Heating system in private wooden. Heating system of a private house
Water heating of a private house is a popular, but quite expensive pleasure, because you need to buy pipes, radiators, a boiler, etc. Therefore, we will save on installation, and our article will help you with this.
Why water heating?
The carrier is water, and its heat capacity is 4000 times greater than that of air, and it is one of the cheapest and most accessible resources. But there is, and more than one, fly in the ointment. The installation process cannot be considered simple, and if you plan to install a gas boiler, then you need the appropriate permit, plan, etc. In addition, work can only be carried out at the construction stage. And if you need to organize floor heating, then the scheme becomes even more complicated.
This type of heating also requires constant monitoring. If you are planning to leave your home for a long period in winter, then the media should be drained. Otherwise, at sub-zero temperatures it will turn into ice and simply rupture the pipeline. Everyone knows that water contains various impurities that contribute to the corrosion of metal elements that any system contains. And salt deposits on the inside of the pipes prevent free flow and impair heat transfer. And finally, if a special bleeder valve is not installed, air locks may occur in the system. They also significantly reduce efficiency.
Types of structures for heating a home
Heating with water as a carrier has a very simple principle of operation, and its design consists of three main components: a heating element (boiler), a pipeline through which the liquid passes, and radiators. The latter heat up and give off heat to the environment. The coolant gradually cools down and, having passed a circle through the system, returns back to the boiler, and the cycle repeats again.
There are two ways to regulate the microclimate. The first is to set the boiler to the desired temperature, the second is to change the coolant flow in a specific radiator using a special tap. They are installed at the input of each battery. In addition, there is automatic regulation via a thermostat. If the house has a two-pipe system, then a bypass must be installed in front of each faucet or thermostat.
Systems are also divided into natural and forced. In the first case, heating operates independently of electricity, and the design itself is extremely simple. The liquid flows through the pipes due to the temperature difference without the help of any pump. Hot water has less density and weight, so it tends to rise, and when it cools, it becomes denser and returns back to the heater. Minuses:
- a large number of pipes;
- the diameter of the pipeline must ensure natural circulation;
- It is impossible to use modern radiators with a small cross-section.
In forced systems, coolant circulation occurs due to the operation of the pump, and all excess liquid enters the expansion tank. A pressure gauge is provided to control the pressure. The advantages include low coolant consumption. You can also install pipes of any diameter, including small ones. The system is highly efficient. There is only one drawback – the pump’s dependence on electricity.
What could be the wiring?
We already know the types of water heating systems for private houses, but before considering the features of installation with your own hands, we should talk in more detail about the schemes: discuss what they are, what are the advantages and disadvantages of each option. The layout can be top or bottom, horizontal and vertical, or combined.
There are single-pipe systems in which heating devices are connected in series, and the liquid passes through each of them in turn. Naturally, it gradually cools, and in order to compensate for this temperature difference, resistors with a large number of sections should be installed at the end of the line. In two-pipe systems, devices are connected to the riser in parallel. Advantages: quick temperature adjustment and more uniform heating of the home. The collector pipe arrangement is characterized by the presence of two connected pipelines (supply and return). In this case, complete control of all batteries is possible.
The popular water heating scheme in private homes, which includes additional floor heating, deserves attention, and by installing such a system yourself, you get very noticeable savings. In this case, radiators can act as the main heating elements or additional ones.
If the underfloor heating system does not operate throughout the entire house, but only in some areas, then a thermostatic valve must be installed in each individual circuit. This device reduces the temperature of the fluid returning from the system. The thermostatic head reacts to the water temperature, and if it is too hot, the valve closes. When the location of the heated floor is far from the collector, preference should be given to special valves. They can be placed in a wall box, and thanks to their design features they are easy to connect. A deaeration valve is also installed together. This method is good if the area of the heated floor does not exceed 15 square meters.
But when the house is heated mainly through heated floors, and radiators play only an additional role, then the system consists of two separate functioning units. Each subsystem must be equipped with a pump. To reduce the temperature of the coolant below the floor surface, it is necessary to use a three-way mixing valve. This device also regulates the heating power. And the heating of the radiators is monitored by thermostats installed on them.
Installation and safety requirements
In this paragraph we will look at how to carry out water heating with your own hands.
How to make water heating for a private house with your own hands - step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Project
To begin, select a suitable diagram and display it on paper. Consider the area of the rooms, the position of radiators, pipelines, their sizes, etc. Such a sketch will help to correctly calculate the amount of consumables. Special programs will greatly simplify all calculations.
Step 2: Accessories
Let's briefly look at what a boiler, batteries and pipes can look like. Depending on the fuel used, types of heating units are gas, electric, and combined. Gas devices can rightfully be called a favorite among these options. Water boilers come with a pump (for a forced heating scheme for a private house) or without it (natural circulation), and both types can be installed with your own hands. The dual-circuit unit has proven itself to be excellent, providing not only heat in the house, but also hot water.
Radiators are divided into steel, cast iron, bimetallic and aluminum.
