Nord refrigerator does not start. The refrigerator does not turn on, the light inside is on

Today, every home is filled to capacity with modern household appliances: washing machine, microwave, refrigerator. Everything “grumbles” and works, periodically informing the user about problems. It happens that the equipment visually works, but in fact it does not function. Speaking of the refrigerator: it often happens that the appliance does not hum, but the light is on.

If you cannot hear the sounds of the compressor or the clicks of the relay, and the food on the shelves has begun to deteriorate, and yet the refrigerator does not turn on, but the light is on, it is a breakdown.

When the light is on, but one of the compartments does not freeze (or both at the same time), this is not a temporary failure or an electronic “glitch”; in most cases, the breakdown of one of the components of complex equipment is to blame.

It also happens that the compressor does not start, the light does not come on - then you can declare it completely broken. But today’s review is devoted to the problem of a refrigerator that is turned off while the light is on. Let's look at the signs and causes of this problem below.

When your Indesit, Atlant or Nord refrigerator has stopped freezing, but in the main compartment the light or LED backlight is on (or not on), first check the following points:

  • If you have new equipment, packed with modern functions - and they all work, but the chamber is warm, check correct installation. If the position of the cabinet is uneven and you did not use a technical level during installation, the door may not fit tightly. The “smart” model will not allow the motor to turn on if warm air enters the chamber. There is no point in cooling the air - its supply does not stop. Some models will notify the user of the problem by illuminating corresponding error code on the electronic board.

  • If you have a Biryusa refrigerator and the light does not light in it (as well as ZIL, Dnepr and any old model), pay attention to the power cord, plug or socket. Perhaps the technology is not “to blame”, and the root of the problem lies on the surface. If the electrical component is in perfect order, the old refrigerator could have failed due to an internal problem. Turn off the power to the equipment, unload the shelves and wait for the technician.

Important! If the light in the refrigerator goes out, but the motor is working, check the light bulb. And if the light stops burning and the equipment does not turn on, a breakdown has occurred.

What to do if the light does not come on and the motor does not work:

  1. Reboot the refrigerator.
  2. If the compressor turns on but the light does not come on, inspect the light bulb.
  3. If it is burnt out, replace it.
  4. It is easy to replace a halogen, fluorescent or incandescent lamp yourself - remove the lampshade and reinstall the lamp.
  5. If you need to change the LED lamp, proceed carefully or contact service.

It is worth considering in more detail the reasons why the device refuses to work. Narrow down the range of possible breakdowns by reading our table of possible failures, causes and symptoms:

Signs What is the problem How to fix the crash
There is light in the chamber, but the motor is silent. The refrigerator clicks but does not start. The motor-compressor burned out. Clicks are just accompanying signs. They are issued by a starting protective relay, which is responsible for starting and shutting down the compressor. If the motor manages to turn on, it “cuts out” almost instantly. The compressor needs to be reinstalled. Sometimes these repairs are so expensive that it is easier to buy a new refrigerator.

The light is on, the compressor does not turn on. Clicks are heard.

Refrigerator model with electromechanical control type.

The temperature controller (thermostat) is broken. The device is responsible for controlling the temperature in the chambers. If the thermostat fails, the control unit does not receive a signal that there is not enough cold in the chamber. As a result, the motor turns off. Replacing the thermostat will solve the problem.
There is light, the motor is turned off (relevant for models equipped with electronic control). Damage to the main chamber air sensor. Due to a problem, this sensor does not transmit data to the board about the temperature increase in the chamber, so the motor does not start. The sensor needs to be replaced.
Neither the lights nor the refrigerator work. The starting protective relay is likely to fail. The relay is replaced with a new one.
There may be no lighting, but there may be light. It's the electronic board that's faulty. If the control unit is broken, it does not read sensor signals and the engine does not start. The board needs to be flashed or replaced.

When an imported or domestic refrigerator does not work (for example, “Stinol”), and the light is on, you should pay special attention to additional “symptoms” of the problem. Don't ignore clicks and other signs. All of them will help the technician in the initial diagnosis of the problem.

