In this article you will find tailor tips for those learning to sew. Technology for sewing parts, how to rip seams correctly, how to make hangers with your own hands and others.

When ripping seams:
a) Use a ripper knife (knife for cutting loops).
b) Cut stitch by stitch, not in a row, but sequentially, through several stitches of the seam. You need to cut the needle thread, then the shuttle thread can be easily pulled out.
c) If the threads are difficult to distinguish on the fabric, rub them with a piece of soap that you use to cut the fabric, the stitches will become clearly visible.
d) To remove thread trimmings from the fabric, use adhesive tape (scotch tape) or a small brush.
e) When ripping a seam, the ripper knife should not slide between layers of fabric, as this can easily damage the threads of the fabric.
f) Before sewing parts again, iron them.

Sewing two parts with different cut shapes

When sewing parts, one of which has a straight cut and the other has a concave cut, use the following technique:
a) Stitch along the allowance of the concave piece next to the seam line (Fig. A).
b) Make notches along the entire allowance, reaching the stitching (but not cutting it). There should be enough notches so that the concave cut can be straightened into a straight line (Fig. B).
c) Fold the parts to be joined with the right sides inward so that the part with the notches is on top, pin and stitch, the stitching on the seam allowance can serve as a guide (Fig. B).

Sometimes, the edges of the overcast seam allowances form a ledge that is noticeable from the front side of the finished product (when sewing thick fabrics). In this case, it is necessary to perform stepwise trimming of the allowances, that is, trim them to different widths.
The seam allowance that is located closer to the front side of the product should be wider.
If the product part is processed with a gasket and adhesive fabric, then it is advisable to cut the gasket from the seam allowance to the stitching line; if this is not possible, then the allowance with the gasket should be made wider.

Stitching of facing parts

In overstitched parts with corners, before turning them out onto the front side, allowances in the corners should be cut off in order to obtain a clear, beautiful corner in the finished product. The following options are possible:
a) The angle is right, the stitching goes along both sides of the corner, then the allowance is cut diagonally (Fig. B), when turning out, the remaining allowances fill the corner of the part without excess fabric.
b) A straight angle, the stitching goes along one side of the corner, the other side of the corner is formed by a fold of fabric. In this case, the allowance in the corner is not cut off, because when turning the part out, the allowance fills the corner without excess fabric, forming a clear line (Fig. B).
c) The angle is sharp, the stitching goes along both sides of the corner, then the allowances are cut to such a size that when turned out they fill the corner without excess fabric (Fig. B).

Stitching rounded parts

In rounded seams:
a) The allowances of the concave seams are cut to the stitching (not reaching 0.1 cm) so that the stitching is not damaged, then when turning out, the sections of the allowances move apart and lie flat, without tightening the fabric of the top of the product. If this is not done, the seam in the finished product will be pulled together by a shorter cut of the seam allowance. The greater the curvature of the seam section, the closer the notches should be to each other (Fig. A).
b) Allowances for convex seams are cut out with teeth (not reaching 0.1 cm, so as not to damage the stitching) so that when turning out there is no excess fabric of the allowances, that is, the allowances on the wrong side lie flat, without waves visible from the front side of the product (Fig. B). This is conveniently done using scissors with a serrated cutting edge.

How to sew elastic tape from knitwear

Inexperienced tailors usually cut an elastic knitted binding for processing cuts in the transverse direction of the fabric (the direction of the weft). However, in this case, professionals adopt a direction of 5 degrees relative to the weft, at which such materials are formed.

1. If you don’t have a protractor, you can make a template from cardboard to determine 5° to the weft. To do this, lay a segment equal to 15 cm on the cardboard, designate its ends A and B. From point B, perpendicular to the segment AB, set aside 1.5 cm and designate point C. Connect A and C - this is the direction 5° to line A B (Fig. . A). Cut out the ABC template.
2. Place the template on the fabric so that side AB coincides with the direction of the weft (Fig. B).
3. Draw a line AC on the canvas and continue it to the required length - this will be the direction of 5 degrees to the weft.
4. Mark and cut out strips of the required length and width. If necessary, you can connect their ends with a seam in the longitudinal direction.

Making tucked cord with stuffing

An ordinary cord can serve as stuffing for a tucked cord, which will significantly improve the appearance of the latter.

