Connecting an LED strip with your own hands? – There is nothing simpler! Selection of cable cross-section for connecting LED strip Cable for LED strip 12 volts.
With the advent of LED lamps, it became possible to make the lighting design of apartments and houses more diverse. And when they came up with flexible strips with small LEDs attached to them, which can glow in different colors and even change color smoothly, all that is required is imagination: connecting an LED strip is not a difficult task. Having performed the operation once, you can easily repeat it.
LED strips are single-color and universal - changing their color using the control panel
Types and types
Before connecting the LED strip, you should understand their types and markings. This way you won’t make a mistake when choosing a power supply and will accurately calculate the required glow intensity, tape length and other parameters.
Colors and types of glow
You probably noticed that LED strips differ in the type of glow. They are:
- Monochrome. They are assembled from SMD type elements and produce a specific color. The marking indicates the initial letter of the English spelling of the color:
- LED-W-SMD - white (can be tinged with blue or yellow, also called warm or cold light),
- LED-R-SMD - red,
- LED-B-SMD - blue,
- LED-G-SMD - green.
- Universal. They are marked RGB - they give different shades depending on the command from the control panel. Work in tandem with a controller and remote control.
The most popular in interior lighting are strips made of single-color—monochrome—crystals. The constant change of colors is too stressful and does not allow you to relax. This is illumination, not lighting. Therefore, universal tapes are used to create advertising, illuminate cars - where it is necessary to attract attention. When decorating interiors, SMD tapes are mainly used.
Degree of protection
Since the scope of LED strips is vast, the degree of protection varies. For dry rooms, regular open ones are available - without a protective coating. There are waterproof ones - they can be used in damp areas - in bathrooms, for example. They are filled with a layer of varnish. There is another option - moisture resistant. They are sealed in a sealed housing and can be mounted directly in the water - in an aquarium, pond or pool. They can also be used for outdoor lighting.
For exterior car styling, LED strips placed in a transparent polymer tube are most often used. It protects not only from moisture, but also from mechanical damage, but their cost is also higher.
LED sizes, brightness and density
Let's figure out the sizes. If you take several strips, you can see that they are made of LEDs of different sizes. In addition, they are sometimes located tightly next to each other, in some - at a fairly decent distance, and there are also strips with LEDs in two lines.
It is not difficult to distinguish the sizes of elements externally, but how can you tell by the markings? Dimensions are displayed in numbers that appear after the letters indicating the type of LED. For example, LED-R-SMD3528 (red) and LED-RGB3528 (universal) are assembled from elements measuring 3.5 * 2.8 mm, LED-G-SMD5050 (green) and LED-RGB5050 (universal) - 5.0 * 5.0 mm.
These are the two most common types, although there are larger ones - 56 * 30 mm, and smaller ones - 20 * 20 mm.
The larger the crystal size, the greater the light intensity they produce. For monochrome crystals the indicators are as follows:
- size 3.2 * 2.8 mm produces a luminous flux from 0.6 to 2.2 lm;
- size 5.0*5.0 mm - from 2 to 8 lm.
Universal LEDs of the same size have lower intensity: three small crystals of different colors are sealed in one housing, and therefore the RGB glow intensity is lower:
- 3.2*2.8 mm produces 0.3 to 1.6 lm;
- size 5.0*5.0 mm - from 0.6 to 2.5 lm.
All values are given for crystals without protective coating. Any of them reduces the intensity of the glow and this must be taken into account when calculating the brightness of the glow.
Length calculation
Above we talked about each individual LED on the strip, and there are many of them on the strip and they are arranged with different densities, and accordingly they can produce a stream of light of different intensities. The minimum number of crystals per meter is 30 pieces, the highest density in one row is 120 pieces/m, in two rows—240 pieces/m.
Depending on the number of crystals, the total intensity of the glow and electrical power consumption change. For the convenience of calculating the required lighting intensity and electrical parameters, the technical data is summarized in a table.
Power table of LED strips with different LED densities
Using this table you can determine how long the lighting strip is needed. For example, you want to illuminate the room with a medium-intensity glow. Two 80 W incandescent lamps need to be replaced. It is necessary to organize a luminous flux of about 140 W (two 80 W lamps will never give 160 W).
If for these purposes you take SMD3528 with a number of LEDs of 120 pcs/m, you will need about 5 meters of tape (we take it with a margin of 20%), SMD5050 with an installation density of 60 pcs/m will require 4-4.5 meters.
In general, LED strips are sold by the meter. It comes from the factory in 5 m reels and a piece of that length is not always necessary. Therefore, it is possible to cut off the required amount: along the dotted lines with the image of scissors. Strictly along these lines you can cut.
Cut the LED strip with scissors strictly according to the markings
If the scissors are not drawn, then there must be a dotted line. Also, the cutting line can be determined by the presence of contact pads on both sides of the line.
Connecting LED strip
Most LED strips operate on 12 V or 24 V. If there is only one line of crystals, 12 V is required, if there are two, 24 V. Any DC source that produces this voltage is suitable: battery, power supply, battery, etc.
To connect the tape to a 220 V household network, a converter or adapter is required (also called blocks or power supplies, adapters).
Recently, tapes have appeared that can immediately be connected to a 220 V network. They are all sealed in plastic tubes - 220 Volts is no longer a joke. They are also cut along the intended lines and connected using a special connector, which is inserted into the conductors. A cord with a built-in rectifier is connected to the connector (this is a diode bridge and a capacitor).
This tape differs from the usual one in that small sections (20 pieces) with LEDs are connected not in series, but in parallel, and also in such a way that the diodes are directed towards each other. Due to this, we obtain the required voltage of 220 Volts or so. The alternating current is converted to direct current using a diode bridge, and the ripple is damped by a capacitor.
In principle, such a tape can be assembled from a regular one, but you will need to take care of the insulation: touching an element connected to a household network without an adapter is fraught with serious consequences.
How to connect several LED strips
Each of the tapes, depending on the modules used and the number of elements per meter, consumes a different amount of current. The average parameters are given in the table. Knowing how long you want to mount the backlight, you can choose an adapter that will deliver the required current.
Sometimes the required length of the tape exceeds 5 meters - when it is necessary to illuminate the room around the perimeter. Even if the power supply can supply the required current, two or more five-meter strips cannot be connected in series. The maximum permissible length of one branch is the 5 meters that come in the reel. If you expand it by connecting the second one in series, a current many times higher than the calculated one will flow through the tracks of the first tape. This will lead to rapid failure of the elements. The track might even melt.