Sometimes failures occur due to force majeure. For example, an air sensor can burn out due to a power surge. And along with it, the light bulb may burn out. Therefore, the absence of light is not always an accurate indicator of a breakdown.

Important! Install an RCD and a stabilizer to avoid trouble. And also use the services of professional workshops so as not to completely break the equipment. Remember that you cannot solve problems with electronics yourself if you do not have the skills.

You walk into the kitchen and there’s an unpleasant surprise. The refrigerator doesn't work, it just doesn't turn on and that's it. There is no need to panic, this problem can be solved. Perhaps the reason is so insignificant that you can figure it out yourself. And in a more complex case, it will be enough to call a specialist who will make the repair in a matter of hours.

We provide an algorithm for finding the reason why the refrigerator does not turn on. You need to check sequentially:

  1. Network voltage.
  2. Internal camera lighting and electrical connection.
  3. Thermostat.
  4. Defrost button.
  5. Protective and starting relay.
  6. Compressor.
  7. Contacts of the entire electrical circuit.
  8. Control block.

Approximate prices for repairs

Please do not take this article as a guide to repairing your refrigerator yourself. If you do not have qualifications and experience working with electrical engineering, you should limit yourself to only the first steps. Remember that inept equipment repairs aggravate the situation and lead to new breakdowns.

Mains voltage

Probably, when you noticed a non-working refrigerator, the first thing you did was turn on the light in the kitchen to make sure that there was electricity at all. But this is not enough. The fact is that the voltage in the electrical network may be too low. In such cases, most modern refrigerators do not turn on. Their defense mechanisms are triggered.

The normal voltage for a refrigerator is about 220 V. You can measure it with a voltmeter or multimeter. Connect the test leads to the socket contacts and the device will show the actual voltage.

If your refrigerator is powered by a generator, make sure that the generator itself is working properly. It can also output undervoltage. And mobile generators are often unable to provide the refrigerator with enough starting current to start the compressor.

Connection to the network and light in the camera

If the voltage is within normal limits, check whether current is reaching the refrigerator. There are likely problems in several places:

  • Socket. Check her out. Don't have a multimeter or experience working with it? Just plug in any electrical appliance, such as a table lamp, into a power outlet. Is it shining? This means the socket is ok.
  • Plug and power cord. The easiest way is to look into the camera. If the light does not light in it, most likely the problem is in the cord. Perhaps he was interrupted, broken or crushed. In this case, the cord must be replaced and the motor will start working.

When the light in the compartment is on, but the engine does not start, the problem should be looked for “inside” the refrigerator. But there is an exception here. For new, “smart” refrigerators with automatic control and other “bells and whistles”, failure to operate may be due to incorrect installation.

If the appliance is not level, the doors do not fit tightly enough, and warm air constantly enters the chamber. In this case, the automation does not start the engine so that it does not work in vain (why create cold if it will go outside anyway). It turns out that the light in the chamber is on, all the indications work, but the refrigerator does not turn on. The display may show the corresponding error code.

Malfunction of the thermostat, defrost button, start-protective relay

So, the voltage is normal, the cord is intact, the refrigerator is installed correctly, the light in the chamber is on, but the engine does not work.

  1. The first thing you should check is the thermostat. There are two wires connected to it, connected by a terminal. The terminal must be removed and these wires connected directly, without a thermostat. This will close the electrical circuit and force the engine to start. If everything worked out and the refrigerator started working, then the problem is a broken thermostat. It must be replaced.
  2. If the direct connection does not help, you need to return the wires to their place and check the defrost button. Sometimes it gets stuck and opens the circuit, preventing the engine from starting. The button is checked in the same way as the thermostat, and if it breaks, it is replaced with a new one.
  3. When both nodes are in order, you need to deal with the starting and protective relays. They can be either separate or combined in one building. In any case, the parts must be disconnected from the refrigerator, and then their windings must be checked with an ohmmeter. If a break is detected, the relay is replaced.
Motor-compressor failure

The next step is engine diagnostics. He may refuse to work for three reasons:

  • interturn short circuit of the winding;
  • winding break;
  • short circuit of the compressor to the housing.

