Holes in cabbage leaves - what does an experienced gardener need to know? Cabbage leaves in a hole - why? What to do? These remedies will help. What to do if there are holes in the cabbage.
Good day to all readers!
Lady cabbage is grown in all gardens. It is important to notice the appearance of diseases in time, and the photo and description in the article will help with this and recommendations for treatment will be immediately given. And now
Cabbage diseases with description, treatment and photos
A common fungal disease. The optimal conditions for its occurrence are high air humidity and low ambient temperatures.
The greatest damage occurs at the end of the growing season and during storage of the crop. Frozen, beaten or cracked heads of cabbage are most susceptible to damage.
You can determine the appearance of the disease in the garden or in the field. Slime appears on the outer leaves of heads affected by white rot. These leaves must be removed immediately. The affected head will completely rot during storage and infect neighboring ones. They also need to be isolated.
The main measure to combat white rot is strict adherence to crop rotation.
- Cabbage should be returned to the plot no earlier than after 3 years, or better yet, later.
- Premises intended for storing cabbage are disinfected.
- The required temperature in the storage is 0 +1°C.
Kila
Clubroot is the main enemy of all types of cabbage. This fungal disease most often occurs in overly wet soil. Infection occurs after planting seedlings in a permanent place. Symptoms appear gradually. First, the leaves begin to fade slightly. Later the leaves die and the plant stops growing.
Growths appear on the roots of clubroot-infected cabbage, which turn brown and die along with the roots. The nutritional process is disrupted and the plant dies.
After the cabbage dies, pathogens of the disease enter the soil from the resulting swellings. The disease can affect cabbage at any age, especially actively growing seedlings.
- Diseased plants are not treated; they are removed and burned.
- The soil in the vacated area is disinfected with Bordeaux mixture or formaldehyde.
- In the next 4-5 years, it is not advisable to sow any cabbage in this place.
- The likelihood of clubroot can be reduced by adding colloidal sulfur powder (5g per 1 m2) to the soil.
If an infection is detected during the active growth season, all diseased plants must be removed, dried and burned. The remaining plants are hilled up and watered. The aisles in the beds and row spacing are thoroughly cleared of cruciferous weeds. All work must be performed with separate equipment, which must subsequently be disinfected.
After harvesting, it is necessary to carefully remove all residues from the beds, leaving nothing behind.
Then dig up the soil, embedding beet tops into it. The fungus that causes clubroot remains in the soil for up to 7 years.. During this time, cabbage or cruciferous salads cannot be grown in the infected area. The sown areas can be occupied by other vegetables - clubroot fungus does not affect them. But it is not recommended to plant root crops in this area.
Kila- a disease characteristic of soils with high acidity; it does not occur on alkaline soils.
To combat this disease they produce:
- soil liming,
- abundant watering,
- hilling seedlings.
When planting seedlings in a permanent place, it is good to pour a glass of lime milk prepared from 800 g of lime - fluff and a bucket of water - into the prepared hole. This will increase the alkalinity of the soil and prevent disease.
Another point in the fight against clubroot is soil disinfection. It is necessary to sow it with vegetable crops that kill the causative agent of the disease. These can be nightshade (tomato, pepper, eggplant), lily (onion, garlic), goosefoot (spinach). The best combination to improve soil health in one season is tomatoes + garlic.
After all necessary measures to improve the site are completed, the soil is tested for the presence of the disease pathogen. Early ripening cabbage is planted on the plot and its condition is monitored throughout the season. The area is considered healthy if no swelling is found on the roots.
Signs of the appearance of blackleg on seedlings are rotting of the lower part of the stem and darkening of its surface. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus. The disease occurs during the appearance of cotyledons.
The main danger of blackleg is that the infection spreads very quickly from a diseased plant, infecting healthy ones. In affected plants, individual sections of the stem dry out and the root collar becomes thinner.
What causes the disease?
- The fungus that causes this disease is found in the soil, where it came from cabbage plants infected the previous year.
- The development of the disease is facilitated by increased acidity levels and high soil moisture.
