Choosing a method for heating a greenhouse in winter. The better way to heat a greenhouse Large heated greenhouse

27.08.2023

The motivation for building a heated greenhouse varies. It is needed for year-round cultivation of vegetables. And also to extend the period of cuttings of garden plants and successful wintering of young seedlings. The purpose for which a winter greenhouse is built directly affects the method of its heating, the degree of illumination and a whole range of technical characteristics. In this article we will look at how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands using the example of a polycarbonate structure. We will also consider in detail the methods of heating it.

Types of winter greenhouse heating

Before you build a winter greenhouse with heating, you need to calculate how long a certain temperature should remain there. If the greenhouse is used for growing mother plants and their further cuttings in January-February, then it is enough to bring the temperature in the greenhouse to +10 ºС. To grow vegetables, you will need at least +20 ºС. Based on this, it is worth choosing the most cost-effective heating method. Let's look at a few basic options.

Advice: if you only need to increase the temperature in early spring, when there are no severe frosts, then the “old-fashioned” method will do. Fresh manure, pure or mixed with sawdust, is placed under a 20 cm layer of soil. Warm water is poured over the soil from above and covered with a film. When rotting, the temperature of the manure rises to 60 ºС. This process lasts 4-6 months. and warms the ground and the air above it quite well.

Electric method of heating a winter greenhouse

Since electricity is one of the most expensive heating methods, it is only suitable for small greenhouses that have high tightness and, preferably, thermal insulation of the foundation.

The most popular electric heating systems

Heat gun. It consists of a heating element and a fan. Efficiency depends on the power of the device. The greenhouse heats up very quickly, and thanks to the fan, warm air is distributed evenly. But it is worth considering that the air coming out is very hot and it must be placed away from the plants.
Electric convector. The air in the greenhouse will heat up more slowly, but oxygen will be retained. It will be more comfortable to work in such a room. Air enters it from below and, when heated, exits from the upper section. Therefore, when growing plants, it is recommended not to set it very high. The disadvantage is high energy consumption. Pays for itself only in commercial greenhouses.

Fan heater. These inexpensive household heaters are perfect for small greenhouses. It is approximately enough to heat one greenhouse measuring 3x6 m. The flow of warm air is more narrowly directed, unlike a convector. But thanks to its mobility, it can be placed in any place and rearranged if necessary.

Advice: when using these electrical appliances, you must remember that if there is insufficient power or a small number of them, the heating of all the air in the greenhouse may be uneven, which will greatly affect plant growth. In addition, by warming the air, they have virtually no effect on the ground temperature.

Warm floor system in a winter greenhouse

Even heating from below is the best way to maintain uniform soil and air temperatures in the greenhouse. In addition, such a system can be equipped with an air temperature sensor. Which will help automatically maintain the set temperature. It is not difficult to organize a warm floor in a greenhouse.
First, a layer of soil is removed to a depth of 30-40 cm. Non-woven geotextile material (lutrasil, spunbond, etc.) is laid on the bottom and a layer of sand 10 cm is poured. Leveled and compacted.

Advice: if there is a risk that moles can damage the floor, then lay a protective mesh as the first layer, even before the geotextile.

Then the insulation is placed. It is best to use moisture-resistant boards. For example, penoplex (it is better not to use polystyrene foam, mice spoil it).
Next is a layer of waterproofing. The cheapest is plastic film. And there is a chain-link mesh on it.
On top there is again a layer of sand of 5 cm. It must be carefully leveled and compacted. A waterproof cable is laid out on it. It is positioned serpentinely with a distance of 15 cm.
5 cm of sand is poured on top and a chain-link mesh is placed. All that remains is to pour in fertile soil.

Stove method of heating a winter greenhouse

Almost all summer residents have the incomparable stove “potbelly stove”. This inexpensive way to warm up a room is often used in greenhouses. With relatively inexpensive fuel, it warms up and maintains the temperature in the greenhouse for a long time, even in winter, up to 20 ° C.

Advice: old and modern stoves are heated with wood, scrap wood from pallets, and even shavings. The last 2 types of fuel are offered in abundance free of charge in any city. And in addition to heat, the output is wood ash - a storehouse of microelements for plants.

The disadvantages include the following:

heating will always be uneven. The stove will be much hotter. In this case, no air exchange will occur. Therefore, either it is placed at a distance from the plants, or a fan is installed next to it;
open fire is used - and this is a fire hazard. It is required to follow safety precautions and not place fire-hazardous objects nearby;
you have to constantly add fuel, which means you have to constantly be near the greenhouse.

Tip: stove heating is also suitable for heating the soil. To do this, pipes from the stove are laid underground. Passing through them, warm air heats the soil and, rising upward, heats the air.