If the power of the power supply is such that several tapes can be connected to it, separate conductors are drawn to each of them: the connection diagram is parallel.
In this case, it is convenient to place the power supply in the middle, for example, in a corner, and two strips on either side of it. But it is often cheaper to buy several less powerful adapters than one more powerful one.
Connecting RGB strip via controller
First the power supply is connected in series, then the controller. They are connected to each other by two wires. There are already 4 conductors coming out of the controller, which are routed to the corresponding contact pads of the RGB tape.
Exactly the same as in monochrome tapes, and in this case the maximum permissible length of one line is 5 meters. If a larger length is required, then two bundles of wires, 4 pieces each, depart from the controller, that is, they are connected in parallel. The length of the conductors can be different, but it is more rational for the power supply and controller to be in the middle, with two backlight branches extending to the sides.
Connection methods
The connection of the LED strip to the power supply is serial. Therefore, we pay attention to the polarity: we connect “+” only to the same pole, and “-” to the minus.
At the end of the tape that comes on a reel, conductors are soldered. If the glow is monochrome, there are two conductors - “+” and “-“, for multi-color ones there are 4, - one common “positive” (+V) and three colored ones (R - red, G - green, B - blue).
But a 5-meter piece is not always needed. shorter lengths are often required. Cut the tape along the marked lines.
In the photo you see contact pads on both sides of the cut line. They are labeled on each tape, so it’s quite difficult to get confused when connecting. To make it even easier, use wires of different colors. It will be clearer this way and you definitely won’t get confused.
Connectors
You can connect the LED strip without soldering. There are special connectors for this. These are specially designed devices - plastic housings that ensure proper contact. There are connectors:
Everything is very simple: open the lid, insert a tape or conductors with bare ends. The lid closes. The connection is ready.
The method is very simple, but not very reliable. Contact is ensured only by pressure, and if the cap is loosened a little, problems begin.
Soldering
If you have any soldering skills, it is better to use this method. To work, you will need a soldering iron of medium power, with a thin or sharpened tip. You need rosin or flux, as well as tin or solder.
We strip the ends of the conductors from insulation and twist them into a tight bundle. We take a heated soldering iron, lay the conductor on the rosin, and warm it up. We take a little solder onto the soldering iron tip and warm up the wires again. The veins should be covered with tin - tinned. In this form, the conductors are easy to solder.
It is advisable to tin the contact pads in the same way: dip the soldering iron in rosin and warm up the pad. Make sure that tin does not leak beyond the pads. Take the prepared conductor, place it on the pad, and heat it with a soldering iron. The tin should melt and tighten the conductor. Hold the conductor in place for 10-20 seconds (sometimes it’s easier to hold it with thin-nose pliers or tweezers - the conductor gets hot), tug. He must hold on tight. Similarly, we solder all the necessary conductors.
On RGB strips with 4 wires, make sure that the pads do not connect during soldering. The distance between the contacts is very small, the slightest drip can ruin the whole thing. Proceed carefully.
Watch the process of soldering the diode strip in the video. You will need to repeat everything.
One of the biggest mistakes is the unreasonable choice of the supply voltage of the LED strip, power supplies and control units. This leads to additional financial and labor costs. Woe to the craftsmen (generalists), who once a year have the task of installing several meters of LED strip, love the voltage of 12 volts. When you ask them the question, why did you order a tape with 12V power? They start talking some kind of nonsense that this is a safe voltage or mumble about some kind of uniform standard. Most of them simply do not know about the existence of tapes with power supply 24V, 36V, 220V due to their narrow thinking and lack of necessary knowledge. In this article I will explain the optimality of choosing some tapes and the inappropriateness, and in some cases not the possibility, of choosing others. Let's start with the 220V power strip. It seems that everything is simple, stick it to the ceiling, plug it in and enjoy the light, there is no need to buy expensive power supplies, but these strips have serious drawbacks.
1. These ribbons are only available in a specific color. That is, I bought a diode strip with a red tint - the ceiling will be forever red. After a week, this shade will begin to irritate you.
2. Most 220 Volt power strips are not dimmable.
3. These tapes can only be cut into 50cm pieces.
4. The places where these tapes can be used are very limited due to the high voltage. Four points are enough for us to abandon LED strips with a supply voltage of 220V. We still have tapes with power supply 12V, 24V and 36V. Let's consider LED strips with a supply voltage of 36 volts.
I want to say right away that this voltage is considered the most optimal in terms of stability of the diode strip and saving money on cable products, control units, and installation. BUT, not every manufacturer produces this tape and control equipment. And those manufacturers that produce it have a very narrow range of choices. In the future, if the equipment (controller, power supply, amplifier, dimmer) fails, we may face the problem of their interchangeability. Therefore, unfortunately, we put the LED strip and additional equipment with a 36V power supply aside. We still have a tape with a supply voltage of 24V and a 12V, beloved by generalists and migrant workers. We will choose one of them using only numbers and facts. For example, let’s take one of the most popular white tapes, made with smd 5060 diodes, 60 diodes per meter (14.4 W). One will have a supply voltage of 24V, the other 12V. I want to say right away that their cost is the same. Let’s take the simplest ceiling perimeter, 20 linear meters.
Fig 1 Fig 2 
As we can see, we need to install 4 pieces of tape of standard length (5m). We power every 5 meters of tape with a separate cable (cord) from the power supply, as the installation and connection manual says.
Now let’s take our CALCULATOR and calculate the cross-section of the cable cores for a 24V tape: Enter the voltage in the first window - 24V. In the second window, enter the length of the cable (cord), approximately 6 meters. In the third window we enter the total power of 5 meters of tape 72W (14.4x5=72) Click calculate. The calculator gives a cross section of 0.75mm. A standard ShVVP 2x0.75 cord is suitable for installation. Now let's calculate the cross-section of the conductor for a 12 volt tape. Enter 12. Enter 6. Enter 72. Click calculate. The calculator gives a cross section of 1.5mm. Do you feel the difference? Also, all manufacturers of 12-volt tapes recommend powering 5-meter sections on both sides due to high currents. We take the previously selected SHVVP cord 2x0.75 and power the tape on both sides Fig. 2 Let's calculate the economic part:
1. Required quantity of SHVVP cord 2x0.75
a) for 24V tape = 15 meters = 225 rubles (for 2016)
b) for 12V tape = 46 meters = 690 rubles
2. Labor costs. Accordingly, to connect a 12V tape, the labor costs for laying more cable (cord) and connecting the tape on both sides have increased.
