Two ways to get rid of excess moisture in the area. Drainage in a summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess water Drainage of a drainage area
High humidity in your area is fraught with harmful consequences: water suppresses the root system of plant crops, which provokes their diseases and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Is it possible to avoid such problems? The best option to prevent them is to install drainage in the dacha area. This procedure is not so complicated that you need to hire professional builders - you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the simplest ways of arranging it.
Every summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his plot really need drainage? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your dacha area. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles in the area for a long time after rain, the ground dries out for a long time after watering or melting snowdrifts - the first signs that you cannot do without drainage. To further verify this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if after a day it is full of water, proceed to arranging the system without hesitation.
Scheme of drainage arrangement on the site But there are four more conditions under which drainage is required:
- groundwater lies very high;
- the dacha stands on dense clay soil;
- the site is located on a pronounced slope or, conversely, in a lowland;
- Your area experiences heavy rainfall regularly.
As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to delight you with their growth, paths not to become deformed, and your dacha not to be flooded, start construction work.
Types of systems: surface and deep site drainage
When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide what kind of system you need. It can be of two types.
Superficial- the simplest drainage option. Its functional purpose is to drain water that falls on the land in the form of various precipitation, for example, rain or snow. This system works great on flat terrain without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located along the entire perimeter of the site. Over time, water collected in ditches is either discharged into a special reservoir or simply evaporates. The surface system can be combined with traditional storm drainage.
Deep drainage Deep– closed drainage. Such a system is needed if your site:
- located on uneven terrain;
- located on clay soil;
- has high groundwater;
- for any other reason is difficult to operate.
Deep drainage makes it possible to effectively protect not only vegetable and garden crops from increased moisture, but also the dacha itself and all utility rooms.
Advice. Since installing a deep drainage system requires serious ground work, it is recommended to do it before you start planting the main part of the crops. An even more optimal option, if possible, is to arrange drainage in parallel with laying the foundation.
Preparatory work
Drainage is an engineering structure that is an extensive system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, along the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, installation work cannot begin without a clear design of the drainage system.
The project must indicate the following points: location of all drainage trenches, water flow, diagram of vertical drainage sections, location of wells, depth of drains. It is also important to determine the dimensions of all components of the system and their slope relative to the top soil. Such a detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all elements of the drainage system during its arrangement, that is, it will simply make your work easier.
Laying drainage pipes An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and consumables that are necessary for installation work:
- perforated pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
- parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
- drainage wells;
- hacksaw;
- tamping tool;
- rail;
- building level;
- geotextile for drainage;
- crushed stone;
- sand;
- shovel;
- wheelbarrow for transporting earth and supplying building materials.
Construction of a surface drainage system
Performing this type of drainage is technically a simple process.
- Dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the dacha area: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water drainage.
- Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
- Lead the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.
Advice. To make sure your trench is working, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If you notice deviations, be sure to adjust the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.
- Place drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
- Fill the trenches with various sizes of crushed stone on the geofabric: two-thirds - large grains, and one-third - small grains.
- Place turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.
Construction of a surface drainage system In the second case, the continuation of drainage construction after digging a trench looks like this:
- Prepare plastic drainage trays.
- Place a layer of sand no more than 10 cm at the bottom of the trench. Compact it well using a manual trench.
- Place plastic trays in the trench.
- Install sand traps.
- Mount decorative grilles on the trays - they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a more attractive appearance.
Deep drainage on clay soils and other difficult terrain
The algorithm for constructing a deep system in difficult areas is as follows:
As you can see, there is nothing unrealistic about installing a drainage system at a summer cottage, so don’t be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the required type of drainage and follow the rules for its installation. And don’t forget that by making an effort just once, you can protect yourself from a lot of problems in the future, namely, from the death of vegetable and garden crops and the flooding of your own dacha.
It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists, however, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out yourself. First of all, it is necessary to understand the types of drainage and the various schemes of its design, as well as its purpose. Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If you install it incorrectly, the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil erosion.
In this article we will tell you how to properly drain a site with your own hands on peat and clay soils, and also show diagrams, photos and video instructions for draining a site.