Water heating for a winter greenhouse

Water heating of a greenhouse can be done natural or forced:

natural- when water is heated in the boiler, its volume expands. And it independently flows through the pipes to the radiators. The pipes are installed at an angle;
forced- the system contains a pump that circulates heated water cyclically;
but the greatest effect when heating a greenhouse in winter can be achieved by installing dual circuit system. In this case, one circuit is the pipes of a warm water floor, which are placed under the soil, and the second circuit is radiators for heating the air. This significantly accelerates the growth of plants, creating a favorable microclimate for them, when it is warm both at the roots and under the roof of the greenhouse. In addition, by equipping the system with a thermostat, the temperature will be maintained automatically.

Infrared heating of a winter greenhouse

This heating method has several advantages:

heating of the air begins very quickly, almost immediately, at the moment of switching on;
you can purposefully warm up a certain area with plants;
works silently;
has a large selection of fastening methods;
No oxygen is burned during operation. And the absence of a fan eliminates the formation of dust, which has a detrimental effect on the plant, when settling on the leaves;
the air does not dry out and high humidity remains in the greenhouse. Which, in turn, creates a favorable microclimate for planting;
The presence of thermostats will make it easy to select the desired temperature;
due to the fact that IR heaters do not have mechanical moving elements, the service life without repair is very long, even with round-the-clock use;
their compactness makes them convenient for use even in small greenhouses or greenhouses;
IR heaters belong to the fireproof class of equipment.

What difficulties will you encounter when choosing this method of heating a winter greenhouse:

the initial installation of IR heaters will be quite expensive;
a large number of counterfeits of well-known brands of equipment, so if you are tempted by a lower price, there is a risk of rapid breakdown of the device;
It is important to accurately calculate the required number of heating elements, based on their power, the volume of the room and possible heat loss.

Where is the best place to place an IR heater in a greenhouse? To a large extent, this depends on individual conditions: the size of the greenhouse, the power of the equipment and the range of heating with infrared rays. But there are a number of universal requirements:

the most successful placement is above the plantings;
The minimum distance from the lamp to the plantings is 1 m. In order to maintain this distance as it grows, it is recommended to mount it on hangers;
or use weaker heaters permanently mounted under the roof of the greenhouse. The temperature near the ground will be slightly lower, but a larger planting area will be heated;
for a standard country greenhouse, it is recommended to install these heaters with a minimum pitch of 50 cm. For a 6x3 m greenhouse, 2-3 devices are enough;
if you need to heat a large area, then it is more rational to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern to exclude cold zones.

What to look for when choosing an IR heater for a winter greenhouse:

In pursuit of large harvests, summer residents sometimes use industrial IR heaters in their small greenhouses. They emit short waves that guarantee accelerated plant growth. But you should know that they will negatively affect your health. Therefore, before purchasing a heater, you need to pay attention to the scope of its use;
Even for commercial heating of a greenhouse, you should not choose electric IR emitters. Electricity consumption will be extremely costly and economically unprofitable;
Ceiling-mounted IR heaters are typically designed for tall production greenhouses. For household purposes, they sell devices on tripods or with wall mounting;
on average, one industrial heater is capable of heating a greenhouse with an area of up to 80-100 m², and a household heater up to 15-20 m².

Do-it-yourself winter greenhouse with heating

Let's look at how to build a winter greenhouse from modern material - polycarbonate

DIY foundation for a winter greenhouse

An important aspect of construction is the creation of an energy-efficient space, without cracks and cold bridges. Therefore, it is recommended to build a foundation. But before you fill it, you should lay all the necessary communications (electricity, water supply, etc.)
It can be columnar or on stilts. But in this case it will be necessary to sheathe it and additionally insulate it. It is better to make a strip foundation. A trench 15-20 cm wide and 50 cm deep is dug for it. A 5 cm sand cushion is poured onto the bottom and formwork is installed.

Waterproofing material is placed in the formwork and a reinforcement cage is placed. All that remains is to fill it with concrete.
It is advisable to pour concrete only up to ground level, and then lay it out with moisture-resistant red brick. If you pour the solution higher, you must remember that the concrete will have to be waterproofed and covered from the outside and inside. If this is not done, the moisture that gets into its pores freezes and expands in winter, which leads to microcracks and further destruction.
If the base is made of brick, then to reduce the cost of construction you can use used brick, the main thing is to choose red - it is more moisture resistant.