1. Select an acrylic or cotton lace of the desired size. Take a piece of it twice as long as the tuck piece blank, plus 5 cm.
2. Cut out a bias strip of fabric of the required length and width so that it can be wrapped around the cord and at the same time there should be 2.5 cm allowances on both sides.
3. Place the cord on the strip from the front side in the middle so that at one end of the strip it protrudes 2.5 cm. Sew the cord to the other end, cross-stitching the strips with a tack.
4. Fold the strip so that the cord is inside it. Using a zipper foot, stitch the strip as close to the cord as possible, applying slight tension as you sew.
5. Trim the seam allowance to 3 mm, and if the fabric is loose - to 5 mm.
6. Holding firmly the end of the cord, which protrudes 2.5 cm from the fabric, move the fabric, pulling it over the other part of the cord and thereby turning the stitched strip to the front side, and the cord, now its other part, ends up inside the dart.
7. Trim off excess cord.

How to make shoulder pads with your own hands

It is better to buy shoulder pads ready-made in the store. But sometimes, with certain features of the figure or clothing model, it is advisable to sew shoulder pads with your own hands, individually. Let's consider one of the options for making shoulder pads.

1. Cut out two squares with a side of 15 cm from the trim, lining fabric or product fabric (depending on the required rigidity).
2. Cut out one square with a side of 10 cm from padding polyester or other similar material, fold it diagonally and cut along the fold. To make more voluminous shoulder pads, you can use several of these squares, reducing them layer by layer, trimming them from the short cuts.
3. Place a triangle of padding polyester inside a square of fabric. Quilt parallel to the fold in several rows. While quilting, you need to hold the shoulder pad convexly.
4. The sections are overcast or sewn with a regular stitch, and then the fabric is cut with scissors with serrated blades.
Triangular shoulder pads are suitable for set-in sleeves.
Raglan, kimono and dropped shoulder sleeves require raglan shoulder pads. They fit over your shoulders like caps and maintain a soft, round shape.

The second option for a shoulder pad for a set-in sleeve in the shape of a shoulder.
1. Fold the front and back patterns along the shoulder seam. Trace the armhole line between the front and back notches. The shoulder pad should end 1.3 cm short of the neck seam. Draw a shoulder seam line on the shoulder pad pattern. Label the front and back halves (Figure A).
2. Cut out the base of the shoulder pad from adhesive canvas or trim according to the pattern. Cover the parts from padding polyester (or thin foam rubber) - four layers, cutting each layer along the rounded edge 2 cm narrower than the previous one. The thickness of the shoulder pad should be 1.3 cm. If a different thickness is required, then add or reduce the number of layers, cutting them accordingly.
3. Sweep away layers of padding polyester. While basting, hold the shoulder pad convexly (Fig. B).
4. Place a shoulder pad made of synthetic padding over the pad and glue your adhesive canvas to the top, widest one (or sew a border) (Fig. B).

The thickness of the shoulder pads can vary depending on fashion requirements and the structure of the shoulders. If the shoulders are very sloping, add an additional one or even several layers of padding polyester. If the shoulders are high and spicy, then the shoulder pads are made thinner, down to one layer, quilted with a border. If one shoulder is higher than the other, then the thickness of the shoulder pads should also be different so that the shoulders in the product are at the same level.

When making a product, the shoulder pads must be ready before the first fitting, since the product must be tried on with the shoulder pads that will be used in this product, otherwise you will not be able to find the correct fit, since it is determined by the shape of the shoulders.

How to make a shoulder pad (raglan)

Raglan shoulder pads are cut in such a way as to ensure a smooth transition from the shoulder line to the sleeve. This can be done by making darts on an elongated shoulder pad pattern (oval shape) or by cutting them out of two parts and sewing along the shoulder line.

In cases where untested patterns are used for cutting expensive and easily damaged material (for example, leather), a preliminary mock-up of the model should be made. It is very convenient to use non-woven material for this purpose - not adhesive web or non-adhesive interlining. The details of the layout are connected with a machine basting stitch. They try on the layout, draw all the lines, but the cut will be changed. Next, the model is ripped apart and the main material is cut according to its details.

Making raglan shoulder pads.
In this case, it is better to use non-adhesive web than, for example, old fabric. Because parts made of fabric, especially old, worn ones, will definitely be deformed during all the manipulations: joining, trying on, ripping. The cut based on these details may be incorrect.
Non-adhesive web (as well as non-adhesive interlining) retains its shape and does not stretch in certain directions, so parts from it can be used as patterns.