Kinds
Drainage system for a home To properly drain a site, you need to understand its types and understand the operating features of each.
Drainage happens:
- superficial;
- deep.
Surface drainage can be easily done independently, without the involvement of craftsmen. This is a relatively easy job.
It is best to carry out deep drainage at the stage of building a house.
The building also needs protection. It often happens that the flow of groundwater penetrates into underground premises. Water can flood a cellar, garage, underground parking lot or recreation room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.
Surface
Surface drainage
Surface drainage of the site is carried out using various rainwater inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with flows of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.
There are two types of surface drainage: point and linear.
It cannot be said that one type of drainage is better than another. Often both varieties are used together for greater effectiveness. All devices in the system require regular cleaning, otherwise they will no longer function properly. A well-organized drain serves well and does its job.
Spot
Point drainage
With spot planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the sewer pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.
Improper planning will lead to moisture penetration into the underground rooms.
The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to run pipes to the sewer system. The top of the tray is covered with a grill. This is both a protective and decorative element at the same time. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grill and remove debris from the container.
Linear
Linear drainage system
The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the operating principle remains the same.
Linear type drainage Plastic or reinforced concrete trays are used for drainage. They are equipped with a grille on top that covers the gutter. The system has garbage collectors that make cleaning the trays easier.
Installation of such systems is necessary in cases where:
- it is necessary to protect the foundation from rainwater;
- there is a risk of soil erosion;
- there is a need to remove moisture from sheds, garages and other structures located in lowlands;
- to protect paths in garden and suburban areas.
Installing a water drain will not be a difficult procedure even for a beginner. Its structure is extremely clear.
Deep
Diagram of deep drainage device
Drainage trenchesDeep drainage of a garden plot is a very complex procedure. However, if you have skills in construction work, then you can cope with the task.
Typically, both types of drainage are installed in areas: deep and surface. Such a drainage network will provide absolute protection from moisture.
Before installing a buried system, it is necessary to determine in which direction the water flows during rainstorms. This indicator is one of the most important.
If you make a mistake with the level of incline, you can harm yourself with your own work.
You can find out the direction of water flow without studying the area. To do this, just wait for the first downpour and see where the flows are heading.
Laying drainage pipes Trenches are dug at the site. Their pattern resembles a Christmas tree.
Filling the trench The trenches are filled with crushed stone and small stones. This will allow moisture to easily flow to the pipes. The installation of drainage on the site must be carried out according to all the rules, so every little detail must be taken into account.The complexity of arranging a drainage system is that in each case its design is individual.
The general drainage scheme is simple: a receiving well, drains and a collector that removes excess moisture.
Calculation and design always depend on the characteristics of each specific site. You cannot take and install the same system on everyone. In some places additional drainage means are required, but in others the simplest device will do. As a last resort, you can turn to maps to determine the nature of your site. 
Drainage system diagram
Even if you have data from maps, you should not neglect additional practical verification of the slope. If it is not possible to achieve the desired direction of flow in some places, you can try to correct this with the help of embankments. However, such a procedure is also not carried out without preliminary calculations. A number of problems can be solved with the help of a drainage pump. This is a forced drainage system, which is used in cases where it is impossible to create a natural one, or an additional water outlet device is required.
On clay soils
On clay soils
Not all types of soil drain water well. These include clayey ones. Clay soil is characterized by an excess of moisture. Because of this, the required amount of oxygen does not reach the roots. As a result, the plants die. Dense turf also leads to oxygen starvation of plants.
If you want to make a landscape design on a clay area, then before implementing it you will need to make a drainage system. Thanks to it, the area can be processed immediately after the snow melts.
Laying in clay soil
When arranging a drainage system for a small area, it is not necessary to make calculations during the design process. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the parameters of the drainage system regarding drains:
- slope;
- location according to plan;
- depth;
- distance between rows;
- arrangement of wellhead and inspection wells.
It is better to use the natural terrain of the site with a slope when constructing a drainage system.