They will please you with the price, but at the same time they are susceptible to corrosion, and if you plan to drain the coolant, their service life will be significantly reduced. Cast iron, on the contrary, can be said to be an eternal material. It takes a long time to heat up, but also retains heat for a long time. But the heavy weight, not very attractive appearance and high cost have significantly reduced the popularity of this material. Cast iron batteries were replaced by aluminum ones. Their appearance is very attractive, they heat up quickly and are resistant to corrosion. However, aluminum does not tolerate sudden changes in pressure. Bimetallic resistors are famous for their excellent heat dissipation, however, their anti-corrosion properties remain the same as those of aluminum.
The steel pipeline has lost its former glory due to its short service life. It has been replaced by modern polypropylene. Easy installation, the ability to create a “solid” structure, reasonable cost and reliability - all these are undeniable advantages. Copper pipes also have good characteristics, but their cost is not affordable for everyone.
Step 3: Boiler
Water heating in a private house is designed in such a way that the medium is heated by a boiler. This scheme is the most optimal in the absence of centralized supply. Therefore, when choosing a place to install the boiler, you should take into account the location of the gas pipeline entry or the presence of electrical wiring. If we are talking about a solid fuel unit, then additional installation of the chimney is necessary. If you prefer natural circulation of the coolant, then position the heating unit so that the return inlet is as low as possible. In this case, a basement is ideal.
Step 4: Installation of radiators
Batteries are placed under windows or near doorways. The design of the fastening depends on the material of the resistors and the number of sections. The heavier they are, the more reliable fixation they need. A gap of at least 10 cm should be left between the radiators and the window sills, and more than 6 cm to the floor. By installing shut-off valves on each element, you can regulate the amount of coolant in the radiators, and the air valve will help avoid unwanted traffic jams.
Step 5: Wiring
The boiler will be the starting point for the installation of the pipeline. In this case, you should adhere to the scheme chosen and sketched on paper. If the pipes are visible, then we are talking about open wiring. On the one hand, the aesthetic side suffers, but on the other, any leak will remain visible, and to replace the damaged element, you do not need to disassemble the box. The pipeline can also be hidden, walled up in the wall, sheathed with plasterboard, etc. At this stage, batteries and additional equipment (pump, filters, safety unit, expansion tank, etc.) are connected.
If you need to create or modernize heating in a private home, then it is better to first spend an hour or two studying the issue, collecting expert opinions, and in particular, reading this material - consider the most common situations and time-tested solutions.
Knowledge of the issue is the key to success. Even if the heating in the house will not be done independently, then it is better for the owner to speak with visiting installers in their language. It will be easier to control the correctness and budget of the process; you will be able to purchase materials yourself, which means significant savings. Therefore, learning how a heating system is made is beneficial.
How does heating work?
For an ordinary residential building, in the vast majority of cases, a water system with forced circulation of liquid is used. The coolant moves through the pipes under the influence of the pump, heating the radiators, which heat the air. Energy is generated in the boiler.
Everything that does not correspond to this is called “rarity”, and experts also call it “wildness” - it will be so inferior in consumer qualities for residents of a house with a usual area of 70 - 500 square meters.
What does it consist of?
A number of components and assemblies are always used in heating, which are worth learning about in more detail.
- A boiler is a heat generator that burns fuel and heats water (coolant).
- Circulation pump - can not only be installed separately, but is also part of an automated boiler, like some other elements. The coolant moves through the pipes.
- Pipes - modern plastic and metal-plastic products are used, selected by diameter.
- Radiators - transfer energy to the air.
- The expansion tank is a mandatory element; it maintains stable pressure during thermal expansion of water. Protects the system from accidents.
- Safety group - can be part of the boiler or separately, includes a safety valve, automatic air vent, pressure gauge. Must be installed in any closed system.
- The cleaning filter is a small required element.
This is the minimum of a conventional system. If this is installed correctly, for which fittings and taps are used, then the heating will begin to warm the house.
Additional system elements
- Ball valves – two operating modes “open-close”.
- Balancing valves - similar to ordinary taps - fine tuning of the system.
- Three-way valves are automatic flow regulators.
- Thermal heads are devices that control valves depending on temperature and manual settings.
- Mayevsky taps are manual air vents for releasing air.
What to drown with
First of all, the owners are concerned with the question of how to heat the house. Each locality has its own priorities.
- Many homes are now heated with natural gas from mains. It is a cheap and convenient type of fuel. If there is a gas pipe, then there is nothing to think about, you need to connect and install a gas boiler.
- But you can also often find heating with wood in solid fuel boilers. It's cheap in most areas. But it's not convenient. To simplify the combustion process, the system is supplemented with a buffer tank, or, worse, with complex devices that are not of the best quality - long-burning boilers.
- Coal is displacing firewood in some coal-producing regions where it is cheap.
- Pellets are “automated firewood”, more convenient, but expensive.
- Electricity is slowly replacing firewood, as it is very convenient, and at night tariffs it is tolerable in price. But at a daily rate it is too expensive.
It is advisable to thermally insulate the floor and organize underfloor heating.
After these measures, if they are carried out properly, the house will be warm...
Read more about how to make heating
Heating in the house is done in the following sequence.
- A decision is made on the connection diagram of heating devices, their placement points and, accordingly, the location of the pipelines are determined. The power of the equipment and other technical parameters are determined (a project is drawn up!…)
- A place for the boiler is selected and the boiler is installed, possibly according to a house gasification project, perhaps in connection with the connection of a natural draft chimney.