DIY frame for a winter greenhouse

The frame can be ordered ready-made from metal arches. Or weld it yourself, then the greenhouse will have a gable roof. If you don’t have welding skills, but want to build it as cheaply as possible, then the frame is made of wood.
Since the greenhouse will have high humidity all year round, the boards for the frame need to be prepared. They are cleaned with a grinder or sandpaper. After this, they are coated with special antiseptic impregnations. Additionally, it can be treated with liquid waterproofing, for example, a primer.
They begin to assemble the frame from the bottom trim. To do this, a beam with a section of 10x10 cm is placed along the perimeter of the foundation.
The pitch between the vertical beams depends on the snow cover in the region. If there is a lot of snow, then the step between the posts should not exceed 60 cm. Placing them more often is also not rational, the light transmittance will decrease, and the price of the building will increase.
A frame is also made of a bar with a cross-section of 5x5 cm on top of the wall studs. The rafters are attached to it using metal corners. Every 2 m, it is advisable to strengthen the roof with a horizontal beam, which is attached to the top trim between the roof slopes.

Tip: to make the winter greenhouse as energy efficient as possible, place a small vestibule with an additional polycarbonate door at the entrance.

Polycarbonate is attached externally, the thickness is chosen 8 or 10 mm. Fix it with self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket.

How to build a winter greenhouse with heating video

Do-it-yourself greenhouse heating system installation

Let's look at the example of water heating.

Helpful Tips:

the stove is placed in the greenhouse itself, since it will also radiate heat;
For fire safety, the stove should be installed on a non-combustible base. If the heating will be provided by a portable stove-stove, then a flat metal sheet is sufficient. If the stove is built as a stationary brick stove, then a concrete base is poured under it;
in a winter greenhouse, ventilation in the form of a window must be provided;
all pipes that will lead directly from the stove to the heating system must be made of metal. The use of PVC pipes is allowed only at a distance of 1 m from the heater;

For water circulation, install an expansion barrel as high as possible.

Stages of work

To properly heat a winter greenhouse, you need to ensure that the soil is warmed up. For this purpose, high-strength water heating pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are used.

Advice: it is better to invest at the initial stage and equip the heating system with an automatic control unit. This will allow you to change the temperature depending on the degree of plant development.

For efficiency, heating pipes in the ground should be insulated from below so that all the heat goes only upward. At the site of future beds, a layer of fertile soil is removed. A protective mesh against moles is placed on the bottom, and a film is placed on top of it to retain sand.
A 5-10 cm layer of sand is poured onto the film and the heating pipes are laid in a serpentine pattern with a pitch of at least 30 cm.
In order for the soil to warm up evenly, the pipes are covered with a 5-10 cm layer of sand. A fertile layer of soil is poured on top.

Heating a winter greenhouse with warm smoke

A standard potbelly stove can heat a greenhouse area of 10-15 m2. It should be located away from the walls of the greenhouse. So, if they are made of metal and glass, then they retreat 30 cm, if they are made of polycarbonate, then at least 60-70 cm.
Both old and modern stove models consist of the same structural elements: firebox, chimney and pipe. The fuel is thrown into the firebox, where, when burned, it releases heat, or rather warm smoke. It, passing through a pipe inside the greenhouse, heats the room and exits into the chimney outside.
They start with the foundation for the stove. This will protect it from sinking into the ground and possibly falling. A pit with a depth of 40-50 cm is dug under it. Its dimensions depend on the stove and on whether it will be lined with brick in the future.

Then a sand cushion and a drainage layer are poured at the same time. A mixture of crushed stone and sand is placed on the bottom, in a layer of 20 cm. You can also add fragments of bricks there.
A blind area is constructed from wooden boards. To prevent it from warping when pouring, the gap between the foundation pit and the boards is filled with sand. Fiberglass reinforcement is placed inside and filled with concrete. A film or roofing felt is placed on top and left to harden for 2-4 days.
If it is necessary to raise the foundation, then brickwork is erected directly on top of the foundation using clay-sand mortar (cement mortar may crack). During work, you must constantly use a plumb line and level so that the site is in an absolutely flat horizontal plane.
If it is possible to make fire-resistant walls around the stove, then it is better to take the combustion hole outside so that it can be heated from the street. This will reduce energy costs (no need to constantly open and close the greenhouse doors) and will avoid smoke inside the room.
To reduce the cost of construction, you can make a simple potbelly stove with your own hands. To do this, choose the simplest shape - rectangular. To heat a winter greenhouse measuring 15 m2, it is enough to make a stove measuring 50/30/40 cm (l/w/h).