3. Suppose you decide to install a brightness control (dimmer). Almost all manufacturers produce universal dimmers; they are suitable for controlling 12, 24 and sometimes 36 volt strips. BUT, there is one pitfall here. For example, let's take one of the most powerful dimmers and try to apply it to our ceiling (Fig. 1 and Fig. 2)
Fig 1 
Fig 2 
I'll be very brief. If you power a 12V strip from this dimmer, then you can “pull” 240W out of it, and if 24V, then 480W. The total power of our ceiling is 288 W. Accordingly, to connect a 24V tape Fig. 1, one dimmer with a large margin is enough, but to connect a 12V strip, Fig. 2, you need to purchase additional equipment, a power amplifier.
And this is at least another 2000 rubles ($30 US)
Summary: there are no advantages to 12V tapes compared to 24V tapes. Disadvantages - at least 3. Therefore, for professional installation of LED lighting and backlighting, I reasonably recommend choosing strips with a supply voltage of 24 volts.
If you haven't found the answer to your question, please write it to us, the largest community of electricians
Today it is difficult to imagine any interior designed without high-quality LED strip lighting.
However, those who are faced with the choice and installation of such lighting for the first time often make mistakes at the very initial stage. Let's look at the most common of them.
Supply voltage
Often people buy a tape without thinking too much about its voltage. What the seller advised is what they take. And they are not always competent.
The most optimal option is to choose a 12 volt LED backlight. It has a number of advantages:
- a large assortment that is always available in many stores
You can easily find a replacement piece for a burnt-out backlight or a failed 12V power supply. However, there are also limitations here.
This tape is supplied in reels of 5 meters. They cannot be connected in series with each other. 
At 12 volts, over a long distance (over 5m), there are significant voltage losses. The current in the circuit increases and eventually the LEDs fail. 
Another advantage:
- this brand can be cut into small pieces of 5 cm
Thus, it is very easy to choose the optimal size according to the dimensions of the structure. 
In addition, such small pieces are easy to power directly from the battery, without any bulky voltage sources. 
Due to large voltage losses, the power source should be placed as close as possible to the beginning of the tape. If you do not have this opportunity, then choose 24 or 36 volt models.
The 220V LED strip also has a number of advantages and disadvantages. The advantages include the fact that it is supplied in a construction length of up to 100 m. 
This is very convenient when you need to highlight areas of the facade of a house, or some metal structures. 
On top of that, it initially comes in a sealed version. But its thickness in this silicone is also a disadvantage. 
It is not convenient to use such a tape indoors, as it will take up a lot of space.
In addition, a significant drawback is the fact that it can only be cut every half a meter. Well, the cost of high-quality copies will differ significantly from low-voltage models. 
Cheap LED strip
The most common mistake and problem is buying inexpensive lighting. Such copies will work properly for a maximum of 1 year.
After which, you will have to re-arrange it and additionally pay for both the product itself and the cost of the work. 
Therefore, you won’t be able to save money here. 
Selecting power supply power
When buying a power supply, many choose it with exactly the same power as the LED strip itself. This is fundamentally wrong.
If all your LED lighting has a power of 60W, then you cannot buy a power supply that is also 60W. You need to take it with a 30% reserve. That is, if the tape is 60-70W, feel free to take a 100-watt one. 
If you have a very powerful tape, or the backlight consists of many parallel sections, then you need to choose the appropriate power source. 
However, not many people know that units from 250W and more are often equipped with cooling fans. 
Order such products on AliExpress and only after unpacking the package will you discover a surprise.
Imagine installing it in your bedroom. For the first month it may work relatively silently, but in the future, such lighting will cause nothing but irritation due to the constant hum. 
Therefore, always pay attention to this seemingly insignificant moment. It is better to order 2 smaller pieces than one large one.
This will be a worthy alternative to a powerful unit with a fan. Connect half of the section from one, half from the other. 
Installation location
There is no need to hide power supplies in places where there will be no access after the repair is completed. 
We are talking about plasterboard-covered and suspended ceilings. The fact is that the power supply is the same consumable material as a lamp for any lamp.
And sooner or later it will have to be changed. In fact, the power supply is one of the weakest links in the entire backlight. Therefore, make sure you have access to it in advance.
Wires for connection
You can choose the ideal unit and buy a high-quality tape, but if you connect it with too thin a wire, you will not get a good result. How to correctly select and calculate the cross-section of power wires?
To do this, you can use two methods.
Selection by belt load
First, they must be copper. Secondly, in order not to study the table of correspondence between rated currents and suitable wire cross-sections (and it will not always be at hand), apply the universal formula.
For every 10A load, a copper wire with a cross section of 1mm2 is required.
This section will be enough for you with a reserve, and everything will work properly. How to find out how much current the entire backlight consumes? 
By simple calculation. Let's say you have an SMD 5050 with a voltage of 12V and a power of 14.4 W/meter. The total length of the entire LED backlight is 15 meters (3 pieces of 5 m each are connected in parallel to the block). 
For one 5 meter segment the power will be equal to:
P=14.4W/m*5m=72W
We divide this power by the voltage and get the current:
I=P/U=72W/12V=6A
It remains to divide the calculated current value of 6A by 10A, according to the universal formula, and we obtain the required wire cross-section for installation:
6A/10A=0.6mm2
The closest standard value would be a wire with a cross section of 0.75mm2. 
However, please note that this calculation is only acceptable if the tape is in close proximity to the power source.
If the block is hidden 5 m or more from the backlight itself, then it is advisable to use wires ranging from 1.5 mm2 or more.
Even though the calculation will give smaller values.
When you have RGB lighting, the total current that is obtained by calculating using the formula I=P/U must be divided into three channels (R-G-B). After all, you will connect each color with a separate conductor. 
Selection by block power
The second method does not rely on the power of the tape, but on the power of the power supply. 
According to it, the wires must be of such a cross-section that they can easily withstand 135% of the rated current that the power source is capable of delivering.
In addition to the normal operation of the backlight, no one has canceled possible short circuits. The unit's protection usually trips when there is an overload of 105% to 135%.
If the power supply has “Hiccup” protection, it will periodically turn off and try to turn on again. In this case, you will not burn the wires. The block will click and click until the short circuit is cleared.