- The boiler is plumbed, a pipeline and the necessary equipment are installed to ensure the operation of it and the entire system.
- Radiators are distributed and installed in rooms in accordance with the required heating power for each room. You can read this question
- A pipeline is laid, radiators and a boiler with its own piping are connected.
- The system is filled with coolant and tested.
We tie the boiler
Automated boilers, as a rule, contain in their housing both a pump and a safety group, and sometimes an expansion tank. All their piping consists of installing shut-off valves.
For a solid fuel boiler, a pump, an expansion tank, a safety group, temperature control are installed, and automation and control units are also possible.
In complex systems, all this is supplemented by a hydraulic arrow (or a primary ring circuit) with additional pumps on each branch, and it is also possible to install a buffer tank and a DHW boiler.
In the simplest version, the solid fuel boiler needs to be properly tied -
Elements that occur in complex systems
Old systems are not used
It was mentioned that in the modern concept, the coolant should move under the influence of a pump. Everything that is gravity-fed is an anachronism, not practical, not functional, and twice as expensive.
Also, according to modern ideas, the heating system should be two-pipe, and a single-pipe one is expensive both to create and to operate, bulky and does not provide... Its price is increased due to the large diameter of the pipes and fittings, and the ring diagram creates both installation difficulties and difficulty in ensuring the same temperature radiators.
Choose a scheme - one of three
How to combine heating with design
Nowadays, more and more people are trying to remove not only the pipes under the floor, but also the radiators themselves. They install in-floor convectors, which, although more expensive, do not clutter up the interior. The presence of heating with them will be reminded by a decorative grille under the window sills, under the entrance doors...
An intermediate option is more practical in operation - hide the pipes under the floor, leave radiators on the walls with bottom connections - the pipes come out of the floor under the radiators.
In this case, the wiring under the floor can be according to any scheme, but the cheapest and most practical is a dead-end one with branches of thinner pipes from the main line. Under the floor, it is allowed to install compression fittings on metal-plastic pipes. Often the connection of radiators is combined with the installation of heated floors in the same space.
Select pipes and radiators
The cheapest option and easy to do yourself is to install a system of polypropylene pipes... But I can't recommend it. He is the most unreliable. This is due to the impossibility of ensuring standard connection quality and nominal pipe clearance in welded joints.
One can argue for a long time about the selection of radiators... but any that can be found in a store will be suitable for a private home.
Radiators must be connected and installed according to the rules...
Installation
Now all that’s left to do is to put together all the elements that were designed. By the way, of course it is better to use a ready-made heating project, if available...
And if this is known, then the heating system should work properly... Remaining
Properly organizing home heating is not an easy task. It is clear that specialists - designers and installers - can handle it best. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the entire range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.
Regardless of which heating option is chosen, you need to have a good understanding of all stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its goal is to help you solve the problem of installing heating yourself or competently supervise hired specialists and installers.
Heating system elements
In the vast majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated with water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the issue, which has an undeniable advantage - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms using a coolant, and it can be heated using various energy carriers. We will consider their list further when choosing a boiler.
Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy carriers.
Any heating system, where the coolant serves as the transfer link, is divided into the following components:
- heat source;
- pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
- heating devices (radiators or heating circuits for underfloor heating).
For the purpose of processing and regulating the coolant, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following items:
- expansion tank;
- circulation pump;
- hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
- buffer capacity;
- distribution manifold;
- indirect heating boiler;
- devices and automation equipment.
Note. A mandatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank; other equipment is installed as needed.
It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a confined space there is nowhere for its additional volume to go. To avoid rupture of connections due to increased pressure in the network, an open or membrane type expansion tank is installed. She takes in excess water.
Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and if there are several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a hydraulic separator and a heat accumulator. Separating the boiler circulation circuit from all others is practiced in complex systems of cottages with several floors.
Collectors for coolant distribution are installed in heating systems with heated floors or in cases where a radial battery connection scheme is used, we will discuss this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil where water for domestic hot water needs is heated from the coolant. To visually monitor the temperature and pressure of water in the system, thermometers and pressure gauges are installed. Automation tools (sensors, thermostats, controllers, servos) not only control the parameters of the coolant, but also regulate them automatically.
Shut-off valves
In addition to the equipment listed, the water heating of the house is controlled and maintained using shut-off and control valves shown in the table:
Once you have become familiar with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.
Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power
It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. All sellers of heating equipment like to use the first method, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is a calculation of thermal power based on the area of heated premises.
They take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 W. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing up the indicators for all rooms. We suggest a more accurate method:
- by 100 W, multiply the area of those premises where only 1 wall, on which there is 1 window, is in contact with the street;
- if the room is a corner one with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
- when a room has 2 external walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130 W.
If we consider power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may not receive enough heat, and residents of the south of Ukraine may overpay for equipment that is too powerful. Using the second, calculation method, heating design is carried out by specialists. It is more accurate, as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.
Before you begin the calculations, you need to measure the house, finding out the area of the walls, windows and doors. Then you need to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which the walls, floors and roofs are built. For all materials in the reference literature or on the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W/(m ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):
R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.
Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer and then sum the results.
Now you can find out the amount of heat lost through the external building structure using the formula:
- QTP = 1/R x (tв – tн) x S, where:
- QТП – lost amount of heat, W;
- S is the previously measured area of the building structure, m2;
- tв – here you need to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
- tн – street temperature in the coldest period, ºС.
Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, alternately substituting into the formula the values of thermal resistance and area for the external wall, window, door, floors and roof. Then all these results must be summed up, this will be the heat loss of the given room. The area of internal partitions does not need to be taken into account!
Heat consumption for ventilation
To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, you need to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that’s not all, because we must also take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:
Qair = cm (tв – tн), where:
- Qair – required amount of heat for ventilation, W;
- m – amount of air by mass, defined as the internal volume of the building multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
- (tв – tн) – as in the previous formula;
- с – heat capacity of air masses, is taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).
To determine the heat demand for the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The boiler power is taken with a reserve for the optimal operating mode, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. Here you need to take into account an important point: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for domestic hot water supply, then the power reserve must be increased. The boiler must operate effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.
At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the energy carrier or type of fuel used. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with a brief description of their pros and cons. To heat residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of household heat generators:
- solid fuel;
- gas;
- electrical;
- on liquid fuel.
The following video will help you choose an energy carrier, and then a heat source:
Solid fuel boilers
They are divided into 3 types: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to their low operating costs, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connecting to it is often more expensive than all the heating equipment including installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are being purchased by people more and more often.
On the other hand, operating a solid fuel heat source is very similar to simple stove heating. You need to spend time and effort to prepare, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. The unit also requires serious piping to ensure its long-lasting and safe operation. After all, a conventional solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, the heating of water does not stop immediately. And efficient use of generated energy is possible only if there is a heat accumulator.
Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis units - 80%, and pellet units - no more than 83%.
The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator, characterized by a high level of automation and virtually no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent trips to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.
Gas boilers
An excellent option is to install heating that operates on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest energy-independent unit is at least 87%, and the efficiency of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and trips to the boiler room are needed only to monitor or change settings. A budget unit will be much cheaper than a solid fuel unit, so gas boilers can be considered generally available.
Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity of gas equipment is steadily declining.
Electric boilers
It must be said that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only are the efficiency of boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys or ventilation. There is practically no maintenance of the units as such, except for cleaning once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: equipment and installation are very cheap, and the degree of automation can be any. The boiler simply does not need your attention.
No matter how pleasant the advantages of an electric boiler are, the main disadvantage is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you will not be able to beat a wood-burning heat generator in terms of this indicator. This is the price to pay for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second disadvantage is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can immediately cancel out all thoughts about electric heating.
Liquid fuel boilers
In terms of the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating with waste oil or diesel fuel will cost approximately the same as with natural gas. Their efficiency indicators are also similar, although the processing, for obvious reasons, is somewhat inferior. Another thing is that this type of heating can easily be called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end with at least the smell of diesel fuel or dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot up to your waist.
Using diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution; the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Used oil has also risen in price, unless you have some cheap source. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, a main gas supply. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the exhaust furnace will not be able to burn methane.
Heating system diagrams for a private home
Heating systems sold in private housing construction can be single-pipe or double-pipe. It's easy to distinguish them:
- according to a single-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both a supply and a return, passing by all the batteries in the form of a closed ring;
- in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe and returned through the other.
Choosing a heating system layout for a private home is not an easy task; consultation with a specialist will certainly not hurt. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about the low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe one, but also more complex. This topic is covered in great detail in the video:
The fact is that in a single-pipe system, the water from radiator to radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe distribution lines. And lastly: automatic control with a single-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.
In a small house or dacha with up to 5 radiators, you can safely implement a single-pipe horizontal circuit (common name - Leningradka). With a larger number of heating devices, it will not be able to function normally, because the last radiators will be cold.
Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes occur quite often and work successfully.
With a two-pipe distribution, the coolant is delivered to all radiators at the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. Dividing the lines into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries using thermostatic valves.
The diameters of the pipelines are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are the following types of two-pipe schemes:
dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (arms), through which the coolant moves along the highways towards each other;
associated two-pipe system: here the return manifold is, as it were, a continuation of the supply, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;
collector (radial). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the installation method is hidden, in the floor.
If you take horizontal lines of larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then a circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. To be fair, we note that both single-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function without a pump. If only conditions were created for natural water circulation.
The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion tank at the highest point, communicating with the atmosphere. This solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If you install a membrane-type expansion tank on the return line near the boiler, the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern option, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of coolant.
It is impossible not to mention the method of heating a house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive, since you will need to lay hundreds of meters of pipes in a screed, resulting in a heating water circuit in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important advantage is the economical, uniform heating of rooms, which is very comfortable for people. Underfloor heating circuits are clearly recommended for use in any residential buildings.
Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can safely recommend adopting a conventional two-pipe circuit with forced circulation of coolant. Then the diameters of the mains will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.
Heating system installation
We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources that burn different types of fuel and have an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.
For natural water movement, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the ground floor radiators.