First, a drawing of the future stove is made and transferred to heat-resistant sheet metal. The elements are cut out with a grinder. First of all, the bottom of the firebox and 3 walls are welded. Having retreated 10 cm from the bottom, metal corners are welded, the grille will be placed on them (you need to buy it in advance in the store or make it yourself). Cell size 2-3 cm2. In the future, the fuel will be placed on the grate and during combustion the ash will fall down, where it is convenient to clean it out.
Traditionally, the chimney is made from above, so before welding the lid, a 12-15 cm hole is made in it. But if the ground is supposed to be heated, then the chimney is placed on the side or below.
On the front wall of the future stove, make 2 holes with doors (the doors can be bought ready-made or made from a sheet of metal and attached to heat-resistant hinges). Fuel is loaded through one, and ash is cleaned through the second.
A small piece of pipe is welded to the hole on top. In the future, the chimney will be attached to it.
The stove for heating a winter greenhouse can be lined with brick, which will reduce the risk of fire and also increase the period of heat transfer. Which is especially true for winter nights. If this is not done, supports are welded to the structure.
If the greenhouse is small, then, as a rule, they make one chimney pipe that runs through the entire greenhouse and goes outside under the ridge. If you need to heat a large room and heat it from below, then the chimney is assembled from pipes of equal diameter using welding or special coupling adapters. Welding allows for absolute tightness. And when using couplings, clay is applied to all joints underneath them. The chimney is connected to the stove using any of these two methods.

Advice: when using a stove in a winter greenhouse, you need to properly lay out the chimney pipe system. For them, trenches of 30-40 cm are dug in the beds, in increments of 50-100 cm. Non-woven material is laid down, then pipes are placed and covered with expanded clay. A fertile layer is poured on top.

When heating air, supports are made for the chimney so that it rises smoothly and at the outlet is higher than the level of the stove. This will ensure even heating and traction at the same time.

A chimney is welded to the end of the chimney, through which the smoke will escape from the greenhouse to the street. The pipe is wrapped with foil insulating material so that it does not heat the roof elements. The end of the pipe is protected with a spark arrester.
Stove heating dries out the air greatly. This is bad for plants in a greenhouse. Therefore, a metal container for water is often placed next to the stove. It will provide irrigation with warm water and, by evaporating, increase air humidity.

If the question arises of how to build a greenhouse for winter growing, then you need to start from the average temperature. If any of the above methods are suitable for the southern regions, then for the middle zone and northern regions you will need to install a gas or electric system.

Such a question may seem rhetorical, however, when deciding to invest in heating a greenhouse, the owner must firmly know what results he is pursuing, and what advantages the invested efforts and resources will provide.

Over the history of the operation of these garden buildings, many ways to heat them have been invented, which can be divided according to a number of criteria. This article will not discuss the method of natural heating using solar energy, since this method does not require the use of complex technical means.

The main task with this heating method is the correct choice of location for construction, the use of the most optimal shape and the use of light and heat-reflecting dyes or materials in places of least solar radiation.

Otherwise, the gardener can only hope that the number of hours of sunshine will be sufficient to maintain the optimal temperature in the greenhouse.

Other methods of maintaining optimal temperature in a greenhouse are more complex.

Biological method

The simplest and probably the oldest and most favorite method of heating a greenhouse by gardeners is biological, i.e. heating using the heat released by biological materials during decay. This method attracts land owners not only for its simplicity, but also for its low cost.

In addition, when using this method, another goal is achieved - the soil is fertilized with mineral nutrition. The biologically active substances most often are a variety of combinations of plant waste and manure, which have the ability to generate heat in reaction with air.

Reference: Based on the practice of use, pig manure is able to maintain a temperature of +14-16 ˚C for 70 days; horse manure maintains a temperature of +33-38 ˚С for 70-90 days; Cow manure produces heat for up to 100 days, capable of maintaining a temperature of +12-20 ˚C in a greenhouse.
Plant substances also give good results. Thus, sawdust can warm the soil to +20 ˚C for 14 days, rotted tree bark keeps the heat in the range of +20-25 ˚C for up to 120 days.

Heating a greenhouse using technical means is more energy-intensive, but also more practical, since it eliminates the need to constantly change biological mixtures in the structure, and also provides much more stable indicators, so necessary for growing a rich harvest.

Technical heating methods can be divided into a number of subtypes depending on the energy sources used.

We warm ourselves with electricity

Electricity is now available in almost every corner of the country. Its cost may be higher than the cost of other energy sources, but its ease of use, high efficiency, and the possibility of using economical heat sources speak in its favor.

The simplest way to heat a greenhouse using electricity is using a fan heater. Convenience, simplicity and low cost speak in its favor. It does not require any re-equipment of the greenhouse - just connect the electrical cable and place the heating device in the optimal location. At the same time, the movement of air prevents moisture from accumulating on the walls, and the heat itself is distributed evenly.
This kind of heating is easy to do with your own hands. As a minus, it should be noted the harmful effect on plants that will be in close proximity to the fan.
Cable heating using electricity is also easy to use and has good heat distribution combined with automatic temperature control. However, its installation is far from a simple undertaking and only an owner with certain special knowledge and skills can handle it independently. Or you will have to use hired labor.
Warm greenhouse using infrared panels organizing is quite simple, and it will significantly reduce costs due to the high efficiency of these devices. In addition, the popularity of IR panels is facilitated by their research-proven ability to increase the percentage of plant germination. The long service life of such heat sources is also important – up to 10 years.