To determine the problem you need an ohmmeter. There are three contacts on the compressor - normally they all connect to each other and do not short to the housing. The resistance between the contacts should be at least 18-20 ohms. If it is smaller, or any contact shorts to the housing, then the problem is with the compressor.

The motor, although expensive, is rarely repairable. As a rule, the problem is solved by replacing the broken compressor with a new one. In any case, you shouldn’t take on such a task yourself - it’s too difficult, and mistakes are expensive.

Oxidation of contacts and problems with the control module

If the compressor and other components are in order, but the refrigerator still does not turn on, there is probably an open circuit. This often happens due to oxidized contacts. It is necessary to inspect and clean all contacts of previously checked nodes. The refrigerator may turn on immediately.

Otherwise, the cause must be sought in the control module. Firstly, the contacts on the block itself can also oxidize, disrupting the connection. Secondly, modules often have firmware problems. Such failures occur due to power surges, improper use of the control panel, etc. The faulty module must be replaced.

In any case, whatever the reason for the refrigerator breakdown, its diagnosis and repair should be entrusted to specialists. It will be cheaper, more reliable and easier than trying to solve the problem yourself. And if you call a specialist to your home, the repairs will be completed much faster and more conveniently for you.

The refrigerator most often breaks down at the most inopportune moment. What was the cause, how serious the breakdown is, how can it be fixed - a summary table of refrigerator malfunctions will help answer these questions.

Refrigerator device

Refrigerator schematic diagram
A classic refrigerator (without No Frost system) works as follows:

  • The motor - compressor (1) sucks in gaseous freon from the evaporator, compresses it, and pushes it through the filter (6) into the condenser (7).
  • In the condenser, freon heated as a result of compression
    cools to room temperature and finally turns into a liquid state.
  • Liquid freon, under pressure, enters the internal cavity of the evaporator (5) through the opening of the capillary (8), transforms into a gaseous state, as a result of which it removes heat from the walls of the evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, cools the internal space of the refrigerator.
  • This process is repeated until the temperature of the evaporator walls set by the thermostat (3) is reached.
  • When the required temperature is reached, the thermostat opens the electrical circuit and the compressor stops.
  • After some time, the temperature in the refrigerator (due to the influence of external factors) begins to rise, the thermostat contacts close,
    Using the protective starting relay (2), the electric motor of the motor-compressor is started and the entire cycle is repeated from the beginning (see point 1)

Now that we have become familiar with the structure of the refrigerator, we propose the following sequence of actions:
Try to determine the problem. In the vast majority of cases, this is not difficult by following the troubleshooting instructions.
If possible, repair it yourself. A person familiar with the structure of the refrigerator and possessing a minimum set of tools is able to eliminate most malfunctions not related to depressurization of the system.
If self-repair is not possible, choose a company, decide on the cost of repairs and call a specialist.

Diagnosis of refrigerator malfunctions

Sequence of actions to identify a failed part and recommendations for repair. For compressor refrigerators without No Frost system.

Check the voltage in the outlet, it should be in the range of 200-240 Volts, if this is not the case, the refrigerator is not required to work (although it may work for some time, especially older models.)

All repair work must be carried out with the refrigerator unplugged and defrosted!

Refrigerator won't turn on

  • a) Check to see if the light inside the refrigerator is on; if it was on before, but now it’s off, there is a fault in the power cord or electrical plug (this is a fairly common problem and it is not necessary to call a refrigerator repairman to fix it).
  • b) If the light comes on, the first thing you need to do is check the thermostat:
    — we find two wires suitable for the thermostat, remove them from the terminals and connect them together. If the refrigerator starts working after this, we change the thermostat and the repair is complete.
  • c) If the thermostat is working properly. We check the refrigerator defrost button in the same way.
  • d) For further diagnostics you will need an ohmmeter. We disconnect and ring the starting and protective relay (they can be assembled in one housing); if we find a break, we replace the defective part.
  • d) The electric motor of the motor-compressor remains; it is difficult to replace it without the participation of a specialist, but since we have already reached it, it is worth finding out what exactly the malfunction is.
    This unit may have three defects:
    — winding break;
    — interturn short circuit of the winding;
    — short circuit to the motor-compressor housing;
    How to identify them is generally clear: all three contacts of the electric motor must ring with each other and not ring with the housing. If the resistance between any two contacts is less than 20 ohms, this may indicate an interturn short circuit.
  • f) If you carefully followed the previous steps and did not find a malfunction, this most likely indicates oxidation of the contacts in one of the connections in the electrical circuit of the refrigerator. Carefully inspect and clean all the contact groups that you disassembled, restore the refrigerator circuit in the reverse order - the refrigerator should work.

