ground. But during this time, the seedlings require a lot of attention. It is necessary to observe temperature and light conditions. Otherwise, the seedlings will stretch out.

Immediately after planting the seeds for seedlings, place the containers in a warm place (18–20 degrees), and extend the daylight hours to 12 hours due to additional lighting.

After the first sprouts appear, the temperature can be reduced to 8–9 degrees, the light regime remains the same.

Important! Seedlings need to be hardened off from time to time by placing them outside in sunny, windless weather or frequently ventilating the premises. Cabbage is resistant to sudden changes, so it is often cultivated even in Siberia.

Hardening should begin three weeks before planting in the ground. The soil should not dry out, so regularly water the seedlings with settled water at room temperature.

It is necessary to fertilize the seedlings. To do this, tablets containing microelements or special fertilizer for cabbage seedlings are dissolved in water. If the soil for the seedlings has been prepared correctly, then one feeding is enough. If the plant looks lethargic, you can apply two feedings.

Before planting seedlings in open ground, carefully inspect them, especially the stem. There should be no black stripes. If even a slight inclusion in the form of purple or black stripes is noticeable, then the seedling must be disposed of. It is likely that this is a clubroot. Such a disease can destroy the entire crop and infect the soil. It is quite difficult to get rid of it.

The infected seedling is thrown out. Under no circumstances should you throw it away in the compost or just on a pile of weeds that will be burned. The causative agent of clubroot is tenacious. It survives fire, contaminates ash, and settles with smoke on clean soil.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Immediately before planting, the soil must be thoroughly dug up; you can pre-fertilize it with ash and bird droppings. Level the dug area and water it.

Important! It is good to plant cabbage in the places where tomatoes and potatoes grew last season. These crops disinfect the soil from possible clubroot pores.

Plants should be planted in sunny, windless weather in the late afternoon. It is necessary to maintain a distance in the row of about 40 centimeters and about 50 between the rows. Many gardeners plant in a checkerboard pattern. This is not important, it just saves a little space.

There are specific planting times for different regions. For example, in the southern regions this can be done at the beginning of April, but in Siberia they are planted closer to the end of April, more often in early May.

When planting seedlings, you will need to make holes of such depth that the seedlings can be deepened to the first full leaves. Thoroughly compact the area and water the plant at the root.

After this, make sure that the soil does not dry out and monitor the condition of the cabbage. It happens that a neighbor burns diseased plants, and the smoke settles on your site and contaminates not only healthy crops, but also the soil.

Some secrets for growing cabbage

There are many such secrets. But gardeners are happy to share with them, praising their own achievements. Some of the things proposed will definitely be suitable for your plot for the glory of future harvests.

The appearance of aphids even on one leaf is an unfavorable factor. If this happens, then you should not rush to remove the leaf or simply crush the aphids. There will be no large heads of cabbage. It is better to treat the plant with a thick foam of laundry soap. This will destroy not only aphids, but also caterpillars.

Large heads of cabbage will grow in the shade. Therefore, on sunny days you can shade the crop. Burdocks are suitable for this, from which you can build original houses. Cabbage goes well with plantations of cucumbers and dill. Feel free to plant seedlings in such places.

Another favorable neighbor for cabbage is lunaria. This dried flower is not used anywhere, but when adjacent to cabbage it has a beneficial effect on it. You will need no more than three bushes for the entire plantation.

During the period when the heads are forming, you can water the plant with iodine. 40 drops per ten liters of water is enough. Water one glass at a time directly under the root.

To prevent the heads of cabbage from becoming loose and rather large in size, you can fertilize the plant with a solution of boric acid. It is necessary to treat with boron by spraying; two such procedures are quite enough.

It is good to plant Chernobrivtsi (marigolds) between the rows; they can protect the plant from pests.

Late varieties produce good harvests if a large amount of humus has been added to the soil, approximately 60 kilograms for every 10 square meters.

In general, cabbage is rarely exposed to diseases, unless, of course, the soil is favorable for it and disinfected. It is worth adopting a remedy such as Bordeaux mixture. It contains copper sulfate and lime, which will help get rid of various soil contaminations.

Moreover, the same mixture can be used to treat a diseased plant by spraying. It is important to follow the proportions recommended by manufacturers. Too much can harm the culture and bring completely the opposite result.

Even for a beginner in gardening there is nothing difficult here. You just need to learn how to sow seeds for seedlings and properly plant cabbage in the ground. Just a little effort and care, and with the arrival of autumn, cabbage will thank its owner with a generous, bountiful harvest.

Cabbage is a popular vegetable with a rich range of nutrients. The culture is hypoallergenic, contains many vitamins (A, C, E of group B and PP), lutein and zeoxanthin (compounds that improve vision, they protect the retina from damage by free radicals, leading to cancer).

The presence of cabbage in the diet promotes the formation of bone tissue, improves metabolism, and helps regulate the process of hematopoiesis.

A biological feature of all types of cabbage is their susceptibility to diseases and pests. To obtain vegetables without signs of disease or pest damage, cabbage is treated with special preparations a couple of times a week (when grown on an industrial scale). To obtain an environmentally friendly product, it is advisable to grow cabbage on your own plot.

Selection of seed material and agricultural technology for growing cabbage seedlings

Any group (early, middle, late) is grown through seedlings. For the process to be successful, it is necessary to select high-quality seed material. Buy seeds in specialized stores. The following information must be indicated on the packaging: name of the variety, relationship to the group, growing region, approximate sowing and planting data in open ground, harvest dates. Pay attention to zoning - these varieties are the most resistant to diseases and pests. It is advisable to grow varieties of different ripening periods.

For all cabbages, regardless of the type (white cabbage, kohlrabi, Savoy, etc.), the technology for growing seedlings is the same. Differences in care begin after planting in open ground.

Growing methods may have some features: with picking, without picking, in boxes, in separate containers, in a greenhouse, etc. The leaves of the plant are fragile and easily damaged, so it is optimal to grow them in separate pots without picking. Picking can slow down the growth of a plant. This trick can be resorted to if the seedlings are sown too early or weather conditions are not conducive to transplanting into open ground. After picking, the plant’s stems will become straighter and thicker, and the seedlings will more easily tolerate subsequent transplanting.

When to plant cabbage seedlings

Time to plant cabbage seedlings:

  • When to plant early: sow early varieties of cabbage in late February-early March
  • Sow medium cabbage varieties from the third decade of March to the end of April
  • When to plant late cabbage for seedlings: Late varieties of cabbage are sown for seedlings during the first and second ten days of April.
  • June when to plant seedlings? To plant seedlings in early June, sow the seeds in late April or early May.
  • When to sow Brussels sprouts for seedlings: from the second ten days of March to the first ten days of April inclusive.
  • When to sow ornamental cabbage for seedlings: from mid-March to the end of April.
  • for seedlings: in the first ten days of April.
  • When to sow cauliflower for seedlings: in the second or third decade of March, 40-50 days before planting in the ground.