There is another protection – “Constant current limiting”. Thanks to it, the output voltage will decrease until the current reaches an acceptable value.
But this value will be acceptable for the block, and not for thin wires!
And if your wire is too weak, it could cause a fire.
Wire brands
Recommended brands of wires for connection are ShVVP, KSPV, PuGV, acoustic wires. Just do not confuse connecting the tape and connecting the power supply. 
The power supply already requires a full-fledged electrical cable VVGng-Ls or NYM, through which 220V can be safely transmitted.
The use of acoustic or fire alarm wires here would be a gross mistake and violation.
Sealing tape
According to the degree of moisture protection, tapes are divided into 4 types:
- IP-20
They do not have a protective coating and can only be used indoors in dry rooms.
- IP-33
It has a double layer of varnish that protects from dust, but not from water. Can be distinguished by its characteristic shine. 
- IP-65
With protection against dust and jets of water.
Completely immersed in a silicone shell and have double insulation of wires.
They can be used in water to illuminate pools and aquariums. 
For indoor installation (furniture lighting, ceiling lighting in a bedroom, living room), some choose a sealed LED strip with IP65 protection. It is not completely in the silicone hose, but is simply spilled with sealant on top. 
This gives it protection from splashing water. People think it will be cool and convenient to dust it.
However, using such a model in a dry room will never justify itself. You will get more cons than pros.
In such rooms, especially during the winter heating period, low humidity is observed. And the sealant applied over the tape under such conditions tends to dry out quickly. 
In some cases, silicone will simply crumble like glass and crumble. And this silicone begins to “lead” when it dries.
It pulls the substrate along with it and the connections to the board break. The contact begins to disappear and the backlight goes out in places and does not burn evenly. 
No amount of repairs will help here. The whole thing will have to be changed.
And many people are unable to properly seal the sealing tape. It has its own nuances and features. 
The same silicone begins to turn yellow over time, which ultimately changes (contaminates) the color of the backlight. Checking the quality of silicone in a store is problematic. 
This effect (yellowing) will only appear after a few months. Don't forget about the smell that will invariably emanate from the sealant when the tape heats up.
Therefore, use sealing tape where it belongs - in wet areas of bathrooms, in the kitchen under the apron, near the sink. 
Polarity connection errors
Many people wonder what will happen if the LED strip is connected incorrectly? That is, reverse the polarity, plus and minus. 
Will it explode, catch fire, fail? No, nothing like that should happen.
Led strip consists of LEDs. And the LED, in turn, although light-emitting, is still a DIODE. 
A diode is a semiconductor that passes current in one direction, but not in the other direction if the polarity is changed. That is, in this case, your LED product simply will not light up.
Connected incorrectly - no light. Reverse the polarity and it will definitely light up.
However, remember that this only applies to the LED strip. 
If you reverse the polarity when connecting a controller or amplifier, then these electronic devices can easily fail.
Selecting the glow color
For some reason, few people pay attention to such an important point as the accuracy of color reproduction. The colors themselves are divided into:
- warm white
- neutral white
This is an artificial light source, which is a narrow flexible tape with conductors up to 5 m long, on which LEDs are installed equidistantly. The LEDs on the strip are divided into groups. Each group consists of several LEDs connected in series and is a complete circuit, which allows you to cut the tape crosswise into segments of any length that is a multiple of the length of one group.
LED strips
LED strips are produced monochrome, glowing in only one color (red, blue, green, yellow or white) and universal (R G B), the glow color of which can be changed independently using the remote control, including one of the primary colors or choosing any existing in nature .
It is also possible to turn on a mode in which the color of the LED strip will change smoothly over the entire range with a specified rate of change over time.
R G B LED strips
Based on the organization of light emission, R G B LED strips come in three types.
The first type of strip uses LED-R-SMD3528 or LED-R-SMD5050 (red), LED-G-SMD3528 or LED-G-SMD5050 (green) and LED-B-SMD3528 or LED-B-SMD5050 (blue) , soldered in threes side by side in repeating triads along the entire length of the tape. Changing the glow color of the tape is achieved by group changing the glow intensity of the LEDs of each color. Such LED strips are well suited for interior lighting in cases where the LEDs are hidden from human eyes. If the LEDs are visible, the color change will be less effective.
R, G and B LEDs of the SMD3528 series have a size of 3.5 × 2.8 mm 2 and emit a luminous flux from 0.6 to 2.2 lumens, depending on the color of the glow. LEDs of the SMD5050 series are larger in size (their size is 5 × 5 mm 2) and accordingly they shine brighter, the luminous flux is from 2 to 8 lumens, depending on the color of the glow. Therefore, by the size of the LEDs soldered on the strip, even without knowing the technical characteristics, it is easy to determine which of them will shine brighter.
The second type of strips uses R G B LEDs of the LED-RGB-SMD3528 or LED-RGB-SMD5050 series. A distinctive feature of these LEDs is that three LEDs are mounted in one housing - red, green and blue. Therefore, their luminous flux is much lower and is only 0.3-1.6 lumens for LED-RGB-SMD3528, and only 0.6-2.5 lumens for LED-RGB-SMD5050. But due to the fact that the color emitters are located practically at one point, high efficiency of color gradation is achieved.
More recently, a new type of LEDs WS2812B (has four pins) and WS2812S (has six pins) have appeared. In terms of geometric dimensions and appearance, these LEDs do not differ from LED-RGB-SMD5050. However, thanks to the installation of the WS2811 PWM controller in the WS2812 LED housing, it became possible to control each of the LEDs installed on the LED strip personally using just two wires.
Thus, designers have the opportunity to change the glow color of any section of the tape, regardless of its length, at their discretion. The widespread use of LED strips based on WS2812 LEDs is hampered by the high price and the need to use an expensive specialized controller. Without supplying a control signal from the controller to the WS2812 LED, it will not light.