Video - how to check the refrigerator compressor

The refrigerator starts but turns off after a few seconds.

Typical electrical circuit for switching on a refrigerator compressor

a) Defect in the bimetallic plate 11.1 of the protective relay: we determine the malfunction and replace the part.
b) Defect of the coil (or other current sensor) 12.1 of the starting relay: we determine the malfunction and replace the part.
c) Break in the starting winding of electric motor 1.2: we determine the malfunction and call a refrigerator repairman to replace the motor-compressor.

Refrigerator starting relay device

The operation of the compressor in the refrigerator is controlled by a starting relay, which, when the compressor is turned on, supplies voltage to the working and starting windings of the compressor motor; after a short period of time, when the motor reaches the required speed, the starting winding is turned off and the compressor operates normally.
Often, the start relay is attached with a clamp directly to the compressor housing and removing it for inspection can take considerable effort.

The refrigerator works, but does not freeze

  • a) Freon leakage: Determined as follows - if the compressor is running and the amount of freon is normal, the condenser should heat up, touch it with your hand (be careful, it can heat up to 70 degrees), if after prolonged operation of the engine it remains cold, then there is a depressurization of the system . We disconnect the refrigerator from the network and call a technician.
  • b) Violation of thermostat adjustment. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one; if the refrigerator operates normally, send the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
  • c) Reduced performance of the motor-compressor. This is a difficult fault to diagnose, call a technician

The refrigerator does not freeze well

a) Violation of thermostat adjustment. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one; if the refrigerator operates normally, send the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
b) The rubber of the refrigerator door seal has lost its shape and elasticity. If the door does not close tightly, warm air will enter the refrigerator, the temperature regime will not be maintained and the motor-compressor will work with increased load. Carefully inspect the seal; if it is defective, replace it. (see also next point)
c) The refrigerator door was moving. The door geometry is adjusted by changing the tension of two diagonal rods located under the door panel. For more information on how to adjust the door, see eliminating cracks in refrigerator doors
d) Reduced performance of the motor-compressor. This is a difficult fault to diagnose, call a technician

The refrigerator is very cold

a) If the refrigerator turns off from time to time, but the temperature in it is too low, turn the thermostat knob slightly counterclockwise; if this does not help, see Failure to adjust the thermostat
b) The fast freeze button is forgotten in the pressed position - turn it off.

Many malfunctions that subsequently lead to expensive repairs of the refrigerator arise as a result of improper operation of the unit. Here are some simple tips:
a) If the refrigerator has been turned off for any reason, wait five minutes before turning it on again. This process can be automated, see refrigerator turn on delay timer

b) If the refrigerator has been defrosted, do not load it with food until it runs empty for one cycle and turns off.

c) Do not set the thermostat indicator further than the middle of the scale, this will not give a significant gain in temperature, and the engine will work in a stressful mode.

d) On some refrigerators, in the depths of the refrigerator compartment (on the back wall) there is a “crying evaporator”. Do not lean food against it and do not forget to clean the water drain located underneath it.

e) When defrosting the refrigerator, it is unacceptable to pick out the ice using hard objects; defrost only with warm water.

f) Some refrigerators have a “quick freeze” button (usually yellow); this button closes the contacts of the thermostat and the engine runs without turning off. Don't forget this button is pressed.

g) Do not store vegetable oil in the refrigerator; oil does not need it, and the rubber of the refrigerator door seal loses its elasticity.

h) Do not place the refrigerator near heating appliances.

As practice shows, if you entrust the repair of your refrigerator to incompetent persons, you risk “losing” the refrigerator!