Time frames are approximate. When to plant cabbage seeds for seedlings depends on the variety, growing season of the plant, climatic conditions of your region (affects further development in open ground). Thus, early varieties are ready for harvest in 90-120 days, mid-ripening varieties in 150-170 days, and late varieties in 160-180 days.

Soil for cabbage seedlings and preparing containers

The soil needs to be nutritious, light, breathable, and moisture-absorbing. For those who do not like to waste time, it is quite possible to limit themselves to universal soil for seedlings.

The basis of the substrate can be turf or leaf soil (or both in equal proportions). Add humus or peat. Sawdust, perlite or river sand will help keep the soil loose. The mixture proportions are 1:2:1.

A mixture based on garden soil with the addition of ash, lime and sand is suitable.

Mix all ingredients thoroughly. Carry out disinfection using one of the following methods: freezing, calcination, steaming, treatment with a strong solution of potassium permanganate.

Treat the soil mixture, dried after disinfection, with an antifungal agent.

Then apply fertilizer. For 10 kg of soil you will need: 15-20 g of urea or ammonium nitrate, 20-25 g of granulated superphosphate, 25 g of slaked lime, 10 g of potassium sulfate. These components can be replaced by 30-35 g of nitroammophoska.

As containers you can use: regular boxes, special containers with cells, individual cups, peat pots.

Sowing cabbage for seedlings

  • When sowing in boxes, sow in rows, maintaining a distance of 5-6 cm between rows and 3-4 cm between plants.
  • When planting individually, place 1 seed in a cassette or peat pots.
  • Planting depth is 1-2 cm.
  • Cover the crops with film or glass.
  • Before the seedlings appear, moisten the soil with a fine spray.

How to properly sow cabbage seedlings at home video:

Growing cabbage seedlings from seeds

Conditions for growing cabbage seedlings

At different stages of seedling development, appropriate temperature conditions are required:

  • From the moment of sowing until the emergence of sprouts (about 7 days), the soil temperature should be 18-20 °C, and the ambient temperature during the day - 8-10 °C, at night - 7-9 °C.
  • After 12-15 days of growth, lower the soil temperature during the day to 15-17 °C, at night it should be 12 °C. Leave the air temperature indicators the same.

What to do to prevent cabbage seedlings from stretching video:

How to pick cabbage seedlings

At the stage of appearance of 2 true leaves, pick the seedlings. Pinch the root tip, then dig into the soil up to the cotyledons.

After picking, before planting in open ground, the soil temperature should be 10 °C, the air temperature during the day - 14-16 °C, at night - 7-10 °C.

Due to lack of lighting, seedlings stretch out. In order for the seedlings to be strong, it is necessary to provide 12-15 hours of daylight. You can use fluorescent lamps.

The soil should be slightly moist. Do not allow stagnation of moisture so that the thin roots do not suffer from rot. Water about once a week.

How to plant cabbage seedlings into cassettes at home, watch the video:

How to plant cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse, watch the video:

Diseases of cabbage seedlings

The following diseases can affect seedlings: blackleg, mucous and vascular bacteriosis, fusarium wilt.

To prevent this from happening, you should:

  • Water the seedlings with a solution of biological products (phytosporin, trichodermin or planriz). Prepare it according to the instructions on the package.
  • Mulch the soil with sand or other moisture-absorbing material.
  • Reduce the intensity and frequency of watering, especially if the air temperature is low.

Protection from pests is also necessary. Dangerous for cabbage are the cruciferous flea beetle, cabbage moth, cabbage fly, aphid, cutworm, white moth, etc. If pests appear, treat with a biological product in the tank mixture. Lepidocide, bitoxybacillin, and dendrobacillin have proven themselves well in the fight against leaf-eating insects.

How to feed cabbage seedlings


Feed the seedlings. At the stage of formation of 2-3 new leaves, add a solution: per 10 liters of water 20-25 g of superphosphate, 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 5-10 g of potassium chloride. It can be replaced with a solution of 30-35 g of nitroammophoska for the same volume of water. Apply the second feeding after 10-12 days, and the third (if necessary) after 15-20 days. After foliar feeding, be sure to rinse the seedlings with clean water.

How to harden correctly

It is important to harden the seedlings (accustom them to lower temperatures, greater access to oxygen, brighter lighting). Keep the night air temperature within 7-8 °C, daytime - 14-15 °C, and in cloudy weather - 12-14 °C.

Preparing cabbage seedlings for planting in the ground

When to plant cabbage seedlings in open ground

When to plant cabbage seedlings in the ground? Early seedlings are ready for transplanting into open ground after 45-55 days of growth, medium and late seedlings - after 35-45 days. The seedling must have a well-developed root system, an elastic stem, 5-7 leaf blades of the same color (without spots or damage), the height of the young plant should be 18-20, 20-25 cm, respectively.

Cabbage seedlings are not afraid of low temperatures; they can be planted in stable weather without night frosts. Plants can withstand short-term cold snaps down to -2°C, but it is better to plant them when there are no return frosts.

The digital data in the article is average and approximate. In each individual case they will have their own values ​​close to those indicated.

Cabbage seedlings are planted sparsely, following an average pattern of 40x50 cm. Make holes that are slightly buried so that they retain water after watering. Subsequently, when loosening, the earth is leveled, slightly covering the cabbage stem to the level of the leaves, due to which a more powerful root system develops.

Cabbage has long been on the list of Russians' favorite vegetables. It is grown by all summer residents and gardeners, without exception, because many dishes can be prepared from it. In addition, this agricultural crop has a number of medicinal properties. Almost all varietal diversity is grown through seedlings, otherwise the harvest will not be achieved in the middle zone. In this article we will tell you about the main secrets of growing white cabbage.

Preparatory work - selecting seeds and preparing the substrate

The timing of vegetable ripening depends largely on the biennial variety. There are three types of white cabbage: early, middle and late varieties. The first is suitable for eating in raw form, since the tender, juicy fruits are not stored for a long time. The second can be used both fresh and for fermentation. And the third one is better left for winter storage.

Sort the seeds purchased from gardeners or collected yourself. Choose the largest ones - those larger than 1.5 mm. Keep them in hot water (temperature +48–+50 degrees) for 15–20 minutes, this will help prevent fungal infections. After this, immediately place the grains in cold water for a couple of minutes.

Dry the planting material until it completely crumbles. Instead of hot water, you can use Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B and Gamair. The last two drugs are mixed one tablet in one liter of water. The duration of treatment in this case is from 8 to 18 hours at room temperature.