LED strip marking
LED strips are marked by all manufacturers, as a rule, according to a single international standard. The protection class in the marking is indicated in accordance with the requirements of the standard for the protection of electrical equipment from external factors IEC-952.
| Reference table for LED strip markings | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Serial number of the alphabetic or digital sequence in the marking | Designation in marking | Explanation of the designation | ||
| 1 (light source) | LED | Light-emitting diode | ||
| 2 (glow color) | R | Red | ||
| G | Green | |||
| B | Blue | |||
| RGB | Any | |||
| CW | White | |||
| 3 (type of pins on the chip) | SMD | Leadless chip for installation directly on a printed circuit board | ||
| 4 (geometric size of the light source body) | 5050 | in the example 5 mm×5 mm | ||
| 5 (number of LEDs per meter of length) | 60 | pieces | ||
| 6 (class of protection from external factors) | IP | The protection class in the marking is indicated in accordance with the requirements of the standard for the protection of electrical equipment from external factors IEC-952 | ||
| 7 (first digit after IP, protection against penetration of solid objects) | ||||
| 0 | No protection | |||
| 1 | From penetration of bodies with a diameter of 50 mm or more | |||
| 2 | From penetration of bodies with a diameter of 12 mm or more, a length of no more than 80 mm | |||
| 3 | From penetration of bodies with a diameter of 2.5 mm or more | |||
| 4 | From penetration of bodies with a diameter of 1 mm or more | |||
| 5 | Dust may enter in quantities insufficient to disrupt the operation of the equipment. | |||
| 6 | Dust is not allowed | |||
| 8 (second digit after IP, protection against liquid ingress into the housing) | 0 | No protection | ||
| 1 | From vertically falling drops of water | |||
| 2 | From water drops falling at an angle of 15° | |||
| 3 | From water drops falling at an angle of 60° | |||
| 4 | From water splashing from any angle | |||
| 5 | From a stream of water sprayed from any angle | |||
| 6 | From a strong jet of water (100 l/min, 100 kPa) | |||
| 7 | From water ingress when immersed to a depth of up to 15 cm | |||
| 8 | From water ingress during prolonged immersion | |||
Let's consider, for example, how the marking of the LED strip LED-CW-SMD-5050/60 IP68 is deciphered. LED - LED strip, CW - white light, SMD - made on the basis without output LEDs, 5050 - LED housing size 50x50 mm 2, 60 - 60 LEDs are installed on one meter of strip length, IP68 - in terms of protection level, the strip is designed for long-term operation depth (for example, to illuminate an aquarium or pool from the inside).
If the IP parameter is missing in the marking, then the LED strip does not have any degree of protection, that is, the degree of protection corresponds to IP00.
Resistance of LED strips to moisture
Based on the degree of protection from moisture, LED strips can be divided into three categories: moisture-proof, moisture-proof and moisture-resistant.
Moisture-proof ones can only be used in dry rooms where there is no high humidity. Waterproof ones are intended for use in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms, bathhouses, building facades, where direct contact of water with the tape is excluded).
Moisture-resistant tapes are designed to work directly in an aquatic environment, such as an aquarium, and can be placed for illumination on the bottom of the pool.
The photo shows an LED strip completely sealed with silicone, so the LEDs and resistors are reliably protected from water. Waterproof LED strips can be used without restrictions for outdoor advertising, lighting decoration of streets and buildings. When choosing a waterproof tape, it should be taken into account that part of the light flux is lost when passing through the silicone layer.
For outdoor decorative lighting, there are special LED strips called Duralight, which belong to the waterproof category.
Density of placement of LEDs on the strip
The brightness of the LED strip depends not only on the type of LEDs installed, but also on their number. The unit of measurement is considered to be the number of LEDs installed per meter of strip length. The more LEDs there are, the naturally greater the luminous flux will be. Typically, the number of LEDs per meter of strip length for 12 V LED strips ranges from 30 to 120 pieces. For LED strips designed for a supply voltage of 24 V, the number of LEDs can reach up to 240 per meter of length; in such strips the LEDs are placed parallel in two rows.
But we must take into account that the more LEDs per meter of LED strip length, the more powerful the power supply will be required and the more expensive the purchase will be. The choice of this parameter must be approached from the position of “necessary and sufficient”. For example, there are 30 LEDs per meter of tape, therefore, the distance between them is 3.3 cm, which is quite sufficient in the vast majority of cases.
Selecting an LED strip based on luminous output
The main lighting characteristic is the intensity of the luminous flux, which is expressed in lumens per meter (lm/m). The amount of luminous flux is determined by the type and number of LEDs installed on one meter of strip. Knowing the type of LEDs and their number, it is easy to independently determine the luminous flux.
For example, on a meter of white light LED strip there are 30 LEDs of the LED-CW-SMD3528 type (size 3.5 × 2.8 mm2), each having a luminous flux of 5 lm. We multiply 5 lm by 30, we get 150 lm. This luminous flux is emitted by a 10-watt incandescent light bulb. If the strip is made on the basis of 30 LED-CW-SMD5050 LEDs (size 5 × 5 mm 2), already having a luminous flux of 12 lm, then 12 × 30 = 360 lm, which is equivalent to using a 24-watt incandescent light bulb. Everyone has experience in using incandescent lamps, therefore, using the above method, it is easy to determine the type of LEDs installed on the strip, their number and the length of the strip. And if the length of the tape has already been determined, then perform the reverse calculation.
Let's do the reverse calculation using a specific example. You need to make ceiling lighting in a room measuring 5 mx4 m. The perimeter of a room of this size will be 5+4+5+4=18 meters. You want to create soft and not very bright lighting. If you use incandescent lamps, their total power will have to be about 200 watts, the luminous flux from which will be 3000 lm (15 lm × 200). The length of the tape should be equal to the length of the perimeter of the room, that is, 18 meters. To determine the luminous flux that should be emitted by one meter of LED strip, you need to divide 3000 lm by 18 meters. This turns out to be 166 lm/m. For our case, a strip with 30 LED-CW-SMD3528 LEDs per meter of length is suitable. The calculation was made without taking into account losses due to reflection from the ceiling, and they are at least 50%. Therefore, to guarantee room illumination, you need to choose a tape with twice the luminous flux. There are two options, either take a strip with 30 LEDs LED-CW-SMD5050, or LED-CW-SMD3528, but in the amount of 60 pcs. on the meter. The first option is preferable, as it will provide a guaranteed supply.
For R G B and monochrome LED strips, the calculation is performed in exactly the same way as for white strips.
LED strips are not always marked, which makes calculations difficult. But it is very easy to find out the technical parameters of an LED strip if you use the data given in the reference table. Modern LED strips typically use three types of LEDs: SMD3014 (super-bright) 3.0 mm × 1.4 mm, SMD3528 2.8 mm × 3.5 mm and SMD5050 5.0 mm × 5.0 mm. Therefore, by the size of the LEDs, you can determine what type of LEDs are sealed on the strip. By counting the number of LEDs per meter of length, using the reference table below, you can obtain data on the technical characteristics of the LED strip.