Water in the refrigerator

The reason for the appearance of water in the refrigerator compartment is thawing, due to improper operating mode or loss of tightness. Even a small puddle is a bad sign. The refrigerator has time to thaw and leak - look for leaks; as a rule, the rubber seal does not fit tightly in the door. However, the reason may be trivial: the refrigerator doors were not closed tightly.

Refrigerator fault table

Signs of a defect Possible defects Repair
The refrigerator does not turn on, there is no light or indicationThere is no electrical voltage at the power outletCheck for voltage in the outlet and call an electrician if necessary.
The electrical circuit is brokenRepair the electrical circuit
The refrigerator is working, but there is no light in the refrigerator and/or freezer compartmentsLight bulb is faultyReplace the light bulb
Door switch is faultyReplace door switch
Food freezes in the refrigerator compartmentThermostat in the “high cooling” position
Low air temperature in the room where the refrigerator is locatedRaise the room temperature to normal, according to the operating instructions
Thermostat is faultyReplace thermostat
Refrigerant leak
Poor cooling of food in the refrigeratorThermostat in the “low cooling” positionAdjust the temperature with a thermostat
Set the distance between the rear surface of the refrigerator and the wall according to the operating instructions
Presence of heating devices located close to the refrigeratorEliminate this factor
Exposing the refrigerator to direct sunlightEliminate this factor
Refrigerant leakEliminate the cause of the leak and charge refrigerant
There is no cold in the freezer and/or refrigerator compartments, the refrigerator compressor is workingRefrigerant leakEliminate the cause of the leak and charge refrigerant
The capillary tube is cloggedClean the capillary tube
The filter of the drying cartridge is cloggedClean the filter of the drying cartridge
There is no cold in the freezer and/or refrigerator compartments, the refrigerator compressor does not work or works intermittentlyThermostat is faultyReplace thermostat
Start-up relay is faultyReplace the start-up relay
Compressor faulty
Refrigerant leakEliminate the cause of the leak and charge refrigerant
A layer of frost appeared on the walls of the freezerFreedom of access and exhaust of air in the freezer is difficultClear the inlet/outlet holes of the freezer compartment
There is no effective air circulation in the freezer compartmentEnsure effective air circulation throughout the chamber by creating gaps between products
The freezer door is not closed tightlyCheck that the freezer door is closed tightly
You hear unusual noises or sounds when your refrigerator is operatingRefrigerator feet are not adjusted correctlyAdjust the horizontal position of the refrigerator according to the operating instructions
The distance between the back of the refrigerator and the wall is not correctSet the distance between the rear surface of the refrigerator and the wall according to the refrigerator's operating instructions
Presence of foreign objects under and behind the refrigeratorRemove foreign objects
Compressor faultyRepair or replace the compressor
Unpleasant smell inside the refrigeratorThe seal of the packaging of products with a strong odor is brokenPackage products properly
Presence of spoiled food in the refrigeratorRemove spoiled products
The drainage system is cloggedClean the drainage system

DIY refrigerator repair

Freon leak

The most unpleasant malfunction that is difficult to fix with your own hands. But nothing is impossible, if you are confident in your abilities and have the tools, you can repair any refrigerator on your own.

Freon leak localization

It is necessary to inspect all connecting pipes and soldering points for oil and external damage (cracks, kinks, holes), as previously said, freon circulates in the refrigerator along with oil and the place of refrigerant leakage can be marked by an oil puddle. If it was not possible to locate the leak by visual inspection, you will have to search with soap foam. We soap all the adhesions and suspicious places in the tubes on the high pressure side (see the refrigerator operation diagram above) and turn on the refrigerator. The pressure will rise and the leak will make itself known with soap bubbles. Having discovered a freon leak, it is necessary to repair the damage and fill the refrigerator with refrigerant. See the compressor nameplate for the amount of freon and the brand.

At one point, every housewife discovers a puddle of melt water in the kitchen and a refrigerator that categorically refuses to start. The reasons for this phenomenon can be very different, ranging from a lack of voltage in the electrical network to a complex mechanical breakdown.

Of course, some problems can be fixed on your own, however, if we are talking about the failure of a motor or other element, then contacting a service center cannot be avoided.