Note! Beans purchased in stores most often already undergo sanitary treatment. Study the product description on the packaging; manufacturers indicate similar information.

Cabbage seeds can be stored for 3–4 years. Five-year-old samples can also sprout, but they will be weak and sluggish. Most likely, such seedlings will not be able to overcome unfavorable conditions and it is better not to expect a rich harvest from them.

Sometimes encrusted seeds are found on sale. This means that they have gone through all the preparation and do not need to be soaked or heated. They don't need nutrient solutions either. Sow them dry without any treatment, otherwise you will lose germination.

Unencrusted grains will have to be dipped in the enriched tincture for 12 hours. For this purpose, use the following drugs:

  • potassium lignohumate;
  • potassium humate;
  • microelements solution;
  • Epin;
  • Zircon.

After this, rinse the planting material under clean water and harden in the refrigerator for 24 hours. A temperature of +1–+2 degrees will speed up the germination process and increase the plant’s level of cold resistance.

Prepare the soil for seedlings from peat, half-rotted sawdust, turf soil and sand. It is not recommended to use organic substances - compost and humus - in soil mixtures. It is best to mix peat, turf soil and sand in a percentage ratio of 75:20:5. Mineral fertilizing when sowing cabbage seeds is also undesirable.

Compose the substrate for picking as follows: add 1 tablespoon of double superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of wood soil to a bucket of soil mixture. Prepare the mixture several weeks before planting.

If you do not want to make the substrates yourself, purchase them ready-made at the store. Special soils are suitable for cabbage seedlings, as well as universal soil mixtures (with a neutral acidity level) for growing vegetables.

Advice! Check soil acidity levels at home. To do this, buy a special measuring device - it will always be useful for experienced gardeners and beginners.

Growing white cabbage through seedlings - what you need to know

Cruciferous plants can be planted as seedlings with or without picking, as well as without seedlings. For the middle zone of the country, the first option is most acceptable. Early varieties should be sown between March 15 and March 25. To extend the timing of seedlings, sow the seeds at intervals of 3–4 days. All other varieties are recommended to be planted from the second ten days of April.

When sowing cabbage seedlings, start by preparing the planting containers. Select bowls or boxes 4–5 cm deep and fill them with soil mixture so that 1–2 cm remains to the edge. Level the soil and water it with Alerin-B and Gamaira solution 1–3 days before planting. For tincture, use 2 tablets of each drug, dissolved in 10 liters of water.

Plant the grains in grooves 1 cm deep, the distance between them should be approximately 3 cm. Place the seeds in miniature grooves in increments of 1–1.5 cm, then sprinkle them with a little soil. Lightly compact the soil surface and place the container with the seedlings on a warm windowsill before germination. Acceptable temperature for germination is +18–+20 degrees.

After 4–5 days, the first shoots will hatch. When they appear, reduce the air temperature to +7–+9 degrees. Keep the seedlings in this environment for a week. Without such a procedure, the crops will quickly grow upward and soon disappear.

Advice! Reducing the temperature can be achieved by hanging the battery with a thick cloth. If the weather outside is not frosty and there are no cracks in the window frames, move the drawers closer to the window. This problem can be solved in another way. Separate the window from room temperature with plastic film.

Plant the seedlings into new pots after 8–10 days. The permissible container diameter is 6–8 cm. Early cabbage grows longer than others, so it needs larger boxes. Water the transplanted sprouts with the same solution that you fertilized the soil with before sowing. Only this time, dilute one tablet of medication in water. Then place the shoots again in a warm place.

Carry out the diving procedure as follows:

  • discard weak, underdeveloped shoots;
  • place the strongest seedlings in the substrate, deepening the sprout to the level of the cotyledon leaves;
  • after treating with fertilizer, sprinkle the soil surface with a 2 mm layer of calcined or washed river sand;
  • when the seedlings take root, maintain the room temperature at least +10 degrees at night and no higher than +14 during the day;
  • During the first 14 days, seedlings grow at a slow pace, then growth accelerates.

In the case of growing seedlings without picking, initially take large containers with a wall height of 7–8 cm. Add a layer of soil 6–7 cm thick. Partitions made of plywood or cardboard will help prevent injury to the roots when planting seedlings in open ground.

From the selected material, build small cubes or cells corresponding to the feeding area of ​​one vegetable. In addition to these devices, you can use special seedling cassettes. Sow two cabbage grains in one cell. Later, when seedlings form, leave the stronger samples and remove the weak ones.

Caring for seedlings after picking - properly watering, fertilizing and hardening off the seedlings

While the shoots are developing at home, give them three mandatory feedings:

  1. 1. Apply the first fertilizers a week after transplanting. Dilute ammonium nitrate (2 g), potassium preparation and superphosphate (4 g) in 1 liter of water. This solution is enough to add 50–60 seedlings.
  2. 2. The second procedure is carried out 10–15 days after the previous one. Dilute the above substances in the same amount of water, but double their concentration.
  3. 3. Apply the third feeding 2–3 days before planting the shoots in open ground. This time, use ready-made purchased complex fertilizers. For example, "Kemira Lux", "Strong" or "Solution".

Due to the fact that nutrient mixtures can cause burns to young plants, water the sprouts generously. Do this before and after fertilizing.

Thanks to hardening procedures, seedlings tolerate replanting less painfully and adapt better to new conditions in the garden. Perform hardening in this way:

  • to begin with, open the window above the seedlings (3–4 hours), do this for the first 2–3 days;
  • next week, take the shoots out onto the balcony, garden or other cool place for 1–2 hours; To prevent the sun's rays from harming the delicate sprouts, cover them with gauze or a thin cloth;
  • For the last 7 days before picking, reduce watering and keep the seedlings outdoors.

At the time of planting young cabbage in the garden bed, each specimen should grow approximately 5–7 leaves. The height of the stem can be 12–17 cm. Seedlings of late and mid-ripening varieties can have 4–6 leaves at a height of 15–20 cm. The indicated parameters are achieved by early-ripening species by the beginning of May, by late-ripening varieties by the middle of the month, and mid-ripening ones will achieve such indicators at the end of spring or early summer.

Water the crop as the soil dries out. Remember that all cruciferous plants are moisture-loving plants. Therefore, prolonged drying is harmful for them. Avoid over-irrigation either. Excess moisture in the soil can cause fungus or viral infection.

Among other things, the seedlings of this biennial require a constant source of light. In cloudy weather, illuminate it with a fluorescent lamp. The seedlings will benefit greatly from a phytolamp, which can be purchased in specialized stores. Make sure that the seedlings are exposed to light for 12–15 hours a day. This is the only way the plant will grow stronger and stronger.

If care measures were somehow violated, fragile plants may be attacked by infections. In addition, there are a lot of pests ready to feast on fresh crops.