Important: When using IR panels, they should be placed in such an order that their radiation covers the entire area of the greenhouse. This is due to the fact that infrared rays warm up not the air, but the soil, and then the heat spreads throughout the room. Most often, a checkerboard arrangement of panels is used.

Water heating

As the name suggests, this method of heating a greenhouse uses water. In this case, we are talking about the fact that pipes are laid in the greenhouse room through which water circulates as a coolant.

In this case, water can be heated in several ways - using solid fuel boilers (burning coal, wood, peat, wood waste, etc.), gas boilers and boilers running on liquid fuel.

In some cases, a greenhouse can be connected to the central heating system of a residential building. There are many advantages of this type of greenhouse heating. These include the relative simplicity of the heating circuit, sufficient availability of materials, and the possibility of using the most accessible and cheapest type of fuel in the area.

A handy owner can make such heating himself. The disadvantages include the difficulty of temperature control when using solid fuel boilers. Gas boilers provide better performance to maintain an optimal environment.

Warming with air

In this case, as can be understood from the name, heated air acts as a heat carrier.

Quite often, heating is now used in practice using gas catalytic burners, which heat the air in a greenhouse by burning natural or bottled gas. Cylinders are used in cases where heating is needed for a short period of time, for example in cases of frost.
Another type of air heating is similar to water heating, only in this case, perforated polyethylene hoses are laid from the fuel boiler, through which warm air is supplied to the greenhouse, warming the soil.
And finally, heating the greenhouse using a good old stove-stove. Despite its primitiveness, this method should not be written off. Its cheapness, simplicity and effectiveness speak for themselves.

Heating a greenhouse with your own hands

Biological heating. For its construction, it is considered ideal to use horse and cow manure, since they have the longest heat generation characteristics. Plant mixtures are often used - 75% fallen leaves are mixed with manure, or 30% decomposed peat is added to 70% manure and then treated with a urea solution at a concentration of 0.6%. In the spring, before the biological mixture is placed in the greenhouse, it must be heated. To do this, it is shoveled and moistened with water or mullein.
Sometimes hot stones are used to speed up the process. After a few days, the process of heat release begins, as evidenced by a rise in temperature to 50-60 °C. After this, in the greenhouse, in place of the beds, a fertile layer as thick as a spade is removed. Then the manure itself or the mixture is laid. If you use cow manure, then you should lay a layer of brushwood up to 10 cm thick on the sawdust, this will enhance aeration. Hotter manure is placed in the center, and colder manure is placed at the edges. Manure is applied at the rate of 0.3-0.4 cubic meters per 1 square meter of area.
After a couple of days, when the manure has settled, you should add another portion, which should be sprinkled with a thin layer of slaked lime, which will enhance the heat release reaction and at the same time prevent the appearance of mushrooms. Then the fertile soil returns to its place in the form of a layer 20-25 cm thick. After several days, plants can be planted in the soil.
With stove heating First of all, you should determine the place where this heating device and chimney will be located, taking into account fire safety measures. In addition, it should be noted that plants should not be located in close proximity to the stove, because the radiated heat can be detrimental to them. When installing the stove, heat-insulating materials should be used at the site of the foundation and adjacent walls of the greenhouse. The chimney pipe is usually installed in such a way that its length in the greenhouse is maximum. This allows for the best use of heat transfer. Needless to say, combustion products should not enter the greenhouse premises, and measures should be taken in the room itself to maintain optimal humidity and access to fresh air.
Having decided to heat the greenhouse using electricity, first of all, work should be carried out on laying a separate power cable to the structure, which can withstand a load equal to the total power of the heating elements used.
In this case, it is necessary to use safe insulation and route the cable to a separate package switch. When installing heating elements (fan heaters, infrared panels, air heaters, etc.) in a greenhouse, you should take into account their characteristics specified in the technical data sheets - power, heating area, direction of radiation, etc.
It is also worth considering that if you decide to use a cable as a heating element, work in an already built greenhouse will be quite labor-intensive, because To lay the cable, you will need to remove the top fertile layer of soil, create the necessary cushion for the cable and then return the soil to its place.
Water or air heating greenhouse can also require significant labor costs. When installing it, you will have to build a place for the heating boiler, as well as the actual water or air circulation system. Before starting work, it is worth creating a heating diagram that reflects the location and required slope of the circulation system; if necessary, include a pump in the water heating scheme if natural circulation is not possible.
As a simpler solution, you can use your existing stove heating. In this case, a water tank is mounted on the stove, to which pipes are connected with heated water circulating through them.
Gas heating It’s quite easy to arrange if you use gas cylinders. In this case, the explosion and fire hazard of such systems should be taken into account if the rules for handling gas equipment are violated. Therefore, when wiring gas hoses in a greenhouse, it is necessary to carefully check all joints and connections. If you want to use gas from the pipeline, you will have to obtain the appropriate permits from regulatory authorities. As in the case of electric heating devices, when placing natural gas heating devices in a greenhouse, their technical characteristics should be taken into account, that is, the heating area, the direction of the flow of heated air.