The most common reasons why the refrigerator does not start

If the refrigeration unit suddenly stops starting, the cause could be a problem in the electrical network. First of all, it could be an electrical cable or plug that goes directly to the refrigerator. At the same time, the problem may be hidden in the outlet itself. Checking the second option is very simple. It is enough to connect any other electrical appliance to the outlet.

If the motor-compressor does not start, but when the door is opened, a light comes on inside the refrigerator, which means that there is no question of damage to the electrical network. The only caveat is that the voltage may be too weak. A symptom of this phenomenon is dimmed main lighting, as well as a possible hum. For example, if the compressor does not start and does not freeze, but begins to hum intensely, then most likely the voltage is really too low. To check, you can use a regular voltmeter, which will confirm or refute this statement.

If everything is in order with the voltage and electrical cable, then the owner will still have to contact a specialized service center and call a technician.

The most common mechanical damage

When preliminary diagnostics have been carried out, and the owner of the refrigerator has realized that it will not be possible to fix it on his own, there may be several mechanical faults. Let's look at each of them in more detail:

  1. Failure of the starting protective relay, which plays the role of a fuse. Without relevant experience, experts categorically do not recommend making the replacement yourself. Among other things, the main problem may not be the breakdown of the element itself, but the banal oxidation of the contacts;
  2. Failure of the temperature sensor or temperature regulator. It is likely that the sensor is simply shorted, or the temperature controller is giving incorrect readings. In this situation, you can check the relevance of the problem yourself. To do this, disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical network, short-circuit the wires leading to the sensor or regulator and start the unit for a few seconds, as shown in the photo. If the motor-compressor starts, then the corresponding element should be replaced;
  3. In some cases, the compressor itself fails. For example, in the case of an inter-turn short circuit, it becomes very hot, but does not start;
  4. There are situations when the cause of failure is oxidized contacts on the control module, or problems with the firmware. In the first option, the technician will simply clean the contacts and return the module to its place. If this approach does not produce results, then the module will have to be removed.

Why doesn't the refrigerator start from a backup power source?

Today, in many country cottages, additional generators are installed to ensure the supply of electricity even as a result of damage to the main electrical network.

In the event that the refrigerator does not start and does not freeze from the generator, it is necessary, first of all, to check the serviceability of the backup source itself. The fact is that there are cases when the unit starts, but the voltage coming from the generator is much less than declared.

If a mobile generator is used as a backup power source, then the problem may be that the refrigerator simply does not have enough starting current for the compressor to start.

Another fairly common reason is the failure of the automatic transfer switch, which is responsible for automatically starting the generator. However, in this case, there will be no electricity at all, which means it is extremely easy to confirm or refute the likelihood of this problem.

It's no secret that correct installation of the refrigerator plays an important role. First of all, experts strongly recommend paying special attention to correct installation. In this case, we are talking about the correspondence of the horizontal and vertical planes. At first glance, there is nothing critical about this, but, in fact, it is non-compliance with the planes that can cause the starting protective relay to malfunction.

Another important nuance concerns the presence of protection against voltage surges in the electrical network. The fact is that in most residential buildings, so-called “surges” occur from time to time, which have an extremely negative effect on all electrical devices. To neutralize this influence, it is necessary to connect all devices, including the refrigerator, through a special rectifier, or, in other words, a stabilizer. As additional protection, you can use an uninterruptible power supply. In the event of too strong a voltage drop, as well as a sudden power outage, the built-in battery will be able to ensure the operation of the equipment for some time. Of course, given the high energy consumption, the unit will not be able to “power” the refrigerator for a very long time, but it will allow the owner to carefully turn off the unit, and will also become an additional assistant to the stabilizer.

Among other things, experts strongly recommend following all instructions specified in the equipment passport. In this case, the refrigeration equipment will function stably and uninterruptedly for a very long time.

The situation when the refrigerator does not turn on is quite unpleasant, especially if it happens in warm weather. There may be several reasons for this. But if the device is no more than 5 years old, as a rule, the sources of the problem are trivial and can be fixed without the help of a technician. If the refrigerator does not turn on, this article will describe the reasons and solutions to the problems.

Where to start the renovation?

As a rule, when a technician arrives on call, the first thing he does is plug in the device and look at the light bulb: whether it is on or not. This is also a good place to start when doing your own repairs.