If blackleg disease occurs, dry the soil from the pot, treat the seedlings with ash, and then loosen the soil. If the seedlings are infected with root rot, use the drugs trichomedrine or rhizoplan. They are environmentally friendly, and the substances they contain inhibit any pathogenic microorganisms.

Quite a few gardeners plant cabbage on their plot using seedlings. When planted in open ground, seedlings grown in greenhouse conditions more easily withstand difficult weather conditions, pest attacks, and lack of nutrients. As a result, it is possible to achieve significantly higher yields. Having chosen this method of planting, it is important to know when is the best time to plant cabbage seedlings and how to care for it subsequently. The answer to these questions will be different for each variety and region.

Timing for sowing white cabbage seeds for seedlings

To obtain strong, healthy seedlings that will grow successfully in open ground, the gardener needs to determine for himself when to sow cabbage for seedlings. And although almost all white cabbage is maximally adapted to the domestic climate and soil composition, the issue of timing of seed sowing remains relevant.

You need to understand that there is no clear answer. Sowing time is individual for each specific variety of white cabbage. In addition, the climatic conditions of the region largely influence the timing of seed planting.

Depending on the variety

Each variety of cabbage has its own timing for the appearance of seedlings, the beginning of the ovary, and the maturation of the heads. Accordingly, seed manufacturers indicate such parameters on the packaging of their products.

Depending on the duration of the period from the moment of sowing the seeds to the full ripening of the heads, all white cabbage varieties are divided into three types:

  1. Early. Such vegetables are grown in 90–110 days.
  2. Average. These varieties fully ripen 120–130 days after they are sown.
  3. Late. The full growing season for such crops lasts from 135 to 160 days.

Taking into account the ripening period of a particular variety, the sowing time is also selected. So, for each type of crop the following seed planting time is characteristic:

  1. Early. All early varieties are planted between mid-February and early March.
  2. Average. Such varieties are sown in mid-March - early April.
  3. Late. These varieties are thermophilic. If seedlings emerge early, they may freeze in cold soil. Therefore, they begin to plant it no earlier than the end of March.

Depending on the climatic conditions of the area

Knowing the climate conditions of the region will allow you to more accurately determine when to sow cabbage seeds. Despite the fact that many varieties of cabbage survive cold without consequences, at the time of planting seedlings the earth should warm up to at least +5 degrees. In different regions, such warming occurs at different times. Accordingly, the sowing date should be selected so that by the time the weather warms up, the seedlings are already sufficiently strong.

For different zones of Russia, the following terms will be acceptable:

  • Siberia and the Urals - from the second week of April until the end (depending on the variety).
  • Moscow region - from mid-March (early) to mid-April (late).
  • Volga region - from the end of March to the end of April.
  • Bashkiria and Perm Territory - early varieties are sown at the end of the second week of March.

For Transbaikalia, the timing of planting seedlings is at the beginning of June. Accordingly, sowing time is selected based on the variety.

When to plant different types of cabbage for seedlings

Other types of cabbage require different ripening periods from white cabbage varieties. Accordingly, they should be planted at a different time. In this case, there are also clearly defined recommendations from manufacturers and adjustments for the region.

Cauliflower

Cauliflower is much more demanding in terms of temperature conditions. At the time the ovary appears, the air temperature should be at least 16–20 degrees and without serious changes. Otherwise, the entire crop will die.

This heat-loving nature shifts the timing of seed planting to a later period. Moreover, they also depend on the crop variety:

  1. Early. Early varieties are sown in early to mid-March.
  2. Average. Mid-season varieties are planted in the first two weeks of April.
  3. Late. This type is sown for seedlings at the end of the second week of May.

Broccoli

When planting broccoli seeds, it should be taken into account that the seedlings reach the desired condition within a month. Accordingly, by this moment, gardeners are already ready to plant crops in open ground.

To help with temperature, sow broccoli seeds in mid-March. Every 15 days, seeds can be added to the planted area. This will improve germination. If several passes are made, the final batch is sown no later than the last ten days of May.

Peking and kohlrabi

Types of cabbage such as Chinese cabbage and kohlrabi are quite exotic for Russia. But in certain regions they are grown. Seeds are sown to obtain seedlings of such crops starting from the second week of March.

When planting, you should remember that 3-4 weeks pass after sowing before transplanting into open soil. The total ripening period for the heads is 90 days.

Basic rules for growing cabbage seedlings

Having decided when to sow cabbage seeds for seedlings, you should also understand the issue of correctly performing the procedure. In addition, young shoots of the crop also require special care. Without proper attention to these points, even cabbage planted on time will not bring the expected harvest.

Soil requirements

Cabbage takes almost all the nutrients necessary for growth and development from the soil. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the soil for seedlings. It is prepared by mixing the following components:

  • soil with turf - half a bucket;
  • sand - half a bucket;
  • ash – 8-10 tablespoons.

When collecting soil, you should not take it from where cabbage, horseradish, radishes or other cruciferous crops previously grew. They are characterized by the same diseases, the pathogens of which can live in the ground for years.

After preparing the parts, mix them thoroughly until smooth. Then the soil is poured with boiling water, dried, sifted and loosened well. Such procedures will disinfect the soil and fluff it up for better moisture passage.

Reference. To simplify the task, many summer residents purchase special soil in stores. Soil for seedlings is sold in bags. It is already balanced in composition, acidity and other parameters.

Landing tanks

When it comes to containers in which to grow strong seedlings, there are many options. Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and characteristics of growing plants. The most popular include:

  1. Regular plastic cups. Such containers are popular due to their low cost. In addition, it is much easier to care for seedlings in such containers, and the roots are not damaged during transplantation. In addition, the cups can be used for several years. But it should be noted that before use, drainage holes must be made in them.
  2. General plastic boxes. Seedlings planted in them feel quite good if there is drainage. Also, such containers are convenient for transportation and can be easily assembled at home. One of the disadvantages of the box is the high probability of damage to seedlings during planting or transplanting into the ground.
  3. Special peat tablets. After soaking, such a container for planting swells into a peat ball in a shell. The seed is sown directly into it. The advantages of the tablet include the absence of the need to remove seedlings from the container before planting. Over time, in open ground, the container dissolves on its own.
  4. Plastic cassettes. Such products are manufactured specifically for growing seedlings and offer different capacities. The seed is planted in separate cells connected to each other by thin plastic solders. Such cassettes are convenient to use, since the required number of cells can be easily cut with scissors. In addition, removing one seedling does not damage the roots of the others. But since thin plastic bends a lot, it is extremely difficult to carry full cassettes without an additional pallet.

Reference. More budget-friendly options include regular glass jars, paper egg trays, and even whole eggshells. But whatever option is chosen, the specifics of its use should be strictly observed.