Reference: Given the sufficient technical complexity of the device for gas heating of a greenhouse, it has a significant advantage: when natural gas is burned, carbon dioxide is formed and moisture is released, which are so necessary for plants. This creates an extremely favorable environment for their most active growth and development.

As can be seen from the above, heating a greenhouse can be arranged in a variety of ways. In this case, it is imperative to take into account the length of the period when it will be necessary to maintain heat, the size and design of the room, the availability and cost of energy sources. Only after this should a final decision be made on the use of one scheme or another.

Owners of houses and greenhouses often wonder how possible it is to provide heating for a greenhouse in winter with their own hands, what are the options for heating a greenhouse in winter. In our article we will try to answer these questions in order to give you the opportunity to choose the most appropriate option and practically implement it on your site.

Heating a greenhouse in winter: important points that should not be overlooked

When considering options for heating a greenhouse in winter, you need to remember the following important points:

The temperature in the internal volume of the greenhouse should never exceed +40°C. Excessive heat can simply dry out your plants.
To heat each cubic meter of greenhouse volume, the selected heating device must produce 100 W of heat.
Ground heating is ideal for heating. If heat exchangers are used, then they must be located at the minimum possible height.

Greenhouse heating options in winter

Solar heating

In northern regions, this type of heating can only be additional. To enhance the heating effect using solar energy, you can use the diagram below. It depicts a greenhouse with a transparent roof slope facing south. The northern slope is covered with foil. The sun's rays reflected by the foil increase the efficiency of solar heating.

Bioheating

Do-it-yourself heating of a greenhouse in winter can be achieved by using biological materials - manure, peat or humus. They release heat during decomposition.

To ensure heating of the greenhouse in winter using this method, the following operations must be performed:

Before placing manure or compost in the greenhouse, it should be warmed up. To do this, it is loosened and moistened. As soon as steaming begins, the mass is ready for installation.

The mass should be laid in a layer of up to half a meter. It should be remembered that the amount of heat it produces is directly proportional to its volume.
The mass should be covered with a 30 cm layer of soil.

The advantage of this method is that heating and fertilizing the soil are carried out simultaneously.

Air heating

Heating a greenhouse in winter with your own air heating is quite economical if the structure is small enough. If the greenhouse is large, then the installation of an air duct system will be required, which will significantly increase the cost of all work and complicate it.

Warm air can be produced through various means.

Solid fuel

There are a large number of solid fuel devices. The most attractive among them are buleryans, capable of working for up to half a day on one fuel fill.

Gas

If the gas main is located near the greenhouse, then you can resort to two fairly inexpensive solutions:

Installation of a gas air heating boiler, the operating principle of which is similar to a conventional one.

Heating of greenhouses is also very efficient. However, this option is quite complicated, since their installation requires a permanent wall.

Electricity

The most economical heat pump to use in a greenhouse is an electric heat pump.

Water heating

With a large building area, heating of the greenhouse in winter is often provided by a water system. Its installation, which is quite expensive, allows for greater uniformity of heating. Moreover, individual heating elements installed around the perimeter separate the plants from the cold walls, thanks to the convection curtain rising from them.

The water heating devices used can be different:

heating main, the best materialization of which can be steel registers;

familiar to everyone radiators made of aluminum;
, equipped with polyethylene pipes.

So, the choice of the most suitable heating system is yours. We hope that the attached video material will allow you to learn even more details on this topic in order to competently provide heating for the greenhouse in winter with your own hands.

I wonder what you will write to us in your comments?

Despite the existence of many alternative options, heating a greenhouse in winter with large-sized water heating is always popular among summer residents. Suffice it to recall electric heating systems. Here the cables are laid in shallow trenches. This ensures uniform heating of greenhouses of impressive dimensions.

The required temperatures can also be achieved using modern infrared emitters. However, the construction of such versions of heating systems requires significant financial investments; the efficiency of these complexes is low.