Table of main characteristics of LED strips
for voltage 12 V
Using the table, it is easy to select the type and length of the LED strip - analogous to incandescent light bulbs. For example, to replace one 80 W incandescent light bulb with an LED strip, you need to take 8 meters of SMD3528 (30) or two meters of SMD3528 (120) or SMD5050 (60) LED strip.
| Main technical characteristics of LED strips for 12 V voltage | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LED type | LED size, mm 2 | Number of LEDs per meter of LED strip length, pcs. | Power consumption of one meter of LED strip length, watt | Luminous flux per meter of LED strip length, lm | Equivalent incandescent lamp power, watt |
| SMD3014 super bright | 3.0×1.4 | 60 | 6,0 | 600 | 40 |
| 120 | 12,0 | 1200 | 80 | ||
| 240 | 24,0 | 2400 | 160 | ||
| SMD3528 | 3.5×2.8 | 30 | 2,4 | 150 | 10 |
| 60 | 4,8 | 300 | 20 | ||
| 120 | 9,6 | 600 | 40 | SMD5050 | 5.0×5.0 | 30 | 7,2 | 360 | 24 |
| 60 | 14,4 | 720 | 48 |
How to connect an LED strip to the mains
Connecting the LED strip to the vehicle's on-board network
LED strips are ideal for direct connection to the vehicle's on-board network. The main thing is that the tape matches the supply voltage to the voltage of the vehicle's on-board network. For passenger cars, you need to choose a waterproof tape designed for a supply voltage of 12 V, for trucks - for 24 V.
What voltage is the battery installed in the car for, this is the voltage you need to take the tape for. When connecting the LED strip to the vehicle's on-board network, it is necessary to observe the polarity; the strip has the symbols “+” and “–”. If the polarity is reversed, then nothing bad will happen, the LEDs will just not light up.
Connecting the LED strip to a 220 V household power supply
Unlike electric lamps, LED strips cannot be connected directly to a 220 V household electrical network. They require a DC supply voltage of 12 V or 24 V. The supply voltage is indicated on the strip along its entire length. To obtain the required voltage, voltage converters are used.
While there is no established terminology, they are called differently: drivers, adapters, converters, power supplies, power supplies. All these words refer to one device that converts 220 V AC mains voltage into DC voltage of the required value, for tapes depending on the type, 12 V (often used) or 24 V (rarely used, usually in RGB tapes).
To select a power supply for an LED strip, it is important not only the value of the constant voltage at the output, but also the amount of current that it can supply to the load. To select the appropriate power supply for a particular case, you need to find out the total amount of current that all installed LED strips will consume.
An example of calculating a power supply for an LED strip
For example, let’s select a power supply unit (PSU) for the LED strip that we selected above for ceiling lighting. Typically, the current consumption of a tape meter is indicated in the accompanying documentation, but if there is none, then it is easy to perform the calculation yourself. It is enough to multiply the number of installed LEDs by the current consumption of each of them.
We chose an LED strip with installed LEDs of the LED-CW-SMD5050 type, the length of the strip is 18 meters, and there are 30 LEDs per meter of length. The total number of LEDs is 18×30=540 pcs. One LED-CW-SMD5050 LED (according to the reference table) consumes a current of 0.02 A, therefore the total current consumption of the entire backlight will be: 540 × 0.02 A = 10.8 A.
But we did not take into account that the LEDs with a strip supply voltage of 12 V are connected three in series through resistors, therefore the calculated current must be reduced three times: 10.8 A / 3 = 3.6 A. But in one LED-CW-LED housing SMD5050 contains three elementary LEDs, so the resulting current must be multiplied by 3. That is, the resulting current will be 10.8 A. As a result of the calculation, it was determined that a 12 V power supply with a permissible load current of up to 10.8 A is required.
To calculate the power of the required power supply, you need to multiply the voltage by the current: 12 V × 10.8 A = 130 W, it turns out that you need a power supply with a power of 130 W. For reliable operation of the power supply, a 20% power reserve is required. As a result, a 156 W power supply will be required. In practice, you can use any power supply that meets the necessary requirements.
Design and installation of LED strip
On a flexible plastic tape up to 5 m long there are thin copper conductive tracks of the required configuration. LEDs of the SMD3528 or SMD5050 type and current-limiting SMD resistors of the P1–12 type with a power of 0.125 W are soldered to the tracks. Please note that the designation of an LED is based on its size, for example SMD5050 has a size of 5.0 mm x 5.0 mm. With a supply voltage of 12 V, three LEDs connected in series and one or more current-limiting resistors are installed. The number of resistors is determined depending on the amount of power dissipated on them. The resistor can be installed anywhere in the circuit; in the diagram it is located on the positive side, you can also install it on the negative side or between any LEDs.
Electrical circuit and wiring diagram
LED strip segment
Resistor markings
The resistor is marked with the number 151. This means that the resistor value is 150 ohms. The markings are easy to decipher. It is indicated by a three-digit number. The last digit in the number tells how many zeros should be added to the first two digits. For example, the resistor is marked 153, which means you need to add 3 zeros to 15, we get 15,000 Ohms.
For clarity, I have provided an eclectic wiring diagram below. A complete LED strip circuit consists of a large number of such circuits connected in parallel. With a supply voltage of 24 V, the number of LEDs connected in series in the circuit can reach up to 10 pieces. Pay attention to the markings of the LEDs, on the side connected to the cathode (minus), the corner of the LED body has a cut. Bottom right corner of the photo.
Connection and fastening of LED strips
The side of the strip opposite the LEDs has an adhesive layer protected with film. In order to secure the tape to the surface, it is enough to remove the protective film and apply the sticky side to the installation site. When organizing lighting using LED strips, often a length of 5 meters is excessive, so it is possible to cut the strip into pieces. The places where the tape can be cut are indicated by the image of conventional scissors and the cutting line. The step of cutting the LED strip into segments is determined by the number of LEDs connected in series. Near the cut line, there are contact pads on both sides that allow you to solder wires to them in case of splicing strip sections together. You need to solder very carefully with a low-power soldering iron.
Next to the contact pads there is a marking for the connection polarity and the supply voltage. There are special clips that allow you to connect LED strips together without soldering.