Preparing cabbage seeds for sowing

Another condition necessary for good germination, rapid growth and development of seeds is their proper preparation.

The process of preparing cabbage seeds consists of the following steps:

  1. Sorting. Damaged, rotten, excessively large or small particles are selected from the total mass of seed. This will help increase germination.
  2. Disinfection. The seeds remaining after sorting are placed in gauze, folded several times. Next, the fabric with the seeds is folded several more times and immersed in water heated to 50 degrees for 10–15 minutes. After the procedure, the bundle is taken out and immediately transferred to a container with cold water for a couple of minutes.
  3. Soaking. After the gauze is removed from the liquid, it is placed in the same form in a dark place, making sure that it is constantly wet for two days. This procedure will ensure the swelling of the seeds and speed up the germination of the sprouts. At the end of the specified period, the seed is thoroughly dried.
  4. Feeding. To improve growth and increase the percentage of germination, seeds are also soaked in special stimulants. An example of such a composition is the drug "Epin". A solution is prepared from it in the proportions of 3 drops of the product per liter of water. Seeds in gauze are soaked in this liquid for 2–3 hours. After this, they immediately sow in the ground.

It is worth noting that the implementation of all these procedures is necessary mainly for seeds taken from hand. If the seed was bought in a store, you should carefully study the packaging and find out what stages of preparation it went through. Seeds that are fully colored in different colors do not need to be processed. It is useful to soak a seed without coloring for a couple of days before planting in gauze with warm water.

Scheme of sowing seeds for seedlings

For full development, cabbage sprouts need to constantly absorb moisture and necessary substances from the surrounding soil. At the same time, a certain nutrient area should be free around it. Depending on the crop, it determines the distance between the seeds during planting.

The optimal sowing pattern depends on the planting method used:

  1. When planting in rows, adhere to the following measurements: the distance between seeds is 1.5 cm, the distance between rows is 3 cm.
  2. In the case of sowing with a continuous carpet in a box, a 2x2 scheme will be relevant, i.e., each seed in the longitudinal and transverse rows is 2 cm away from its neighbors.

This scheme is most suitable for planting crops. If you sow cabbage more densely, the seedlings will interfere with each other. This will lead to the fact that they either lag behind in development or will stretch upward too much, which will also harm further yields.

Carrying out sowing work and caring for seedlings

If the summer resident is determined to pick seedlings, then it will be enough to scatter the seeds into a common box, taking into account the recommended scheme. If you have suitable containers, you can lower the dive and plant the seeds in separate containers.

The sowing process itself is carried out according to the instructions:

  1. The previously prepared earthen mixture is poured into the prepared container. The depth of the soil lump should be at least 4 cm.
  2. The surface of the earth is moistened abundantly with water and waited until all the moisture goes deep into the soil.
  3. When using a box and a 1.5x3 pattern, rows are made on the surface of the ground at a distance of 3 cm from each other along the entire length of the container. Their depth is 1 cm.
  4. Seeds are placed in rows at a distance of 1.5 cm from each other.
  5. From above, the grooves are carefully covered with the remains of the earthen substrate.
  6. Water is sprayed over the sown area so that it does not blur the furrows.

After sowing, the box is placed in a prepared corner with good daylight. The recommended temperature in the room with seedlings is 17–20 degrees.

If you follow the sowing rules, the first shoots appear within a week. They also require certain care, which includes the following:

  1. To prevent sprouts from stretching, the temperature is lowered to 10–12 degrees.
  2. Daylight hours should last about 12 hours. If it gets dark early and there is not enough light, you need to buy and use a special phytolamp.
  3. Watering is carried out as the soil dries at the base of the stem. In this case, the water should be settled and heated to room temperature. To improve aeration and moisture passage, the top of the soil is often loosened.
  4. A week or two before planting, the strong seedlings are hardened off by taking the box outside. The first “walk” should last an hour. With each subsequent day, the time increases.

Fertilizing is carried out by diluting 4 g of superphosphate, 2 g of nitrate, 1 g of potassium-based fertilizer in a liter of water. The procedure is carried out when two leaves appear, a week after picking and 2-3 days before transplanting into open ground.

When to plant cabbage seedlings?

When mass planting cabbage in a common box, it is necessary to pick - planting the sprouts in larger individual containers. In such containers, the nutritive area of ​​the plant increases, which promotes more intensive growth.

Seedlings begin to sprout when they acquire two full leaves. In this case, 1–2 lower cotyledon leaves serve as a marker to which it is necessary to deepen the plant into a new container.

When to plant cabbage seedlings in open ground?

If all recommendations are followed, after 60–65 days from the moment of sowing, the strengthened and hardened seedlings are ready for planting. In some cases, this procedure can be delayed for another 5–7 days. An indicator that cabbage is ready for planting is the appearance of at least 4 full leaves on the stem, while the open soil should warm up to 5 degrees.

As a rule, the period for planting seedlings falls in the second or third ten days of May. Only some late varieties are moved to the garden in early June.

When planting cabbage seedlings, the crop's yield and its resistance to adverse weather conditions and diseases significantly increase. In addition, this method of cultivation allows you to obtain vegetable harvests much earlier than in the case of sowing directly into open ground. But this approach requires the gardener to know when to sow seeds for seedlings, how to care for seedlings, and when to plant. Only in this case will it be possible to fully unlock the potential of the seed material.

Growing white cabbage usually begins with preparing seedlings. It is almost impossible to grow strong seedlings in a city apartment, it is too hot there, but in greenhouses this is not at all difficult. You just need to sow the seeds on time and put a little effort into caring for the young plants.

Is it necessary to grow cabbage from seedlings?

The question of whether it is mandatory to grow cabbage seedlings is related to two points: what kind of cabbage we are talking about, and in what region we live. The fact is that many late varieties of white cabbage have a life cycle of about six months, or even more. This means that even if you plan the harvest for mid-October, you need to sow the seeds in early April, which is difficult to do directly in the garden bed in the conditions of the middle zone. Early varieties stay in the garden for a much shorter time, but if you sow them immediately in a permanent place, the harvest can no longer be called early.

However, it turns out that even in the southern regions, where March sowing in the garden is quite possible, cabbage is often grown through seedlings; True, they don’t do it at home. They simply sow the seeds thickly in the garden bed and then plant them, that is, they actually grow them through seedlings. For what? The fact is that cabbage heads work out better with transplantation: it seems that the traumatic operation only benefits the seedlings.

Is it possible not to bother and immediately sow the seeds in the holes in a permanent place, and harvest the crop in the fall? It’s possible, they do that too. But often with such a simplified approach, the plants are weaker (their roots do not develop as well), and as a result, the yield decreases. Thus, it should be recognized that growing white cabbage through the seedling stage is not necessary, but very desirable.