Using terrain
Using terrain
It is easier to work with a sloping area than with a flat one. This is due at least to a reduction in labor costs. All you need is to correctly combine open and closed drainage. The features of drainage systems and methods of their installation will be discussed later in the article.
Clay soil is dense and heavy, so to improve drainage properties the soil should be thoroughly loosened. In the process of laying drains, it is necessary to bypass places intended for vehicle passage.
On peat soils
On peat soils
In peatlands, the groundwater level is usually high. Because of this, these types of soils are practically not used for growing plants. In peat bogs, the root system of plants simply rots.
Draining peat bogs allows you to reduce the groundwater level to 2-2.5 m. There is no need to do this if soil drainage has already been carried out on your site. This can be easily determined. The site was drained if there was no stagnation of melt water and the groundwater level during floods did not exceed 1.5 m.
This occurs only on low-lying peatlands or land cultivated by someone else. Most often, on peat bogs, you can observe a picture when the water is close, and in the spring, even in some places it is not absorbed into the ground. The only exception is the hot summer, when the groundwater level drops significantly, as a result of which the peat dries out and needs watering. The roots of perennials suffer greatly during the thaw period in winter or spring. In such a situation, over time, the death of plants is inevitable.
Excess water in the soil
Not everything is so sad. Peat bogs can be drained. What can be done for this? If the water is at a level of 0.8-1.2 m, then its excess can be drained from the site, for example, by planting birch trees or viburnum bushes in the northwestern side of the site or beyond. The fact is that birch trees actively collect moisture at a distance of 30 m from themselves. This way, you will drain the area without shading it with these trees.
If the water is closer, then you will have to make a high-quality drainage system. To do this, divide the area into sectors. In this case, drainage ditches are laid in the slope of the place to collect water. In the lower corner of the site, dig a drainage well or make an artificial pond. All excess water from the peat area will drain into it. If you decide to make a water collector in the form of a well, then the accumulated water during the summer drought can be used for irrigation.
Plant moisture-loving fruit/ornamental crops around the pond.
Two ditches should run along the edges of the land plot, transverse ones should be provided for high-quality drainage of the peat bog. For example, for 6 acres it is enough to make 1-2 transverse ditches. In this case, the depth of the ditch should reach about 40-50 cm. When digging a trench, dump the top layer of soil onto the edges of the beds that will be developed later.
Drainage pipe for wetland
If you are constructing an open drainage, then the ditches can be covered with a grate or bridges can be built across them. But for safety reasons, and for greater convenience of movement around the site, it is better to make a closed drainage system. The principle of its installation will be described below.
It is impossible for water to accumulate on even a small piece of land - melt or rain. If you find such accumulations, then make mounds of soil and sand, as well as fertile soil, in such places. The drainage system hoses must converge towards the well/reservoir.
In peat bogs, plants should be grown in raised beds. If the peat dries out in summer due to the heat, it will need to be watered regularly and abundantly.
In cases where the groundwater level cannot be lowered to a level of 2 m, fruit trees on it will need to be planted on artificial hills with a height of 30-50 cm. In this case, as the tree grows, the diameter of the mound will have to be increased.
Errors during arrangement
Basic mistakes of the drainage system
The most common mistake when installing a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, you must first understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.
For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. In difficult cases, you will have to contact specialists.
Video
The following video material will also help you understand the features of drainage:
Scheme
These diagrams will help you plan site drainage according to the requirements:
Drainage and storm sewerage
Closed drainage scheme
Diagram of drainage system components
Scheme of laying storm drains and drainage system
Surface drainage scheme
Drainage well diagram
Sectional diagram of a drainage trench
Scheme of a closed drainage system
Drainage system diagram
Drainage and drainage scheme
Wall drainage
Removing excess water from the site
Drainage of a site with a slope
Drainage system drawing
The dream of a landscaped suburban area may well become a reality. A local area with luxurious lawns, a beautiful garden, a productive vegetable garden, gazebos, patios, alpine slides - all this today can be arranged on soil of any quality and lands of any geodetic complexity, the main thing is to approach the decision correctly and not forget about such a procedure as site drainage.
This system is expensive, so in order not to get into trouble and not pay twice, you should figure out whether the existing landscape needs drainage, and if so, what type.