The location where the heat generator will be located must be selected taking into account the minimum permissible distances to walls or other equipment. Typically these intervals are specified in the manual supplied with the product. If this data is not available, then we adhere to the following rules:
- passage width on the front side of the boiler is 1 m;
- if there is no need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
- distance to the nearest equipment – 0.7 m;
- when placing two boilers next to each other, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, and opposite each other - 2 m.
Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not needed; you only need to maintain clearance in front of the unit for ease of maintenance.
Boiler connection
It should be noted that the wiring of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is almost the same. Here we must take into account that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models are equipped with an expansion tank. First, let's look at the connection diagram for a simple gas or diesel unit:
The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a membrane expansion tank and forced circulation. This tying method is the most common. The pump with a bypass line and a sump tank is located on the return line, and there is also an expansion tank there. The pressure is controlled using pressure gauges, and air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.
Note. Piping an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.
When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for domestic hot water needs, the pipe layout and installation of elements is as follows:
Shown here is a wall-mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial flue is used, which is led out horizontally through the wall. If the firebox of the unit is open, then you need a traditional chimney with good natural draft. How to properly install a chimney pipe made of sandwich modules is shown in the figure:
In country houses with a large area, it is often necessary to connect a boiler with several heating circuits - a radiator, heated floors and an indirect heating boiler for DHW needs. In such a situation, the optimal solution would be to use a hydraulic separator. It will allow you to organize independent circulation of coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time serve as a distribution comb for the remaining branches. Then the basic heating diagram for a two-story house will look like this:
According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, thanks to which it operates independently of the others. Since coolant with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to heated floors, three-way valves are used on these branches. They add hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the heated floor circuits drops.
With solid fuel heat generators the situation is more complicated. Their strapping should take into account 2 points:
- possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit; the firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
- formation of condensation when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.
To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return side, and on the supply side there should be a safety group located immediately behind the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is crucial; it is the valve that will relieve excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following strapping diagram is required:
Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not allow water from the system into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 °C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:
Advice. Due to the nature of their operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:
Many homeowners install two different heat sources in the furnace room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. For this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and an electric boiler working together with radiator heating.
The second scheme combines a gas and wood heat generator, supplying heat to heat the house and prepare water for hot water supply:
To install the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. The modern market offers several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private homes:
- steel;
- copper;
- stainless steel;
- polypropylene (PPR);
- polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
- metal-plastic.
Heating lines made of ordinary “ferrous” metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and “overgrowth” of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to independently install such pipes: you need good welding skills to make a hermetically sealed joint. However, some homeowners still use steel pipes to this day when they install autonomous heating at home.
Copper or stainless steel pipes are an excellent choice, but they are too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if you have the means, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skills, and stainless steel is joined using dismountable or press fittings. Preference should be given to the latter, especially when the installation is hidden.
Advice. For piping boilers and laying pipelines within the boiler room, it is best to use any type of metal pipes.
Heating made from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, you need to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only advantage, since installing heating from polypropylene pipes is quite a complex and responsible task. And in appearance, polypropylene is inferior to other plastic products.
The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are made by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will certainly leak later, but if it is overheated, the melted polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, you won’t be able to see this during assembly; flaws will make themselves known later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid “saber” bends, the pipe must be mounted on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.
It is much easier to make your own heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are the most convenient, since the joints here are made quite simply. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: connections must be made using press fittings, not collapsible ones.
Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water-heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that it tends to return to its original state, which can cause the installed heating manifold to appear slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a “memory” and easily bend as you need. More information about choosing pipes is described in the video:
An ordinary homeowner, going to a heating equipment store and seeing a wide selection of different radiators there, can conclude that choosing batteries for his home is not so easy. But this is the first impression; in fact, there are not so many varieties of them:
- aluminum;
- bimetallic;
- steel panel and tubular;
- cast iron.
Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.
Sectional batteries made of aluminum alloy have the best heat transfer rates; bimetallic heaters are not far behind them. The difference between the two is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This was done for the purpose of using the devices in centralized heat supply systems of high-rise buildings, where the pressure can be quite high. Therefore, installing bimetallic radiators in a private cottage makes no sense at all.
It should be noted that heating installation in a private home will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer rates are lower than those of aluminum ones, but in practice you are unlikely to feel the difference. As for reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to designer ones.
Steel and aluminum heating devices have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic control using thermostatic valves. The same cannot be said about massive cast iron batteries, on which it is pointless to install such valves. This is due to the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time and then retain heat for some time. Also because of this, the rate of heating of the premises is reduced.
If we touch on the issue of appearance aesthetics, then the cast-iron retro radiators currently offered are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost incredible amounts of money, and inexpensive Soviet-style accordions MS-140 are only suitable for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion suggests itself:
For a private home, buy those heating devices that you like best and are comfortable with in terms of cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and thermal power.
Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators
The number of sections or the size of a panel radiator is selected based on the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning; it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for a temperature difference between the coolant and the air in the room equal to 70 °C. To do this, the water in the battery must warm up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.
It turns out that the real thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than that indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper heating of the premises, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer margin is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you must take heating devices with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.
Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank external walls. In this case, connection to highways can be done in several ways:
- lateral one-sided;
- diagonal scalene;
- lower - if the radiator has appropriate pipes.
The lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when connecting it to risers, and the diagonal connection to horizontally laid highways. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat evenly.
When a single-pipe heating system is installed, the lower versatile connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:
There are models of radiators where the design provides for connection of pipes from below. Such devices have internal wiring and, in fact, they have a one-sided side circuit. This can be clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.
A lot of useful information on the issue of choosing heating devices can be found by watching the video:
5 common mistakes during installation
Of course, when installing a heating system, you can make many more than five mistakes, but we will highlight the 5 most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:
- incorrect choice of heat source;
- errors in heat generator piping;
- incorrectly selected heating system;
- careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
- improper installation and connection of heating devices.
A boiler with insufficient power is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat rooms, but also to prepare water for domestic hot water needs. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the hot water system will not heat up to the required temperature.
Parts play not only a functional role, but also serve safety purposes. For example, it is recommended to install the pump on the return pipeline just before the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is installing a tap in the area between the boiler and the safety group; this is absolutely unacceptable.
Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, you cannot place the pump in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the coolant flow).
The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point; with a closed circuit, it is placed on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a mud trap mounted in a horizontal position with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines using American connections.
When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incurring additional costs to bring it to fruition. Most often, errors occur when installing single-pipe systems, when they try to “hang” more than 5 radiators on one branch, which then do not heat up. Flaws during the installation of the system include failure to comply with slopes, poor-quality connections and installation of the wrong fittings.
For example, a thermostatic valve or a regular ball valve is placed at the inlet of the radiator, and a balancing valve is installed at the outlet to adjust the heating system. If pipes are installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down along the way. When joining polypropylene pipes, you must scrupulously adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.
Choosing a coolant
It is well known that filtered and, if possible, desalted water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, for example, periodic heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with a non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all regular rubber gaskets from the system. Antifreeze quickly causes them to become limp and leaks occur.
Attention! Not every boiler can work with non-freezing liquid, which is shown in its technical data sheet. This must be checked when purchasing it.
As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through a make-up valve and a check valve. During the filling process, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and manual Mayevsky taps. In a closed circuit, pressure is monitored using a pressure gauge. Usually when cold it is in the range of 1.2-1.5 Bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 Bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the replenishment when it flows out of the overflow pipe.
Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system using a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. To ensure that the process is not interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of appropriate capacity, from where it must be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into the expansion tank.
Conclusion
If you carefully understand all the nuances, it becomes clear that installing a heating system in a private house on your own is quite possible. But you must understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including monitoring the installation if you decide to hire specialists for this.
This is a very important question. If there is an error in choosing a heating system the rooms will be cold, or expenses for heating will be completely unbearable.
DIY heating connection diagrams for a private house
Exists several types heating systems for a private home that you can do yourself.
Single pipe systems
Key element - boiler. In it, the coolant is heated, passes through the heating system and returns back to the boiler, where the water is heated again.
Serves as a cold water intake pipe second part of the system. The entire system is circular and closed in a continuous cycle.
Single-pipe systems are:
- Closed- does not communicate with the surrounding air, and if there is excess pressure inside, excess air is removed manually. The volume of liquid in the system is constant.
- Open- have a leaky expansion tank into which excess air is forced out. Pipes passing through the house are located above heating devices (to displace air into the container).
It comes out of the water heating boiler one pipe and, sequentially running around all the radiators, returns back.
- low cost;
- the flow of water is directed at will;
- ease of installation;
- the system can be mounted under the wall or under the floor;
- use of any boiler(solid fuel, gas, electric);
- All elements of the system are connected to the distribution pipe.
- High cost.
- The water temperature decreases from one battery to another, and if there are many radiators connected, then the last one is already cold. To heat all the rooms, the heating temperature must be greatly increased, which entails additional costs.
- Running coolant requires high pressure, for which an additional pump is installed.
- High system pressure causes wear(a large number of leaks occur).
- A system that It has not been used for a long time and is difficult to start.
- Without installing the proper slope, air plugs may occur in the chain., which makes heat transfer difficult.
- It is not possible to repair a single link without shutting down the entire system.
Horizontal
The principle of operation is circulation through a closed horizontal coolant circuit, which enters and exits the same boiler.
Photo 1. Horizontal single-pipe heating system with a main pipe from which wiring goes to the batteries.
From the heating boiler, the main pipe is laid horizontally (on the floor or under the floor), from which branches are made to the radiators. If the house is two-story, then on the first floor a riser cuts into the main pipe to supply water to the second floor.
Attention! The main pipe is being laid on a slight slope(with natural coolant circulation), while the batteries must be installed at the same level.
If the structure is mounted on the floor, then the pipes are insulated so that there is no excess heat transfer.
- ease of installation;
- cheapness;
- if the system is equipped with bypasses, then the difference in temperature is small;
- dismantling one battery does not require shutting down the entire system;
- the coolant circulation will be quite fast.
- temperature adjustment on individual radiators is not possible;
- when repairing one link, the entire system must be stopped;
- The difference in temperature between the first and last radiator is very large.
The connection can be:
- Flow-through(severe heat loss, not recommended for small rooms).
- With bypasses(the bypass diameter should be smaller than that of the main pipe. Part of the water goes to the radiator, the rest moves further through the system).