Such complexes boast:

Simplicity of design. Hydronic heating systems are the most reliable way to heat large greenhouses in winter;
Versatility when choosing fuel. Water can heat up as a result of burning ordinary wood, coal, and household waste. You can also use gas (provided that the area where the site is located is gasified);
Since water has a unique heat capacity, such heating networks have a high level of inertia. When the heat supply to the boiler is stopped, it remains warm for a long time. This eliminates cases of sudden temperature changes;
Water heating can easily heat the air and soil;
When heating rooms with water, air humidity does not decrease. This effect is especially important in the cold months, because at this time the level of humidity in the air masses is extremely low.

Heating water systems have one significant drawback: at very low temperatures, the pipes can freeze. Accidents happen when heating is unexpectedly interrupted and the water from the pipes was not drained in a timely manner. When the liquid freezes, it turns into ice, which bursts the pipes.

The heat inside is best preserved if the roof of the greenhouse is covered with cellular polycarbonate, the cellular structure of which has extremely low thermal conductivity. The second place is occupied by barriers made of film, but it (due to poor mechanical characteristics) cannot be used on structures that are used in winter. Glass took the last place. To solve such problems, double glazing is used.

General characteristics and equipment

Winter heat loss will be reduced if the greenhouse is equipped with an entrance vestibule. There you can locate the basic components of heating equipment. Heat is well retained in cases where the greenhouse is attached to a residential building, and the entrance to it is located inside the house itself. This version is also good because the winter greenhouse can be connected to a single heating network.

Heat will be lost much less if heat-insulating materials are used. Very good results are obtained from polyisocyanurate sheets coated on both sides with layers of foil. A cheaper option uses sections of regular, less durable foam.

Any greenhouse heating system consists of:

Heat source. Here we should mention stoves that run on all kinds of fuel (wood, gas, coal); There are greenhouses with electric heaters;
Boiler- a container in which the liquid is heated;
Pump. Thanks to it, stable water circulation in the system is ensured. Organizing greenhouse heating without a blower element is only possible in small greenhouses. In large objects, the natural flow of water will be insufficient. This disadvantage is especially noticeable in winter, when the magnitude of daily temperature changes sharply increases;
A circuit that warms the soil. The pipes are laid directly into the ground. To do this, a trench 30 cm deep is first dug. The rolls can be plastic, metal-plastic or all-metal. The first two options are more durable, but heat transfer is worse. When using metal pipes, it is recommended to treat their surface with anti-corrosion compounds, which will significantly increase their service life;
The circuit that warms the air masses. Ordinary radiators will do, with the help of which living spaces are heated in winter. There are versions where pipes with a larger cross-section are used. They are laid along the entire structure;
Expansion water tank. Such an element should be connected in those heating systems where the effect of thermal expansion of water is present. Since the volume of liquid expands with increasing temperature, an impressive container is required where the excess will be drained. The tank is the finishing unit of the last heating circuit. There are no special requirements for it. This can be a large plastic canister or a special product purchased at a construction market. The expansion tank is installed at the highest point of the entire heating system.

The most optimal option is when the injection pump is placed on the “return” pipe. Here the water heating temperature is minimal, which helps to extend the operating life of the unit.

The pump must be mounted in such a way that it is surrounded by ball valves on both sides. In this case, you can dismantle the emergency pump without draining the water from the entire heating system. Models of modern pumps have several fixed operating modes. This makes it possible to adjust the heating of the greenhouse in winter.

Water heating of a greenhouse (video)

To competently and correctly organize water heating of large greenhouses in winter, certain everyday and professional skills are required. Using the necessary knowledge and skills, an experienced summer resident will be able to successfully cope with all tasks.

Heating a greenhouse with wood (video)

Gallery: water heating of greenhouses (15 photos)

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Heating greenhouses is a very pressing problem if you grow herbs and vegetables all year round. In summer, solar heat is enough, but how to heat a greenhouse in spring, autumn and winter is something you should think about thoroughly.

So what heating method should you choose then?

First of all, you should take into account several nuances:

You need to know exactly what purpose you are choosing a heater for. Different applications may favor different methods.
Take into account the operating features of the greenhouse in which the heating system will be installed.
Calculate the required budget for the entire event. Is this price right for you?
Lastly, don't forget about your personal preferences. Which method do you prefer?

But in order to apply such an algorithm, you need to understand all feasible types of heating for greenhouses. This is what you and I will do.

Natural

Everyone has heard about the greenhouse effect. But now it is more popular to mention it on a global scale. But where did this expression come from?

The sun's rays enter through the sections, heating the ground and air (see also article).

Warm air and the ground do not disappear anywhere, they do not mix with cold air, because this is precisely the calculation. The effect accumulates to a certain extent, and your plants receive the much-needed warmth.

Tip: To optimize your heating system, know your region's minimum temperature and the temperature your crop requires to ripen best. Then you will know how much heat to add without overdoing it.

This method is the simplest. It is only important to install the building correctly so that heat can accumulate inside. And then regulate the temperature by ventilation.