If the light bulb does not light, then the reason for this may be a lack of current. Accordingly, the reason must be sought at its source.

Procedure:

  1. Unplug the refrigerator.
  2. Inspect the outlet. If no visible defects are found, check for the presence of current in it using
  3. If the socket is working properly, you need to check the wire and plug of the device itself. If there are visible breaks, it is best to replace the cord completely, rather than cutting it and twisting it with electrical tape; such a repair does not meet safety requirements. If the cord is not visually damaged, it must be tested with a multimeter and, if necessary, replaced.

Network instability

There may be a problem with the power source even if the light in the refrigerator is on.

Modern refrigerators, both imported and domestic, are designed for a certain voltage in the network, which may differ from what is actually supplied. In the event of differences or discrepancies, such units operate intermittently. Power surges can occur even if a neighbor is carrying out repair work using an electric drill. To dampen sudden changes in the network, it is best to connect expensive equipment through voltage stabilizers. This will maintain proper operation of the device and increase its service life.

Thermostat malfunction

A breakdown of the temperature control system is one of the most common breakdowns in such equipment. With this breakdown, the refrigerator does not “click”, that is, there is no attempt by the compressor to start and start working.

Modern refrigerators have two temperature control systems: a thermostat in mechanical models and a sensor in digital refrigerators. In simple terms, as soon as the temperature begins to rise, a signal is sent to the device, which causes the refrigerator engine to start.

Checking the thermostat is not difficult - it is connected by a terminal and there are only two wires. Usually the sensor is located next to the light bulb, in one block. Disconnect the wires and short them. If this action causes the compressor to start working, the cause of the malfunction has been found. The fix is ​​quite simple. It is necessary to buy a part that has failed in a specialized store. It is best to come with old components to accurately select the right model. The average price is about 1,500 rubles. Replace the failed element with a new one. Just remember that all repair work can only be carried out with the device disconnected from the network.

Refrigerator won't turn on after defrosting

A similar malfunction can occur after a standard procedure. It may be that the defrosting process happened as usual: after turning it off, the device was washed and dried, but when it was connected to the network, it did not freeze, although all the sensors were turned on and indicate they were working. There are several possible reasons for this situation:

Another reason, quite common, is a breakdown of the compressor, which is considered the “heart” of the device and is designed to circulate freon. And here, too, you cannot do without the help of a specialist.

The compressor has failed

If the light in the refrigeration equipment is on, characteristic clicks are heard, and the refrigerator does not turn on, then the reason is almost always in the compressor. Without experience, it is difficult to independently check and diagnose this breakdown. Therefore, in order to identify the problem, it is best to call a qualified technician who will diagnose the device.

If your refrigerator turns on and off almost immediately, the compressor may also be the cause. Most likely, a short circuit occurred in the interturn winding. Therefore, the compressor operates at high speed and becomes very hot. At this moment, the protective relay is activated and the refrigerator turns on immediately. In modern models, the compressor is a non-separable part, so you will have to replace it completely. Often such repairs are impractical, and it is more profitable to buy a new refrigerator.

The start protection relay has failed

This is a common cause of failure due to which the refrigerator compressor does not turn on. This part is responsible for starting the engine when it receives a signal from the thermostat. If the relay is not functioning properly, it must be replaced. This is not an expensive part that you can replace yourself.

The control module is malfunctioning

If everything described earlier during the diagnosis was not confirmed, then most likely the control module in the refrigerator - a kind of brain of the device - has failed. This can happen even with completely new equipment, since the voltage in modern networks leaves much to be desired and even a slight jump can cause a breakdown. Characteristic behavior of the device: the refrigerator turns on and immediately turns off, since signals to the compressor are received in a disorderly manner. In this case, the electronic board must be replaced.

Conclusion

But it is worth noting that for any reason of breakdown, when the refrigerator does not turn on and the consumer has little understanding of this equipment, it is better to call a qualified technician. A professional has the necessary equipment, will make the necessary diagnostics and repair the unit. This will be much simpler and cheaper, since the average person can simply waste time and extra money on buying unnecessary parts.