Very often we come across shaped lines when parts are connected at a strict angle. If we are talking about knitwear or elastic fabrics, then minor errors can still be somehow corrected with the help of WTO. In the case, for example, with raincoat fabric, any inaccuracy will immediately lead to ugliness in the form of creases or tucks.
In this MK I will show you how to connect such parts to create a beautiful and neat corner using the example of the shaped lines of my freshly sewn jacket

So, we have 2 parts - one with a convex corner (gray), the other with a concave corner (yellow)


During the cutting process, you need to try to make the allowances on these parts exactly the same everywhere, mine is 1 cm.
We will sew these pieces together in 2 stages, all the way from the corner.
We begin to sew so that the part with the convex corner is on top. We precisely chop along one side of the corner, checking that the apex of both parts coincides

We stitch from the corner, trying to make the first puncture with the needle exactly at the top. We bring the threads to one side and tie the ends.

Next, we cut the allowance in the corner of the part with a concave corner (yellow), as close to the stitch as possible. We unfold our part, combining the allowances on the other side of the corner

And we start scribbling again from the corner but from the side of the piece with a concave angle, the first needle puncture hits the tip, i.e. the previous line. Don't forget to add a tack at the end.
We unfold our part, iron the allowances of the convex part to the concave side (if WTO is possible), do the stitching, we get a beautiful neat corner

Good evening everyone!
We are often asked how to make beautiful corners on tablecloths, napkins and curtains. It's clear! After all, everyone wants something beautiful. If an item is sewn beautifully and with high quality, then it looks very interesting and much more advantageous than something sewn anyhow.
Therefore, if you are interested in how we do this, then I ask under the cut: the technology is not very complicated. but there are certain tricks that we are happy to share with you

I will show you beautiful corner processing using the example of sewing a napkin, but as I said. Corners on curtains and tablecloths are processed in this way.

We usually make table napkins in sizes 35*35 or 40*40
and the hem on them is 4 cm in finished form. (This is actually not necessary. Using this principle, you can make a narrower hem)

To end up with a napkin measuring 40*40 cm, you need to add 8 cm to the hem from each edge: that is, a DOUBLE hem!!! I’ll explain why this is done: tablecloth or curtain fabric is quite dense. and if a small inner hem is made, then it does not stand out beautifully on the napkin. If the hem is done double. then the edge of the napkin is smooth and without any “bumps”.
So, we cut the edge side 40+8+8 cm=56 cm

1) fold the corner of the napkin diagonally (the angle is 45 degrees). On the fold we mark a point that is located at a distance of 8 cm from the edge (this is our allowance).
2) draw a perpendicular from this point at a right angle

3) on the drawn line we look for a point from which the distance to the edge will be equal to 4 cm (half of our hem)

4) stitch the corner from the fold of the fabric to the mark where the distance to the edge is 4 cm (point 3)

5) cut off the resulting corner at a distance of 5 mm from the seam.

5) straighten and iron the seam

6) turn out the corner

On the scale of the entire napkin it looks like this:

7) steam the folds 8 cm from corner to corner

And this is what we get:

8) now add a 4 cm hem

How to finish corners with bias tape? You will need the answer to this question when working on complex cutouts in women's and children's clothing, as well as when sewing home textiles: decorative blankets, napkins and panels, aprons and potholders.

Our master class will show in detail how to process corners with bias tape with your own hands quickly and accurately. It's not difficult at all! We will look at external and internal right angles.

How to trim corners with bias tape: basics and nuances

How to trim corners with bias tape yourself? Bias tape is a very convenient material for processing and finishing the edges of any product. You can purchase ready-made bias tape at your local sewing supply store. It comes in a variety of widths and colors, so you can find the bias tape that's right for your project.

However, making bias tape with your own hands is not at all difficult! We recommend using only your own bias tape in cases where it is visible from the front of the garment.

The bias tape is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to the grain of the fabric.

Most often it is 3 cm wide, but you can increase it at your discretion. The cut strip of fabric should be ironed in half lengthwise, and then both long sections should be ironed to this middle line. That's all!

Processing the corners with bias tape can be done with a finishing stitch on the front side or fixed manually with a hidden seam on the back side. We will show you how to make an internal corner with a machine stitch, and an external corner with a hidden seam.

So, let's learn how to finish corners with bias tape yourself!

External corner

Fold the bias tape right sides together to the edge of the piece. Sew, not reaching the edge, a distance equal to the width of the allowance. That is, if you sew a stitch at a distance of 5 mm from the edge (the future width of the finished edge), then you need to finish the seam 5 mm before the edge.

Pull the part out from under the needle. Fold the bias tape upward, exactly from the last stitch.

Lower the binding down as shown in the photo. Pin or clamp together.

Sew, starting the seam at the same distance at which you finished the previous one.

Hand sew the edge of the bias tape with a blind stitch. Also tack the corner seam. Iron.