- Nizhny(possibly with forced passage of liquid).
- Diagonal(better for heat transfer).
Important! If the system is mounted for a two-story house, then the equipment must include a pump for forced circulation of liquid.
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Vertical
All batteries in parallel connected to vertical risers. It is advisable to install this system in buildings with more than two storeys. The heated coolant flows from top to bottom.
The heated coolant supply from the boiler goes to the top of the tank and from there it diverges along the conductive line to the radiators. The cooled liquid is returned to the boiler.
- ease of installation;
- uniform heat distribution;
- when renovating one floor, it is not necessary to turn off the other;
- good natural current.
- high pipe consumption;
- heating large rooms is difficult.
Installation nuances:
- The presence of an expansion tank is mandatory here. Installed at the peak point (attic).
- It is advisable to install one Mayevsky crane on the floor.
- The main pipe is laid with a slight slope.
Only metal pipes can be attached to the boiler.
Project of the Leningradka scheme
The heated coolant leaves the heating boiler, sequentially passes through all connected heating devices and returns back.
"Leningradka" can be:
- vertical;
- horizontal;
- with top or bottom wiring.
The main pipe is being laid along the outer walls of the building, encircling it around the perimeter. All heating devices, including heated floors, are connected to this pipe. Allowed into the system inset of modern elements(pump, thermostatic valves, bypasses, etc.).
Photo 2. Diagram of the Leningradka heating system with a circulation pump, four radiators and an expansion tank.
- possibility of connecting several heating boilers;
- low cost;
- low pipe consumption.
- use of large diameter pipes so that the entire system works efficiently;
- Air locks often form in the system;
- to the system You can connect heated floors or a heated towel rail, but the power is not enough for full-fledged operation.
When assembling the system, the following points must be taken into account:
- If the main pipe is laid below floor level, then In addition, thermal insulation must be used to avoid overheating of the floor.
- The main pipe is pulled with a slight slope.
- The expansion tank must be installed close to the boiler.
- The pump can only be installed after the expansion tank along the flow of the coolant.
- Installation heating carried out before any finishing work begins.
- Radiators are located only on one level.
Important! Due to excessive airing of the chain, use Mayevsky cranes Necessarily.
During installation, sudden changes in height must be avoided, since in this case, traffic jams are guaranteed.
Two-pipe with bottom wiring
The main difference between this system and a single-pipe system is the number of pipes: hot water is supplied through one, and cold water is discharged through the other.
Both pipes(both feeding and collecting) are located below under the batteries. The hot coolant pipe is laid above the return pipe. The liquid moves through the system from bottom to top.
Exists two connection methods batteries:
- ray— each radiator is connected to the main pipe by separate connections;
- consistent.
The system can be installed with:
- passing contour(liquid in both pipes moves in the same direction);
- dead end(coolant moves in different directions);
- one;
- several.
- autonomy of floor heating;
- possibility of operation until the construction of the house is stopped;
- low heat loss due to installation features;
- the central unit can be placed in the basement.
- airiness systems - air bleeding must be carried out daily;
- when installing an overhead line system becomes unnecessarily bulky;
- high consumption of materials(especially for radial connection);
- adjustment should be carried out before the onset of cold weather;
- low pressure in the supply coolant.
When laying the chain, the following points must be taken into account:
- Radiators are additionally equipped with Mayevsky taps to remove air from the system (air vents can be installed).
- If the system is installed in a multi-story building, then laying an overhead line, through which excess air is discharged into the expansion tank.
- If the main pipe ends up near the front door during installation, it can be divided into 2 elbows.
Two-pipe with top wiring
This system is good in houses with several floors. The heated coolant under pressure goes from bottom to top into the tank, and from there through the supply pipe to the radiators. A system with top supply is always vertical; heating radiators are mounted parallel to vertical risers.
The supply pipe runs through the attic or tech. floor, and the return pipe - in the basement or below floor level on the first floor.
Photo 3. The diagram of a two-pipe heating system with overhead wiring is suitable for private houses with two or more floors.
- ease of installation;
- low heat loss;
- airiness does not occur;
- excellent natural circulation.
- it will not be possible to install a large number of radiators;
- high consumption of components;
- does not heat a large area.
The chain is mounted taking into account three points:
- mandatory installation of an expansion tank at the top point of the supply pipe;
- if the coolant flow is natural, then a slight slope is taken into account when laying both pipes;
- the supply pipe goes to the batteries through the expansion tank.
Beam system with collectors
A collector is connected to the heating boiler - single thermal unit, from which each radiator in the room has its own branch. The collector is:
- simple;
- improved(with automatic temperature control).
This option is suitable for a two-story house. Departs from the collector from two to twelve knots- depending on the number of radiators in the house. If necessary, the number of layers is increased.
To the collector "comb" you can connect a pump- for forced circulation of liquid. And hide the structure itself in a closet so as not to spoil the aesthetics of the house.
- durability;
- ease of repair(no need to disconnect the entire circuit);
- temperature adjustment;
- uniform temperature in all rooms.
- price.
Reference! To somehow reduce the cost of pipes, it is better to install a manifold cabinet in the central part of the house.