Conductors for connecting to the power supply are usually already soldered to one end of the LED strip. To connect monochrome tapes, two wires are required, for RGB tapes - four wires: black (the common one is connected to the positive terminal) and three color ones. The length of the wires is no more than half a meter, and if the power supply cannot be installed next to the LED strip, then the conductors will have to be increased to the required length.
LED strips are indispensable when you need to provide lighting or illumination over a long length. Only LED strips that are not protected from moisture can be cut into pieces, that is, only those that are intended for indoor use. It is unacceptable to cut waterproof and moisture-resistant LED strips without subsequent sealing.
To eliminate this drawback, LED modules have been created that allow interior lighting and illuminated advertising to be carried out easily, quickly and reliably. The scope of application of LED modules in practice is limited only by human imagination. Modules for lighting in a car are especially convenient. It is enough to connect it via a fuse to the on-board network and glue or secure the module with self-tapping screws inside the car interior or on the outside.
The design of LED modules consists of a shallow bed made of plastic or metal in which a printed circuit board with LEDs is installed. The top of the board is filled with transparent silicone. This ensures protection against moisture and splashing water. The LEDs are connected in the same way as in the LED strip above.
On the outside of the bottom of the crib there is a sticky layer, which can be opened by removing the protective film and the module can be fixed on any flat surface. It is possible to attach modules to the eyes using self-tapping screws. All lighting and electrical calculations given above on the page for LED strip are also valid for LED modules.
Rectangular LED modules are sold in the form of blocks; in the photo there is a block of 20 modules.
The modules can be easily separated from the block one by one or in groups. Electrically, all modules are already connected to each other. It is enough to supply power to any outermost one and the LEDs on all modules will light up. Blocks can be increased in any quantity by connecting them in parallel.
About choosing the wire cross-section for connecting LED strip
An LED strip consumes little power, and the current consumption for a strip length of one meter, even the brightest SMD5050 (60), is no more than 1.2 A. Therefore, you don’t have to think about the cross-section of the wire when connecting such a piece of strip; almost any available voltage will do. stranded wire by hand.
But when connecting an 18-meter long LED-CW-SMD5050(30) strip, which we selected to illuminate the ceiling of the room above, you should seriously think about how the total current consumption will be 10.8 A. Unfortunately, I didn’t find it anywhere, what current is allowed along the copper path of the tape itself. But, knowing the power consumption of one meter of LED strip and the supply voltage, I calculated the amount of current that LED strips of different lengths of popular types would consume, and summarized the results in a table.
| Reference table for current consumption of LED strips at a voltage of 12 V | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LED strip type | Number of LEDs per meter of LED strip length, pcs. | Current consumption (A), LED strip length: | ||||
| 1m | 2 m | 3m | 4 m | 5 m | ||
| SMD3014 | 60 | 0,5 | 1,0 | 1,5 | 2,0 | 2,5 |
| 120 | 1,0 | 2,0 | 3,0 | 4,0 | 5,0 | |
| 240 | 2,0 | 4,0 | 6,0 | 8,0 | 10,0 | |
| SMD3528 | 30 | 0,2 | 0,4 | 0,6 | 0,8 | 1,0 |
| 60 | 0,4 | 0,8 | 1,2 | 1,6 | 2,0 | |
| 120 | 0,8 | 1,6 | 2,4 | 3,2 | 4,0 | |
| SMD5050 | 30 | 0,6 | 1,2 | 1,8 | 2,4 | 3,0 |
| 60 | 1,2 | 2,4 | 3,6 | 4,8 | 6,0 | |
Since LED strips are produced with a maximum length of up to 5 meters, the manufacturer must provide the required cross-section of the tracks that can withstand the current consumption of the LED strip, and you can take its value as the basis for developing a wiring diagram for connecting the LED strip to the power source.
Based on economic considerations, the load current margin of the tracks does not exceed 20%. Therefore, it is not permissible to connect all four of our strip sections in series, soldering the end of one section with jumpers to the beginning of the next LED strip, since a current three times higher than the permissible one will flow through the conductors of the strip connected directly to the power supply.
This will lead to overheating of the first tape, which can lead to its failure, and a weak glow of those switched on behind it. Therefore, it is necessary to connect each strip separately directly to the output of the power supply using a double wire with a core cross-section of at least 0.5 mm2. Below is a typical diagram for connecting LED strips to a power source when organizing room lighting by installing LED strips along the corners of the ceiling behind the eaves.
Since one power supply is designed for a current consumption of 6 A, we had to use two identical blocks, each powering half the length of the backlight. The switch connects both units simultaneously. If you use a double switch, you can turn on the tapes in sections. By connecting parallel sections of the tape to the power supply, you can turn them on individually or all at the same time, changing the lighting design. RGB strips are connected according to exactly the same wiring diagram. Only instead of two wires, 4 are laid. One common and one for each color.
If one powerful power supply is installed at a considerable distance from the strips, then it is advisable to stretch a couple of thick wires from the power supply to the LED strips. You can select the required wire cross-section for a given current using the table. For example, in our case, with a current of 10.8 A, you will need a wire with a core diameter of 1.6 mm (cross section 2.0 mm 2). Place the distribution box and, using thin wires, connect the tapes through the terminal block or by soldering to the incoming wire from the power supply. In each specific case, an individual decision must be made based on the boundary conditions.
Powerful power supplies usually have large dimensions, and it is often more advisable to use several less powerful units, placing them in close proximity to the LED strips.
Very often you can see that the facades of shops and the front sides of houses are decorated with bright flashing multi-colored lights that perform an advertising or decorative function. A variety of color designs can be achieved thanks to such material as LED strip, which can be of different sizes and take any shape. In addition, it is capable of reproducing various pre-programmed lighting effects.
The tape is based on a flexible strip along the length of which LEDs are located. They are connected to each other in a parallel-series circuit by flexible electrical tracks, thanks to which the tape can be cut into pieces of 3 or 6 diodes, depending on the voltage. Possible cutting lines are marked on each tape. Next to them there are special areas for connecting wires.
Double-sided tape is usually glued to the inside of the tape, which greatly facilitates its installation and fixation to the desired surface.
There is a huge number and variety of LED strips in the construction markets. They can differ: by the type of glow (cold or warm light), by color characteristics (one color or a combination of different colors), and also by the number of LEDs per meter (this parameter affects energy consumption and light output).