- At risk are seedlings that are densely sown and overfed with nitrogen fertilizers.
What to do?
- You can get rid of soil pathogens of blackleg by disinfecting the soil with hot water and a solution of potassium permanganate (1%).
- Pre-sowing seed treatment with Planriz or Fundazol is also effective.
- A diseased plant cannot be treated; it is removed from the garden bed, burned, and the remaining soil is treated with potassium permanganate.
The causative agent of fusarium wilt or cabbage yellowing is a fungus. Early varieties of white cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Peking cabbage or cauliflower suffer more from this disease. Yellowness reduces the quality and yield of these crops.
The appearance of the disease can be seen by wilting and yellowing of the leaves. Then the leaves fall off. What remains is a bare trunk with a rosette of leaves at the top. Under the influence of infection, the development of the plant stops and the head does not set.
Infection occurs through the root system. This is facilitated by moderate heat (not higher than +18°C); prolonged lack of moisture provokes the onset of the disease.
The disease cannot be treated. To prevent the infection from spreading further, the diseased plant along with a lump of earth is removed from the site. The remaining soil is shed with potassium permanganate or copper sulfate.
Another disease that affects cabbage heads during storage. Spores persist in crop storage areas with high humidity.
Furry mold or black spots appear on a diseased head of cabbage.
To prevent the disease:
- limit watering to the required amount,
- nitrogen fertilizers are applied in recommended quantities,
- promptly remove old tops and remains of diseased plants,
- Before storing the crop, the premises intended for storing the crop are disinfected.
A scattering of small black spots on cabbage leaves appears due to cabbage heads being infected by the cabbage mosaic virus. This disease occurs on many types of cabbage and other cultivated plants. When symptoms appear, all heads of cabbage with similar spots must be removed. The disease is incurable.
For prevention, it is necessary to destroy weeds on the site and in the beds between the rows. Collected cabbage remains must be buried to a depth of at least 0.5 m.
Harmful insects, carriers of viruses - aphids and mites - are destroyed with chemicals.
Downy mildew or downy mildew
The causative agent of downy mildew persists on seed coats and plant debris in the greenhouse where cabbage seedlings were grown.
The development of the disease begins at +20-22°C. Planting seedlings in the open air stops the development of the disease, but the fungus that causes the virus retains its viability.
As days warm and humid, the outer leaves become covered with reddish-yellow spots. The fungus remaining on the leaves creates its own mycelium, as a result of which yellowish spots with a gray coating of fungal spores appear on the leaves. Affected leaves die.
The fight against peronosporosis using agrotechnical methods comes down to cleaning up the remains of cabbage plants after harvesting heads of cabbage and creating optimal conditions in greenhouses where cabbage is grown.
You can free the seeds from downy mildew pathogens if you treat them with planriz before soaking or soak the dry seeds in hot water at +50°C for 20 minutes, after which they need to be quickly cooled in cold water for at least 3 minutes.
The fight against blight on seedlings is carried out with TMTD (thiram) solutions or planriz.
Mucous bacteriosis of cabbage
The causative agent of the disease is a bacterium that can infect cabbage during any period of growth or storage. Most often this occurs during storage or transportation, when the storage temperature is elevated.
The disease occurs in two variants. The outer leaves may rot first. They acquire a mucus-like structure and emit an unpleasant odor. Gradually the entire head of cabbage begins to rot. The plant dies.
In cauliflower, the disease manifests itself in the form of rotting of the head. It stops growing and rots completely.
In another scenario, the stalk rots first. The bacterium gets there through damage left by insects or from the ground. The inner leaves become creamy and soften.
Possibilities of disease contribute:
- excessive doses of nitrogen-containing fertilizers,
- non-compliance with crop rotation,
- lack of agricultural technology,
- prolonged wet weather.
Prevention and control measures:
- grow varieties and hybrids resistant to this disease;
- fight pests throughout the season;
- observe crop rotation;
- disinfect storage facilities before storing crops;
- observe the storage regime;
- disinfect seeds before sowing or use factory-treated ones;
- Before planting seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse, the roots of the seedlings can be treated with 0.1% Phytobacteriomycin.