When to sow: lunar calendar 2019

You should immediately decide on the order of sowing cabbage seeds of different ripening periods. Not everything is clear here, although there is logic. Seedlings of any variety are planted in a permanent place at the age of 40 to 50 days. If the cabbage is early, then you need to take full advantage of this term and get vitamin products as early as possible. This cabbage will not be stored; the heads of cabbage are usually small, not very dense, and are happily eaten in the form of salads. Consequently, early varieties are sown first. Usually in the middle zone this happens in mid-March, but if there is such an opportunity (southern region or greenhouse), this can be done in February.

Early cabbage heads are small, but size is not the point: a spoon is expensive for dinner

Late varieties of cabbage are intended for long-term fresh storage in cellars. Its heads of cabbage reach ripeness in the autumn months, even falling under light frosts in the beds, which does not bother them at all: they should be put in the cellar as late as possible. Therefore, sowing too early is not necessary. However, based on the length of the growing season, it turns out that the approximate sowing time for late varieties falls in mid-April.

Late varieties grow in dense heads of cabbage and stay in the garden for a long time, so they also have to be sown early

Medium-ripening cabbage is grown for autumn consumption (it is stored worse than late cabbage) and pickling, which is usually done in the fall. Therefore, these varieties are harvested in September-October, and in order for them to ripen by this time, the seeds can be sown a little later than in the case of late varieties. Sowing time is around the end of April. Obviously, all the mentioned dates are approximate: in the south they shift somewhat in one direction, and in the conditions of the Urals or Siberia - in the other.

At the end of the twentieth century, a boom began among gardeners associated with the publication of various kinds of sowing calendars related to the life cycle of celestial bodies. The most popular is the Lunar calendar, which links favorable and unfavorable days of gardening with the constellation in which the Earth’s satellite, the Moon, is located.

There is indisputable evidence that the growth of various crops is differently associated with the phases of the moon, but how serious this influence is is difficult to judge: as a rule, approximately the same harvest is obtained from those summer residents who strictly follow the calendars and those who simply have no time to follow them .

Counts,that the periods of the new moon and full moon are prohibited for sowing, replanting and any other operations with plants. These days, the flora seems to freeze and prepare for the change of the lunar phase. If you strictly follow the Lunar calendar, then in 2019 the following days are allowed for sowing cabbage:

  • in February - 21, 22, 25, 26;
  • in March - 20, 21, 25, 26;
  • in April - 18, 21;
  • in May - 19, 24.

It would be sad to look at these dates (but they are given in many authoritative sources!). If you follow them strictly, then the most necessary time for sowing is missing: the beginning and middle of April. And if the gardener has to be at work on the 18th and 21st... Fortunately, other publications publish their own versions of the calendar, less strict, and the April numbers in them look like this: April 7, 8, 18, 20–21.

Well, things have gotten better, there are days at the beginning of the month. All this would be funny, but really, after looking at a dozen magazines and Internet sites, you come to the conclusion that many write the way they want, and if this is so, then there is little point in strictly following such calendars. There is time - we focus on the source we like and is trustworthy. No - we sow when we have free time, based on scientific data and our experience.

Preliminary preparation

Preparation for sowing cabbage for seedlings consists of purchasing and processing containers, seed material and soil. In terms of packaging, nothing special is required. Yes, it is very convenient to use peat tablets or pots. But cabbage responds well to transplantation, so you can grow it at home even in common boxes. And since picking only benefits it, it is best to prepare small boxes and any cups measuring about 7 x 7 cm. You don’t need anything in the greenhouse: the seeds are sown directly into the ground.

Seed preparation

There are many recipes you can read about preparing seeds. These include sizing, disinfecting, soaking, hardening, etc. Let's ask ourselves: do we have time for all this? If the seeds are collected in your own garden, then almost all of this will actually have to be done. But how many summer residents prepare their cabbage seeds, which they produce only in the second year? After all, it is necessary to preserve a healthy stalk until spring, plant it, care for it... The store now sells seeds for every taste, and in the case of cabbage varieties, they are not that expensive.

Yes, until recently there were companies that could hardly be trusted, and instead of cabbage you could buy, for example, turnips. Now most of these organizations have left the market. True, mis-grading does happen, and you may end up with a variety that is not the one you wanted, but from a quality point of view, the seeds are usually sold quite suitable, and they do not require any additional preparation. Cabbage seeds remain viable for 4–5 years, and fresher seeds are usually put on sale.

Cabbage seeds are medium sized and easy to handle.

It is recommended to carry out calibration by dipping the seeds in salt water. Well, this method is good for light seeds like peppers or tomatoes! In cabbage, almost all the seeds will sink, only the broken ones will remain floating, and there are very few of them. Do I need to disinfect purchased seeds? I haven't done this for many years. But those who are concerned about the presence of infectious agents in the bag can do so. The usual recipe: 15–20 minutes in a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of about 48–50 o C, followed by rinsing.

Many gardeners advise soaking seeds before sowing, including in solutions of microfertilizers. Of course, this won’t do any harm, but it won’t give much effect either. As does hardening soaked seeds in the refrigerator. Cabbage is so cold-resistant that such measures will only take up your time, which in our fast-paced age can be spent on something more necessary.

High-quality cabbage seeds, if they are not found on some treasured shelf and have not been stored there for many years, will sprout without any preparation, dry, and a difference of one or two days will not make a difference to us. Therefore, you should listen to all the advice, but let it pass through yourself when deciding whether to carry out this or that stage.

Soil preparation

But carefully preparing the soil for sowing is more serious, especially if the soil is taken from the garden. At the very least, it is strictly forbidden to take it from the garden where cruciferous vegetables (cabbage, radishes, radishes) grew. To grow a small amount of seedlings, you can buy soil in the store, but if you have something to prepare it from, you shouldn’t waste your money. Moreover, we are only talking about growing seedlings at home, and this is not done often: cabbage seedlings at home are simply very hot.

So, if you plan to sow at home, then the best soil composition is turf soil, peat and sand, taken in equal parts. In addition, you need to add a half-liter jar of wood ash to a bucket of this mixture. You can add a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate, but you can do without it; it’s better to then make up for the lack of fertilizers with fertilizing.

To grow cabbage seedlings, it is not recommended to use humus, even good quality: in this case, it grows more pampered.

The soil you prepare yourself must be disinfected. The choice of method is not for everyone. Freezing the soil is easy, but it does not kill all possible pathogens. Steaming in the oven at a temperature of about 100 o C is more reliable, but at this time it will not be so pleasant to be in the kitchen. In addition, hot processing kills beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Probably the best way is, after all, pouring it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Unlike seed dressing, for soil the concentration of the solution should be lower. There is no point in giving numerical values: how can the average Russian citizen take a 0.5 g sample at home? It should be a pink solution. Not weak pink, but such that the color is quite intense. But through the solution poured into a liter jar, it was possible to discern what was behind it. This is roughly the guideline. It is better to spill the soil with a warm solution, but not hot. So that it becomes visibly wet. After this, it will have to dry out for a couple of days, otherwise it will be impossible to even make furrows for sowing.