How to connect an LED strip at home
Currently, LED strips 5 meters long are widely used. They can be easily extended or, conversely, cut into pieces of the required length, up to several centimeters. The tape bends easily and takes on absolutely any shape, therefore, in addition to installation on the facades of houses and shops, it is also used in home interiors. With its help, suspended ceilings, kitchen lighting, as well as aquariums, terrariums, etc. are decorated.
Each strip is characterized by the number of LEDs per meter of length. This parameter must be indicated in the labeling. Therefore, it is worth considering that the more LEDs there are per linear meter, the greater the light output and, accordingly, the power consumption. The LEDs themselves can be arranged in one row or in two. Also, they can be coated with varnish or silicone, or without any protection at all.
LED strip power supply comes from direct current with a voltage of 12 V or 24 V. Therefore, when choosing a tape, a prerequisite is the purchase of a transformer that will lower the voltage when connected to a standard network. Its characteristics are selected in accordance with the declared power that the LED strip will consume. Basically, it is 12 V or 24 V.
As mentioned above, for each type of tape there is a certain declared power, calculated per linear meter, which is indicated in the passport. Depending on these data, the necessary power supply suitable for these parameters is selected. If the length of the tape turns out to be significantly longer, then it must be cut into several parts and each of them connected to a separate transformer.
In order not to make a mistake with the parameters of the power supply when choosing it, you need to know the full power of the tape connected to the network. Markings with technical characteristics are indicated on the reel. Power consumption directly depends on how many diodes will be located on one meter of tape.
For example, if you think about how to connect LED strip SMD LED 3528, then you should know that the density of LEDs on it can be: 60, 120 or 240 (pieces per meter). In this case, the power consumption will be: 4.8 W/meter, 9.6 W/meter, 19.2 W/meter, respectively.
In this case, if we have 5 meters of 3528 tape with 60 diodes per meter (300 pcs per reel) and a voltage of 12 V, then we will need a power source: 4.8 x 5 = 24 W. It is advisable to choose a power supply with a margin of 25-30%, so the optimal solution would be a device rated at 36 W.
What should you pay attention to before connecting the LED strip?
1. Tape length.
Initially, it is necessary to calculate the total length of the place where the tape will be mounted. Here it is necessary to take into account in advance that cutting it can only be done at certain distances, depending on the number of diodes.
2. Observe polarity.
Unlike heating devices and incandescent lamps, the LED strip is a semiconductor device, therefore, when connecting it, polarity must be observed. But don’t be afraid to connect it to the network incorrectly. Nothing will happen to the tape - it simply won’t turn on, so you can safely change the connection of the power wires.
3. Cutting the tape.
It often happens that it is necessary to connect only a small part of the tape to the network, and not all 5 meters, as in a standard reel. In this case, it is cut at a place previously marked on it. Typically, a cutting line is drawn every three LEDs. This is due to the fact that they are parallelized in series in groups of three.
Of course, if you cut the tape not along the line pre-designated by the manufacturer, nothing bad will happen, and a couple of diodes that have an open circuit will simply not light up.
4. Connecting pieces of LED strip
The connection of two pieces of tape is carried out using soldering. There are special contact pads near each cutting line. Before soldering, they must first be cleaned and tinned. Next, each pad at the end of one part of the tape must be connected to a similar pad at the other end, using wires with a diameter of no more than 0.5 mm2.
Cut the tape at the indicated location. Let's take an example of how to connect an LED strip using soldering. Let's say there are three pieces of tape that need to be connected.
First you need to get to the contact pads; to do this, remove the silicone coating on the tape (available only on sealed copies). After this, we solder the wires to these pads.
Also, there are LED strips that are connected to each other without soldering, but using special connectors - connecting connectors. We will talk about this in one of the following articles.
This is what the connector looks like when closed. It turns out very neat.
The place where two pieces of tape are joined by soldering
We connect all three pieces in series
Connecting LED strip to 220V network diagram
After selecting the power source, you need connect the LED strip to this source.
1) Scheme: one power supply - one standard length tape
Typically, a standard LED strip is sold wound on a 5-meter reel. At its outer end there are short wires for connection. If there are no wires, then you need to solder them yourself. To do this, we take stranded wires of different colors (red - “+”, black - “-”), measure them along the length so that they can reach the power supply and strip them on both sides.
Using rosin and tin, we tin the wires and solder them to the tape tracks. This procedure must be performed with a low-power soldering iron and as quickly as possible, so as not to damage the LEDs with increased temperature.
It is advisable to install NShVI lugs on the free ends of the wires. With their help, you can achieve better contact with the terminals in the power supply. Here it is worth considering that to crimp the wire into the lug, a special tool is needed, which is used by electricians.
Soldering areas must be properly insulated using heat-shrinkable tubing. Next, the LED strip must be connected to the power supply.
2) A circuit with one power supply and two tapes (the power of the unit is designed for such a load).
Consider the following option: you need to install and connect an 8 meter long LED strip. It is very difficult to find a solid 8-meter piece, because... the standard size is only 5 meters.
In this case, there is only one way out - leave one piece 5 meters, and cut 3 meters from the second and connect them. To do this, you need to find a line along which to cut the tape with ordinary scissors. Next, you need to close the broken circuit with wires using soldering (this technology was given above).
After the wires are soldered and both pieces of the LED strip are ready, you can begin connecting.
There are options when you need to connect to one power supply a large number of LED strips that are located at different distances from it (for example, illumination of a store window or simultaneous illumination of several pictures hanging at different distances).
To do this, it is not necessary to pull wires from each section to the power supply. You can lay one main line and connect LED strips directly to it.
Errors when connecting LED strip
The article discussed how to connect a standard LED strip to a network (usually it is 5 meters long). Often, two or more of them need to be connected. Here, most people make the main mistake; they simply connect the two ends of the tape directly and it turns out to be one 10-meter tape. This turns out to be an incorrect connection diagram and it is absolutely forbidden to do this.
The problem lies in the fact that it was chosen incorrectly, and the wires connecting the diodes are of a very thin cross-section, which are designed exclusively for one product. By connecting several tapes in series, the resistance increases significantly.
This leads to the fact that the second and subsequent parts will burn much dimmer. In addition, a significantly increased current from the rated current will flow through the first connected strip, therefore, heat transfer will increase and the LEDs will fail faster.
As has been proven more than once, such a connection reduces the service life of the tape by several times. Therefore, try to use the correct connection diagram.