The causative agents of vascular bacteriosis enter the plant with the help of pests or during rain. The disease can occur at any stage of development.
First, the edge of the leaf turns yellow, and a corner appears clearly on it. In the damaged area, the leaf veins turn black and a mesh appears. If you cut the leaf crosswise, you can see blackened vessels. Subsequently, the affected leaves become dark brown in color and die.
At the next stage of disease development, signs of the disease may appear on any part of the leaf. Damaged leaves fall off, the growth and development of the head of cabbage is suspended, and there is no harvest.
The bacterium can remain viable on plant debris, seeds and soil for up to 2 years.
Prevention and control measures:
- use varieties and hybrids resistant to vascular bacteriosis for planting;
- return cabbage plantings no earlier than after 3-4 years;
- promptly remove weeds from the site, especially cruciferous plants;
- timely protect crops from pests;
- Use disease-treated seeds. As a treatment, you can use 25g garlic puree per glass of water. Soak the seeds in the infusion for about 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly before planting;
- Before planting, dip the roots of the seedlings in a mixture of mullein, clay and 0.4% Fitolavina-300 solution;
- treat the seedlings on the leaves with a 0.2% solution of “Fitolavina-300”;
- Diseased plants can be treated in the early stages by spraying with a 0.1% solution of the drug “Binoram” (3 ml per 1 liter of water) and treating the soil under the plantings with the same solution.
Video about clubroot and cabbage bacteriosis
Cabbage is a very delicate vegetable, but now you are armed with knowledge about cabbage diseases with detailed photographs, descriptions and methods of treatment and prevention.
I wish everyone a healthy harvest!
Sincerely, Sofya Guseva.
Other useful articles.
There are not so many hunters who want to feast on fresh and appetizing heads of cabbage, but, much to the regret of summer residents, it is difficult to remove them. Slugs and snails, caterpillars, flies and cruciferous flea beetle annually add a lot of worries to avid gardeners. But before you go to the store for chemicals, you should familiarize yourself with more environmentally friendly and affordable means of protecting areas.
Cabbage pests and their control photo. Cruciferous flea beetle
There are several methods, they can be used together or separately. Before treating cabbage for pests, carefully study each method to choose the most accessible and suitable one.
Before spraying cabbage against pests, you need to find out what exactly is affecting your area. You can then use the advice of our gardening experts to protect your crops. Put the acquired knowledge into practice, and caring for cabbage beds will no longer cause problems.
Various cabbage pests and viral diseases to which it is susceptible can completely deprive you of a full harvest
Cruciferous flea beetles. Beetles or larvae gnaw depressions and holes on cabbage leaves, after which severely damaged leaves begin to dry out.
How to fight: If possible, plant cabbage early, destroy weeds in time, and plant cabbage seedlings on a cloudy day. Frequent spraying of seedlings using the sprinkling method is useful, because flea beetles multiply much faster in hot and dry conditions. It’s not bad if tomatoes, onions, and garlic are planted next to cabbage. If fleas appear, early in the morning the cabbage is sprayed with a solution of tobacco, wood ash, tomato or garlic.
Solution No. 1: Add one glass of garlic, minced through a meat grinder, and one glass of stepsons and tomato leaves or potato tops, also ground in a meat grinder, to a bucket of warm water. The resulting mixture is thoroughly stirred, filtered, one tablespoon of soap is added and sprayed. Use 1-1.5 liters of solution for each square meter, and the temperature of the solution should not be lower than 22°C.
Solution No. 2: In a bucket of water, take 500 g of dandelions (leaves and roots), minced or finely chopped. Stir everything well, add one tablespoon of liquid soap, filter the solution and spray it in the mornings and evenings at the rate of one liter of solution for each square meter of bed.
Solution No. 3. You can also treat young shoots with the following solution: 1 cup each of fluff lime and wood ash (be sure to sift), mix well and pour the mixture into a double layer of gauze to pollinate the plants.