The middle solution is suitable for soil disinfection, and the one on the left is suitable for seeds.

How to grow seedlings of early and late cabbage at home

Cabbage seedlings are easily grown in open ground, at least late and mid-late varieties and in not too northern regions. At home, in a city apartment, you have to do this only for early production, but growing high-quality seedlings at home is extremely difficult. The best option for most regions is a small greenhouse or unheated greenhouse.

On the windowsill in a house or apartment

If there is a need to grow seedlings on a windowsill, then this should be the coldest and most illuminated window sill in the house. And the owners will have to put up with constantly open windows: a temperature that is comfortable for humans is destructive for cabbage seedlings.

There is no point in immediately sowing seeds in separate pots, unless they are peat tablets. All the same, 10 days after germination, they will need to be replanted by pinching off the tip of the main root: this is the only way to grow relatively strong seedlings at home. Therefore, we sow in a small box. Suitable size rectangular cardboard boxes for milk, kefir, juice, etc. can withstand the seedlings for two weeks. If you cut off one of the large sides of the box and make several holes in the second to drain excess water, you get an excellent container for the first time. Moreover, the sowing container does not need a soil layer of more than 4 cm. The sowing technique is simple, but caring for the seedlings is not so much:

  1. We sow the seeds in moist soil, in furrows, at a distance of about 3 cm from each other. The embedment depth is about 1 cm.

    Any available container will do for primary sowing.

  2. We fill it with soil and compact it. You can cover it with glass, but they will sprout just the same. We have a few days of quiet life while the box of crops can be kept at room temperature.
  3. As soon as at least a couple of sprouts have hatched, place the box in the brightest light and in the cold: 10–12 o C during the day and 6–8 o C at night. If you missed at least one day, you can throw it away and sow again. Within a day in the warmth, the seedlings stretch up to 5 cm, and they can no longer be saved.
  4. If everything is normal with the temperature (only the owners are cold), care is simple: do not overheat for the first week, then it can be a few degrees higher, but not more than 16 o C. Night heat is especially terrible.
  5. Water lightly, just so as not to dry out the soil. And as much light as possible! If the seedlings are too dense and are already shading themselves, we don’t wait, we thin them out.
  6. While there is time, we are preparing a new home. Individual cups are best, but a larger box with a depth of at least 7–8 cm will also work.
  7. In about ten days, the first true leaf will appear above the cotyledon leaves. This is a signal that it is time for the seedlings to dive.
  8. The picking is usual: carefully dig up the seedlings. If the root is small, you can hardly touch it, but we pinch the medium and long ones, tearing a few millimeters from the top. We plant it in the hole, press the soil with our fingers, and carefully water it. If we dive into a common box, the diagram is approximately 6 x 6 cm.

    You need to dive early: there should be a maximum of one true leaf

  9. For the first few days we put it in partial shade, the temperature is 18–20 o C. Then we return it to a cold, illuminated windowsill.
  10. In the phase of two true leaves, we feed with any complex fertilizer according to the instructions for it. A week before planting in the garden, we repeat fertilizing.
  11. Immediately after the second feeding, we accustom the seedlings to even harsher conditions, temporarily taking them out onto the balcony.

Seedlings ready for planting should have a stocky appearance, a thick stem and 5-6 succulent leaves.

Good seedlings are short but strong

There is only one advantage to growing seedlings on a windowsill: they are under supervision all the time. But it creates a lot of inconveniences.

Video: growing cabbage seedlings

In the greenhouse

If you have a small unheated greenhouse at your dacha, it is better to use this option. True, you will need to visit the seedlings often: ideally, at least every other day. The greenhouse cultivation of early cabbage seedlings makes the most sense; varieties of later ripening in the middle zone and in the south can be sown in open ground, under temporary shelter.

Sowing early varieties of cabbage in a greenhouse can be carried out at any time, which is determined only by the climate of the region and the current weather: the seeds must germinate at a temperature inside the greenhouse of at least 10 o C, otherwise their hatching will take too long, and under unfavorable conditions, the death of some of the seeds is possible. You can sow either in a box (just like in an apartment) or directly in a prepared seedling bed.

The first method of growing seedlings is no different from growing on a windowsill: the same sowing, the same care, compliance with temperature, humidity and light conditions. But picking is possible both in cups or a large box, and directly in the garden bed, whichever is more convenient for the gardener.

If seeds are sown in a garden bed, the soil in it must be prepared in the same way as for a box: make it loose and safe. It is better to generally replace the soil in the seedling bed, preparing it in the same way as at home: from soil, sand, peat and ash. Before sowing, water it with a solution of potassium permanganate, let it dry, loosen it and sow the seeds according to a convenient pattern.

The latter implies that seedlings can be grown in a garden bed without picking, as long as the temperature is strictly observed. If by the time the real leaves form the seedlings have not stretched at all, picking does not need to be done. Obviously, if you plan to do without picking, you must immediately sow the seeds less often, according to the 6 x 6 cm pattern (or thin out the seedlings after they sprout and grow slightly).

In a greenhouse, seedlings can be grown in both pots and beds

Growing in a greenhouse involves systematically ventilating it by opening doors or windows. The risk of infection with blackleg is no lower than at home, and this disease attacks, first of all, with excess soil and air moisture. Growing cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse is more convenient than at home, but these advantages only appear if the owner can systematically monitor its condition.

Video: cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

Growing in open ground

You can immediately sow cabbage seeds in a permanent place in the garden bed as soon as the weather permits. To reduce the risk, place several seeds in each prepared hole and cover the holes with a cut-off plastic bottle for the first time. This approach saves time, since it does not require subsequent replanting, but, as a rule, in early spring the soil is still so difficult to work with that it is easier to prepare a small seedling bed than a large bed for growing cabbage “from start to finish.”

Video: growing cabbage in the ground without seedlings

Of course, the possibility of growing seedlings in the garden also depends on when it will be possible to get to the site: sometimes the roads dry out too late. But as a rule, in central Russia in mid-April, sowing is already possible. It is better to prepare a small bed in the fall by digging it well and adding a fair amount of wood ash. Then, on your first spring visit to the dacha, you can only slightly loosen the soil and, making grooves, sow seeds in them.

By the way, rows of cabbage can be alternated with rows of relatively cold-resistant annual flowers: asters, phlox, godetia, etc. If you take a little risk, you can sow “Jolly Fellows” dahlias, marigolds, and salvia.