Internal corner

Reinforce the area near the inner corner with stitching. Cut the corner with scissors almost to the stitching.

Align the binding right side to the right side of the product and pin, opening the corner so that the cuts form a straight line.

Fold the trim around the edges and pin them to the seam allowances. Carefully fold the corner.

How to beautifully make a corner on different fabrics

As a rule, stitching a corner does not cause any particular problems. For example, when sewing a bag or pillowcase and the like, this seems to be quite elementary. But everything has its own little tricks that, at a minimum, simplify this simple job. But if we are talking about a sharp corner... or a corner when sewing fabrics with batting or padding polyester... or on coat fabrics... - then the usual work sometimes gives a not-so-ideal result.

So, a few tricks on the theme of the corner. The material was found on an English-language website, link at the end of the post. I did the translation myself, removing extra details in places.

One of the common frustrations with sewing, especially if you're a beginner, is the nook. Those pesky 4 corners on a throw pillow or any other item that requires a square or rectangular shape can ruin your sewing desire for any home decor item. A spoiled corner, as luck would have it, will always be visible - and will spoil your mood.

The main thing when sewing a corner is to be precise. You must stop the sewing machine and turn the fabric exactly at the point where both seam allowances intersect.

The second secret to a beautiful corner is proper processing of the seam allowance.

This is what we'll talk about: how to create a beautiful corner and smooth edge,taking into account different angle options. Having studied this material, you will never be “cornered” by this very corner on pillows, curtains, bedspreads and other home fabric decor items.

A 90* angle or right angle is the most common angle.

These angles are of two types: internal and external. Both are sewn the same way but cut differently.

In most cases, when sewing home decor items, a right angle of 90* is used, but sometimes it is necessary to sew a beautifully sharp angle (less than 90*) - for example, when sewing a so-called gypsy pillow, or an obtuse angle (more than 90*) - when sewing a clutch or a fabric envelope for a gift card, for example.

By the way, please note: a very good idea for a gift is to put a gift card of your favorite store in such a stylish clutch handbag...)))))

In the works shown in the photo, red threads are used on white fabric - of course, this is for the clarity of the stitching, for greater expressiveness. When using threads that match the fabric, those minor defects that we get will not be visible. In addition, when sewing, the so-called. satin foot also for greater clarity of photo stages. For regular work, it is best to use a standard presser foot.

Sewing and finishing the outer right corner

1. On the wrong side of the fabric to be sewn, mark the allowances, and if on the smooth sides of the fabric the allowances can be marked with a dotted line with a wide step, then it is best to draw the corner directly, clearly, with the intersection of both allowance lines. This will allow you to clearly see the point where you need to stop the stitching and change the sewing direction.
   
2. Place the cut pieces right sides together and begin sewing along the seam allowance. Be prepared to stop EXACTLY at the intersection of the marked seam allowances.
   
   
3. We stop with the needle in the down position. Raise the presser foot, rotate it, lower the presser foot to its original position and continue sewing. A small nuance: When leaving the needle lowered into the fabric, do not lower it all the way down - optimally a little deeper than the hole for the thread. I read somewhere this advice from professionals: with such a needle depth, after turning, the machine will not skip the first, most important stitch, which often happens when the needle is immersed deeper into the machine mechanism.
   
   
4. When you have finished sewing, trim the seam allowance diagonally at the corner point. At the same time, be extremely careful not to damage the stitching thread. If this does happen, do not expect that the stitch will not unravel after turning inside out or that your defect will be invisible - everything will definitely be visible. Therefore, if the stitching thread is cut, you will have to repeat all the previous operations from the new marking of the allowance to the stitching with an indentation of a couple of mm. Of course, when sewing a pillow, these mm do not play a cardinal importance, but the shirt cuff or collar may have to be recut.
   
5. Once you have trimmed the seam allowance diagonally at the intersection point, trim further along each side at an angle from the point. This will ensure a sharp angle.
   
   
6. Turn the stitched piece right side out to see what your corner looks like. For perfect turning, use some kind of tool to carefully straighten the seam allowances in the corner - for example, a stick, a thick knitting needle, or a special turning tool, as in our photo.
   
   
7. If you left a little extra fabric in the corner when cutting on the diagonal and further, for fear of cutting off the excess, you will feel that this excess fabric has gathered in the corner like a knot. In this case, you will have to turn the product inside out and trim the allowances more carefully, as shown in photo 5.

Sewing an internal right angle

Stitch length option

Additional layers of fabric or padding

Various fabric thickness

Acute and obtuse angles

Example creation and tutorials: Jodi Kelly