Cabbage fly
- from mid-May to the end of June, she lays eggs on the ground near the stem or on the stem itself, from which larvae hatch after 6-7 days. They eat the roots, gnaw holes in them, destroying the plant. The cabbage fly causes the greatest harm to seedlings, as well as early cabbage planted in open ground.
How to fight: If you notice a cabbage fly, you need to sprinkle the soil around the seedlings or cabbage planted in beds with a repellent mixture: 100 g of wood ash, 100 g of tobacco dust, 1 teaspoon of ground pepper. After pollination, the soil around the plants must be loosened to a depth of 2-3 cm, such loosening should be carried out every 3-4 days.
Treatment with a tobacco solution gives an excellent effect in the fight against cabbage fly (200 g of tobacco is poured into 10 liters of hot water, one tablespoon of soap is added). The cooled solution is filtered and the plants and soil are sprayed.
Slugs and snails.
These polyphagous pests cause harm by damaging not only the above-ground, but also the underground parts of cabbage. You can find out that plants are really damaged by these pests by the nibbled leaves and by the traces left behind - silvery drying mucus.
How to fight: For a liter jar of wood ash, add two tablespoons of table salt, two tablespoons of ground pepper (any red or black), two tablespoons of dry mustard. This entire mixture must be mixed thoroughly. On a hot sunny day, use the resulting mixture to pollinate the ground between the plants and immediately loosen the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm, because it is at this depth that these and other pests hide during the day. Slugs and snails that end up on the soil surface after loosening dry out and die.
In the evening, on the same day, the second treatment of the plants is done. For this purpose, a half-liter jar of wood ash is mixed with a tablespoon of dry mustard or ground pepper, the mixture is thoroughly mixed, sifted and poured into a gauze bag, the plants are pollinated. These procedures must be done twice, with an interval of 5-6 days.
Aphid- This is a small sucking insect. During the period of mass reproduction, aphids feed on the sap of the leaves, causing the plant to stop growing, the leaves are deformed, becoming dome-shaped. Aphids settle on the underside of leaves, flowers, ovaries, young shoots and stems. Aphids multiply especially quickly in warm weather.
How to fight: per bucket (10 l) take one glass of wood ash and shag or tobacco dust and 1 tablespoon of mustard and liquid soap. Pour all this with two or three liters of hot water (80°C), mix well, after a day add cold water to the bucket, filter the solution and spray the plants. Plants are treated on the underside of the leaf, where aphids mainly accumulate. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 6-8 days.
You can also use this solution: take 2 cups of wood ash for 10 liters of water, add a tablespoon of soap. Plants are sprayed with this solution when aphids have just settled on the leaves and there are only a few of them. If it has settled thoroughly on the leaves, it is more effective to apply the treatment with this solution once: two tablespoons of karbofos are diluted in 10 liters of water. Plants should be sprayed in the afternoon, towards evening, at the rate of one liter per square meter. m area. The treatment is carried out using a sprayer; after treatment, the bed is covered with plastic wrap for 2 hours.
Cabbage scoop and cabbage white
. The cabbage cutworm is a gray moth. The butterfly lays eggs on the underside of the leaves, from which green caterpillars hatch, eat through not only the leaves, but also the heads of cabbage, leaving a dark green discharge. The cabbage butterfly is a white butterfly with black spots on its wings. She also lays eggs on the underside of the leaves, from which caterpillars also hatch and eat the cabbage leaves.
How to fight:
Spray the plants with a solution of wood ash (two cups of ash and one tablespoon of liquid soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water).
In addition, you need to inspect the leaves every day, collecting eggs and caterpillars.
You can also water the plants with this solution: dilute two tablespoons of mustard, two tablespoons of table salt, one teaspoon of ground red or black pepper and one tablespoon of soap in 10 liters of water.
It is useful to constantly loosen the soil while slightly hilling the bushes. The area with cabbage can be covered with a fine-mesh net; pests (butterflies, aphids, moths, etc.) will not penetrate through it and the cabbage will grow healthy. This mesh does not interfere with the penetration of moisture and light; it does not need to be removed when watering. Temporarily, during the period of intensive reproduction of these pests, you can cover the cabbage with lutrasil.