An insurmountable disadvantage of such a system is the impossibility of using it in winter. And spring and autumn, frankly speaking, won’t work either. Summer period only.

Artificial

To maintain the desired temperature throughout the year, it is necessary to use technical methods. Today there is a great variety of heating equipment, therefore, there are also quite a few methods. Let's look at them in order.

Electric heating through air

This method is simple, convenient and do-it-yourself. For its implementation, conventional fan heaters are used. Supply electricity to the building, bring such a unit, turn it on, and the process is established.

This option has the following advantages:

The relatively low price of such equipment.
Mobility. The location of the heater and the direction of the flow of warm air can be easily changed.
Warm wind. The air is not only heated, but also ventilated inside the structure.
Rapid temperature change.
The presence of a heating level regulator.
Uniform heating of the entire room in the presence of several devices.

No condensation. Thanks to the constant movement of air, water does not collect on the walls of the greenhouse.

There are also disadvantages:

Uneven heating when using only one heater.
Harmful effects on the plant when directly exposed to a hot stream. Display appliances above shelving to prevent this effect.

Tip: to operate the greenhouse in winter, prepare additional space for lighting fixtures to compensate for the lack of photosynthesis in the seedlings.

Using Electric Heating Cable

This method is quite new, but rapidly gaining popularity due to its positive qualities.

Namely:

Low cost of system installation.
Savings in use.
Ease of use.
Automatic heating adjustment.
Uniform heat distribution throughout the entire area.
Long service life.

First of all, this method does an excellent job of heating the ground in a greenhouse. Since its installation is directly related to it.

Let's look at the installation progress:

Remove the layer of soil.
Cover the vacant space with sand.
We lay material with low thermal conductivity on top of the sand so that your device does not heat the globe.

Tip: to create thermal insulation, you can use expanded polystyrene or polyethylene foam. These materials have shock-resistant and moisture-proof qualities, which will serve as protection for the cable.

We place the wire in turns on the heat-insulating pad, as shown in the figure above. In this case, the rings of the conditional snake should be equidistant from each other by 15 centimeters.
Pour a few centimeters of sand on top.
To protect the equipment, we install an iron mesh over the sand.
We cover all this with a layer of earth.

Different vegetation has different heat requirements at different stages of its growth. This system allows you to satisfy such needs, which significantly increases the level of yield.

Infrared electric heating method

The main distinguishing feature is that they provide heat directly to the plants, bypassing the heating of the air.

More details about the properties:

Increasing the growth rate of seedlings by up to 40%, thanks to targeted heat transfer.
Using multiple lamps allows you to create individual zones for individual crops.
Heating the air, but from the soil and plants.
Easy to install.
High mobility.
Heating level regulator.
Performance up to ten years.

Tip: by using a checkerboard pattern for installing infrared lamps, you will get rid of the possibility of “dead zones”, places that are not heated by any device.

This method has an incredibly high return at low cost.

Heating a greenhouse using pipes

In this case, you cannot do without a stove. The method of heating with water using pipes is considered to be one of the cheapest and easiest to implement. But this is more likely due to conservatism.

Let's look at the features of this option:

It has its own heating control system, but it is less reliable and more difficult to use than that of competitive heaters.
Heating requires solid fuel, which must be added manually. This is an additional investment of time and effort.

Branches of such heaters are liquid fuel and gas furnaces. The former better regulate air heating, while the latter are completely automated, but require good exhaust. True, such models are already much more expensive in price.

Another variation of stove heating with pipes can be connection to the house. Here detailed instructions are already needed so as not to cause harm by leaving living quarters without proper heat.

Bake

The stove can be used without pipes at all. In this case, all costs for installing additional units are deducted. This makes this method the most accessible and easy to implement, but requires a lot of attention and has a relatively low efficiency.

Ordinary firewood, coal, coke, or your other preferred option are perfect as fuel.

Emergency heating

It's suddenly cold, but your heating isn't ready?

You can use the method with the maximum rate of temperature rise:

Take an empty barrel and porous bricks.
Blot the bricks with the flammable mixture and place them in a barrel.
Place the container with bricks near the greenhouse.
Install a pipe from the top of your device to the ceiling of the greenhouse.
You set the bricks on fire.

Executing this option very quickly heats the room and maintains the temperature until the morning.

Bottom line

For year-round use of a greenhouse without heating, there is no way. But the good thing is that there are plenty of ways to implement it.

It all depends on your budget, preferences and the scale with which you are going to grow vegetables. You can choose either an economical one-time option or a system that works properly for years.

If you are going to install heaters yourself, then the video in this article will help you. Although the complexity of installation will primarily depend on which method appeals to your attention.

Weigh everything carefully and begin implementing a heating system in your greenhouse. May your choice bring you many fruits!