Installation nuances:
- Typically, this system uses metal-plastic pipes. When installing into the floor, it is recommended to wrap each pipe in insulation so as not to injure it on the concrete during expansion.
- Recommended diameter is 16 mm.
- Do not route pipes through doorways- otherwise the pipe may be damaged when drilling.
- When laying through walls, it is recommended to install them in cartridges.
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With forced circulation
The built-in pump ensures rapid circulation of liquid in the system, which reduces heat loss along the path.
Increased speed prevents mixing of hot and cold water - the temperature in all rooms is equal.
By adjusting the flow rate of the coolant, the temperature in the room is controlled.
According to the project, a pump is built into the forced circulation system to accelerate the coolant.
- comfortable operation;
- possibility of choosing a mounted circuit(collector, one-, two-pipe);
- heating adjustment;
- increasing the service life of components;
- installation of pipes of smaller cross-section.
- pumping system increases initial installation costs;
- noise from a running pump;
- additional electricity costs.
Installation nuances:
Place of installation of the pump group depends on the method of pipe routing. Thanks to the artificial pressure inside the system, the slope is not installed.
With natural circulation
The liquid in the system, heating up, rises and goes into the radiators, where the coolant cools. The cold liquid sinks down. Pressure depends from the temperature difference. The cycle is closed.
- The boiler is installed below the level of the radiators.
- Branch pipes are smaller in diameter than the main pipe.
- A diagonal connection would be correct., in which hot water enters the radiator from above.
- To improve fluid circulation a slight slope is provided.
Install an expansion tank: if there is excess pressure, some of the liquid will flow into it, and if it falls, it will return back into the system.
- low cost;
- Possibility of installation of one- or two-pipe systems to choose from;
- easy repairs;
- does not clutter up the space;
- reliability;
- long service life.
Available only in single-pipe natural circulation systems:
- Uneven heat distribution: in rooms located closer to the boiler it is hot, in rooms further away it is cold.
- Additional expenses: To increase the temperature in cool rooms, batteries are built up or powerful radiators are installed.
- Increased fuel consumption(compared to pump type).
Installation nuances:
- Overheating protection is built into the circuit to prevent airing.
- Each radiator is equipped with a bypass, a thermostat and a Mayevsky tap.
In natural circulation circuits, only water is used (due to its density, antifreeze is not suitable).
Useful video
Watch a video review of a two-pipe heating system, connection options, pros and cons.
Readers.
The unavailability of centralized heating makes you think about installation. With its help, you can create comfortable conditions inside the building at any time of the year. Most people choose water heating for a private home. Almost anyone can assemble circuits of the most complex circuits with their own hands. We invite you to get acquainted with the distinctive features of water heating and the nuances of installation work.
The disadvantages of water heating include:
- Low efficiency.
- Uneven heating of the coolant in the pipeline.
- The need to install an expansion tank.
The disadvantages of water include:
- freezing at zero temperature;
- an increase in volume when the state of aggregation changes, which can cause a pipeline rupture;
- salt content, which leads to the appearance of sediment on the inner surface.
Attention! To prevent the formation of sediment on the internal surface, only distilled water should be poured into the heating circuit.
They are often used instead of water. Such substances are not afraid of low temperatures, but they cannot always be used in a traditional water heating system. They are toxic and can have a negative impact on human health if the system is depressurized.
Standards and requirements for autonomous heating
The requirements for the heating system are set out in SNiP 2.04.05-91. The standards contained in this document are intended to create a comfortable microclimate. Some recommendations are given in SNiP 31-02, which regulates the rules for the construction of single-family houses.
The requirements for what is used are established separately. Its temperature should be in the range +60÷80ºС. Maximum heating is limited to +90ºС. In this case, the outer surface of the heating elements, access to which is not limited in any way, should not heat above +70ºС.
When deciding how to install heating in a private house, you should pay attention to possible methods of installing a heating system. Preference may be given to:
- Open. The pipeline is laid along building structures. For fastening, clamps and clips are used. Are used . The choice in favor of polymer products is made only if it is possible to protect them from mechanical and/or thermal influences;
- Hidden. The water circuit is laid in specially prepared channels and grooves hidden behind various. Relevant for buildings that are planned to be used for at least 20 years. In this case, the service life of the pipes should exceed 40 years.
Attention! The open laying method is a priority.
Features of a water heating system
This system became a direct continuation. It allows you to simultaneously heat several rooms, while a traditional stove cannot cope with this task. To do this, heating devices are installed in each room, the layout of which is worked out for each private house individually.
The coolant liquid, heated in the boiler to the required temperature, enters the pipeline. Moving through the pipes, it begins to give off its heat to heating devices, which can be either a circuit. Heating devices, in turn, transfer heat to the surrounding space. The cooled coolant is returned back to the boiler, heated to the set temperature, and the cycle is repeated. Thanks to the continuous movement of the coolant, it is possible to maintain the temperature in a private home at a comfortable level.
The first parameter can be calculated as follows: divide the system power by the difference in coolant temperatures at the inlet and outlet and the heat capacity of water. The pressure is selected in such a way as to ensure normal coolant flow at each point. Especially for our readers, we have prepared convenient calculators for calculating the performance and pressure of a circulation pump.