Kila. This is one of the common diseases of cabbage and it is often severely affected by this disease. Signs of the disease: bubbly swellings form on the roots of the cabbage. Diseased plants begin to wither, the leaves turn yellow and the plant dies. This disease is mainly found in damp, acidic soils.
How to fight : regularly carry out liming of acidic soils (add 300-400 hectares per square meter of plot every 3-4 years). If this disease is detected, cabbage should not be planted in its original place before five years later. Dear summer residents, never grow seedlings in soil taken from garden beds. It is better to take turf soil for seedlings from places where perennial plants grow.
If, however, you notice that clubroot appears while tying the forks, immediately increase the fertilizing recommended for white cabbage.
Mucous bacteriosis
– this disease affects cabbage when the heads of cabbage are set. At the same time, the leaves and heads of cabbage begin to turn yellow, they become slimy, and an unpleasant smell of rot appears. The heads of cabbage are not ripe and fall off.
How to fight : strictly adhere to agricultural technology and carry out a set of measures to combat pests that spread putrefactive bacteria. During growth, cabbage must be watered with a solution of potassium permanganate and pollinated with wood ash.
Downy mildew
- fungal disease. This disease destroys seedlings, starting from the appearance of cotyledon leaves. Small, yellowish, oily spots with a gray, floury coating appear on the leaves. Usually the disease stops after planting diseased seedlings in open ground.
The appearance of this disease is promoted by increased soil and air humidity, as well as watering plants with cold water.
How to fight: seeds before sowing for 20 minutes. it is necessary to warm it up in hot water at a temperature of 50°C, then cool it in cold water for one to two minutes.
If signs of this disease nevertheless appear, then the seedlings are sprayed with the following solution: dissolve one tablespoon of copper sulfate and one tablespoon of liquid soap in 10 liters of water. The same treatment must be done 20 days after planting the seedlings in a permanent place.
Often the stem of young seedlings at soil level becomes thinner and darker, the seedlings wither and die - this disease is called "blackleg". To combat the disease, seedlings are temporarily stopped from watering, treated with a manganese solution and sprinkled with ash, or ground coal, or chalk on the affected part of the stem.
From cabbage
By following these simple techniques for controlling cabbage pests and diseases, you are guaranteed to get a good harvest of this valuable vegetable.
I wish you excellent, guaranteed in any weather!
- — spunbond;
- - ash, tobacco or road dust, ground red pepper;
- — tops of tomatoes or potatoes;
- - garlic;
- - laundry soap;
- - vinegar.
In most cases, the formation of holes in cabbage indicates a pest attack on the crop. Carefully examine the leaves of the plant - if you see tiny dark blue, black or striped bugs, then urgently take measures to destroy them, because these insects are cruciferous flea beetles.
It’s worth noting right away that fighting pests is much more difficult than preventing their occurrence, so if you have cabbage beds that have not yet been attacked by these insects, then cover them with spunbond during the period of control.
Since cabbage leaves have good absorbent properties, it is best to carry out processing using folk recipes as a basis. For example, you can dust the plants with ash, dust or ground pepper. To do this, you need to add 30 grams of liquid soap to a bucket of water and spray the cabbage with this solution. After wetting the crop, it must be powdered with any of the above products. Take a small sieve, place the selected product in it and shake the container over each plant.
The procedure must be repeated every 3-5 days for two to three weeks.
An infusion of tops and garlic has proven itself to be effective against cabbage flea beetles. You need to chop two or three heads of garlic, pass an armful of potato or tomato tops through a meat grinder and fill everything with a bucket of water. Leave the product to infuse for two to three days, then strain, add a little laundry soap (up to 50 g), mix and spray the cabbage, trying to wet each leaf well.
The procedure must be repeated twice a week until the insects completely disappear.
A cheap and simple folk remedy for cruciferous flea flea is a weak solution of vinegar (50 ml of 70% essence per bucket of water). Treating cabbage with this composition repels many pests, which is why many gardeners use it to this day.