After sowing, the bed must be covered with plastic film. But it is better to stretch it at a height of 10–15 cm. Ideal for such temporary shelter are window frames with opening sashes, which were thrown away in large quantities during the boom in the installation of plastic windows. By nailing boards 10 cm wide or higher around the perimeter of such a frame, we get an excellent portable greenhouse.

It will not be too hot under such shelter, and there is no need to worry that the seedlings will stretch out. No, at home, one day of delay in lowering the temperature leads to the death of the seedlings. In open ground, when we arrive at the site next weekend, we may not see shoots yet, depending on the weather. Well, in another week the shoots will definitely appear; By then it will be warmer, the shelter can be removed.

For the first week, you can cover the crops with any available material.

In open ground, watering seedlings is almost never required: there are enough winter reserves of moisture in the soil. You just need to periodically loosen the soil between the rows and remove weeds. Feeding is advisable: the same as at home, in the phase of two true leaves and after another two weeks. There is no need to dive, but thinning is necessary: ​​in the rows you need to leave 6–7 cm between plants. You can plant seedlings in the garden bed at the usual time.

The advantage of open ground is enormous: seedlings never stretch out. She has enough light and it’s still not hot at all. No need to deal with sowing containers, carry boxes back and forth... Disadvantages? Well, actually, there aren’t any.

Benefits of using cassettes

Let's return to apartment conditions. While talking about individual pots, we completely forgot to discuss what they should be like. But gone are the days when housewives themselves rolled up something like cups from plastic film or paper. Now the most economical people collect plastic cups for sour cream, cottage cheese, etc. all year round. It is important that they are not too small: you need a volume of at least 200 ml.

Conventional cassettes are a box divided into cells

But it’s even more convenient to use so-called cassettes: in them, individual cups are combined into a common box-type matrix. They are easy to transport, but each bush in them lives in its own home, and the roots do not intertwine. And the most convenient thing is that they also have removable bottoms. Not entirely removable, but easily pushed out by pressing a finger along with a lump of earth and a bush of seedlings. Seedlings are removed from such cups easily and without damaging the root system. The relative disadvantage (they cost money) is compensated by durability: such cassettes last for many years.

And this is what individual cups with an easily retractable bottom look like: they are also placed in a common tray

Using peat tablets

Peat tablets are compressed peat with added fertilizers and, sometimes, growth stimulants. Available in various sizes: from 2.5 cm in diameter. Before use, the tablets are placed in a tray and gradually filled with plenty of water. Water is absorbed, the tablets grow upward (they are limited on the sides by braiding) and turn into cylindrical peat containers for sowing seeds. For the seed, a small recess is made in one of the ends.

Water tablets swell and turn into nutrient pots

For cabbage, you need to use tablets with a diameter of 4 cm. Just in case, 2-3 seeds are sown in each tablet, and then the excess plants are cut off. The tray with tablets is kept at room temperature and in the light until shoots appear. Then the temperature is sharply reduced and the seedlings are grown under normal conditions.

The tablets are watered “from below” by pouring water into the tray; the right amount of moisture is absorbed into the peat.

There is no need to fertilize: the tablet material contains a sufficient amount of nutrients. Diving when using tablets is not required, but if the roots begin to sprout and intertwine with the roots of neighbors, the seedlings along with the tablet will have to be transplanted into a larger pot with soil mixture. The convenience of using peat tablets is obvious. The only downside is that the tablets are relatively expensive, and it makes sense to buy them only in small quantities.

Features of growing seedlings in different regions of Russia

The technology for growing cabbage seedlings does not depend on the region: the recipes are quite standard. Naturally, the timing of sowing seeds and the location differ: in the south there is no point in sowing cabbage in apartment conditions, but in the north this often has to be done.

So, in the Moscow region, early cabbage seeds are sown at the end of March or beginning of April, and this can only be done at home or in a greenhouse. But late cabbage is sown in open ground as soon as the weather permits. In the Kuban, sowing in the garden is possible already in March, but in Siberia or the Urals - no earlier than the end of April. In the middle zone and in the south, hardening can be carried out before planting seedlings in open ground (this is a desirable stage), but in the Siberian region it is required.

In the southern regions (Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories, Astrakhan Region) in mid-March it is already possible to plant seedlings in open ground, so sowing seeds in an unheated greenhouse is possible in mid-February. In these regions, on the contrary, it is advisable to finish all things with cabbage in the spring: even adult plants cannot stand extreme heat. But in the conditions of, for example, the Leningrad region, late cabbage, sown as seedlings a little late, may not have time to form properly, so seeds are sown here in March or April, but greenhouse conditions are used for this.

If you observe the temperature regime, give enough light and water in moderation, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy. Unless, of course, some kind of infection was introduced with the soil. We have already discussed the issue of pulling out seedlings: if it has grown a few centimeters on the first day, it is better to throw it away. If the stretching is small, you can carefully add clean soil to the roots, lightly water it and immediately correct the flaws with heat and light.

The main danger for cabbage seedlings is black leg. Its first sign is blackening of the root collar, thinning of the stem, and then its drying out. At the first suspicion of a disease, diseased specimens should be carefully pulled out and thrown away, the soil should be watered with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and clean river sand should be carefully added to the roots of the remaining plants. An even more reliable remedy would be to transplant healthy plants into clean soil.

Seedlings that are sick with blackleg cannot be saved, but you can try to save neighboring, still healthy plants.

Sometimes seedlings take on an unnatural blue-violet hue. If this is not a characteristic color for the variety, most likely the color is associated with deviations from the regime. Perhaps there is simply not enough nutrition, and liquid feeding can correct the situation. Yellowing of seedlings may also be due to a lack of any nutrients or errors in watering.

Sometimes the leaves of cabbage seedlings become covered with small holes. There are several reasons, but only one serious one: perhaps the cruciferous flea beetle was brought with the soil. It can be destroyed in seedling boxes only by spraying with chemicals: for starters, you can try the relatively safe Bordeaux mixture or even ash infusion. It is not advisable to use harsher chemicals on seedlings.

Other pests of cabbage plants rarely affect seedlings, and if they are detected, it is necessary to study the relevant literature and use specific chemicals. But if the seedlings are clearly dying, unfortunately, nothing can be done. In most cases, the owner was at fault when he did something wrong. Well, sometimes - pests that accidentally arrived and were not noticed in time. Most often, seedlings die from blackleg. But when grown in open ground, seedlings almost never die.

In our next material you will learn about all the rules for planting bell pepper seedlings and the features of caring for them:

Growing cabbage seedlings is not difficult, unless you do it in a warm city apartment. Comfortable conditions for seedlings and their owner are radically different. But if conditions of good lighting and coolness are created, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy: other operations when caring for them do not require anything supernatural.