There is a proverb: “No mouth can live without cabbage.” Indeed, there are many cabbage lovers. And among those who grow it, and among the so-called parasites, whom we used to call pests. In this article I will talk about those cabbage pests that I had to fight in my garden.
Cruciferous flea beetles
These are small black bugs that are difficult to see right away. But they chew holes in cabbage leaves. Now they are clearly visible, and from them you can determine the presence of this pest on cabbage. As a rule, cruciferous flea beetles attack young, immature plants that have tender leaves. First of all, seedlings and types of cabbage such as Beijing, Mizuna and Savoy are affected.There are different ways to protect plants from this pest. The surest way is to cover the seedlings with some material. For example, agrofibre, or place a plastic cup over each plant.
You can sprinkle the cabbage castings with ash. It is better to do this on wet leaves or use a soap solution that has a gluing effect.
As regards agrotechnical protective measures, it should be noted that cabbage cannot be grown in places where there were already beds with cabbage or other plants belonging to the cruciferous family.
You can plant plants next to the cabbage that repel flea beetles. These can be the following plants: dill, fennel, carrots and other sharp-smelling plants.
Underground pests
These pests include cockchafer larvae, cabbage fly and fall armyworm larvae, as well as mole crickets.They do their dirty work underground, you can’t see them, and only when the plant withers do you begin to understand that someone is spoiling its roots.
It is usually difficult to save such plants, even if you dig it up, catch and destroy the pest. You can, of course, treat the plant with a preparation that stimulates root formation and plant the plant again. But it will still lag behind its healthy neighbors in development.
The first place in the fight against all larvae must be given to thorough
soil treatment, proper storage of humus and compost.
Slugs and snails
If holes with uneven edges appear on the cabbage leaves, the size of which is quite impressive, then snails and slugs must be blamed.
You can fight them like this:
- Place bait between the plants. These can be trays with syrup, kvass or beer. Overnight, many pests will gather in them, and they can be destroyed.
- Sprinkle mustard powder, crushed eggshells or spread nettles between the rows. Slugs will feel uncomfortable crawling on such a prickly covering, and they will be afraid to “walk” there.
- You can treat the plantings with a solution of ammonia. To do this, dilute 40 ml of ammonia with 6 liters of water and pour this solution over the cabbage directly over the leaves. After a few minutes, when the slugs begin to crawl out from under the leaves, water the cabbage again. This is in order to completely destroy the pests.
- You can use hot pepper or even ordinary pharmaceutical brilliant green for spraying. 1 bottle of brilliant green in a bucket of water, and water the beds with this solution.
Caterpillars
Everyone knows this picture. White butterflies hover merrily over the cabbage. Only for gardeners there is no fun in this. Because after some time, the entire cabbage will be “populated” by small voracious caterpillars. They can leave only rough streaks of cabbage. And then the picture will be completely sad.It is necessary to fight this scourge already when butterflies have appeared above the cabbage and are looking for places to lay eggs.
Some gardeners hang eggshells over their cabbage beds, hoping that this will be a warning to butterflies that the place is occupied. I don't really believe in this method. It seems to me that a more effective way would be to plant cabbage beds with flowers such as marigolds, nasturtiums and pyrethrum. They repel pests with their smell, and make the beds more elegant.
If the caterpillars do appear, then you can deal with them as follows:
- Treat the cabbage with infusion of onion peels or tomato tops
This infusion should be prepared as follows: add 1 liter jar of husks to 2 liters of hot water, leave for two days, add 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and spray the plants.
- Treat the cabbage with ash infusion. To do this, mix 2 cups of ash with 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and dilute the mixture with a bucket of water. Leave for a day and spray the plants.
- But here is the biological method. You need to dilute the jam and sprinkle the plants with syrup. Wasps will fly in and destroy the caterpillars, because wasps feed their offspring on caterpillars.
Whitefly
Small white butterfly. It leaves larvae on the underside of the leaf.
The leaf appears deformed and spotted. And when you touch it, little white midges fly away.
The way to fight is quite simple. You need to spray the cabbage with water and then
loosen the soil around the plants. You can also wash damaged leaves.