Why is drainage needed on the site?
What are the functions of drainage? The objectives of the system are as follows:
1. Collection of melt water.
2. Rainfall drainage.
3. Removal of groundwater beyond the boundaries of the territory.
It is not always advisable to comprehensively drain the soil by laying deep and surface drainage at the same time. Deep drainage systems are required only for swampy soil and those lands where the groundwater level is high. Linear drainage will not be superfluous anywhere. Seasonal flooding is typical for any climate zone. In addition, the quality of our soil generally leaves much to be desired. Clay soils have poor permeability, which also provokes the formation of puddles.
Linear drainage to prevent puddles
Flooded areas are death not only for plants, but also for wooden buildings and decorative structures. At best, they will have to be seriously repaired. At worst, demolish and install new ones. Both situations are financially costly, and if you consider that without drainage on the site there is a prospect of carrying out global reconstructions regularly, then it makes sense to think about preventing water stagnation.
Site deep drainage system
When site drainage is required
You will have to organize drainage from the land provided that the dacha area is located on a steep slope. To prevent storm flows from carrying away the fertile part of the soil, it will be necessary to create a surface, but not a point, but a linear drainage system with transversely broken channels capable of intercepting water and redirecting it to the storm sewer.
Drainage of a site on a slope
The reason to start installing drainage on the site with your own hands would be to place it in a lowland. In this case, it is initially a reservoir for collecting water flowing to it. In this option, drainage elements are located along the perimeter of the territory.
Drainage of a site located in a lowland
No less of a scourge are flat areas where water is poorly absorbed by the soil. This is where you need to design an entire system of point or linear drainage systems covering the entire area.
Collecting and standing puddles for a long time will tell you that the area needs to be drained. Inspect the lawn. Assess the condition of the bushes. Check if the soil is rotting. These tips are effective in already inhabited areas. On virgin lands, you will have to focus on what is happening in the area. Have the neighbors prepared a pit for the house and dug holes for the fence supports? Fabulous! Check them out. If there is an accumulation of water inside, try to figure out where it is flowing from. Ask the old-timers about the level of water in the wells over the past few years. If it turns out that groundwater lies less than a meter from the surface, then it is most likely impossible to do without installing drainage on the site.
Point drainage system
Surface drainage
“Drainage can be done with linear or point drainage”
The simplest solution. The surface system collects water from drains and the site. By providing rainfall with free flow paths, it relieves the soil from waterlogging.
Surface drainage ensures the collection of water from the site
To arrange such site drainage with your own hands, you do not need to involve specialists. There will be no large-scale work here. Drainage can be done with linear or point drainage. Point drainages are responsible for local moisture collection. This could be runoff from roofs or water from irrigation taps. To drain large areas, it is correct to lay out a linear drainage system.
Point drainage is responsible for local moisture collection
Surface drainage methods
An open drainage system can consist of either randomly generated grooves or parallel grooves. Each scheme has side inlets that carry water that enters the drainage to the central drain. Which type of surface drainage device is preferred should be chosen based on the type of soil and topographical conclusions.
Open drainage channel
Drainage in a random area
The ditches of such storm drains are adapted to collect water from soil of low permeability, where there are extensive low-lying areas of stagnation, the elimination of which by smoothing the surface is impossible or unprofitable.
By and large, random linear drainage is the prerogative of fields. The ditches scattered across the field are not very large. Most often they are quite small and do not intersect with the main drainage lines.
The purpose of the random grooves is to ensure the outflow of moisture accumulated in low-lying islands. To make random drainage of a site with your own hands, simply dig small grooves with the appropriate slope angle. The soil extracted in this case can be used to fill small lowlands.
Linear drainage will ensure the outflow of accumulated moisture
Field stormwater channels should follow through the main mass of depressions towards the natural slope of the site. This is the only way to ensure complete drainage of the area.
Drainage in a parallel area
It is rational to equip this type of drainage on flat, difficult-to-dry soils with numerous small depression flaws. The parallelism of the grooves does not mean they are equidistant. The walking distance depends on the soil conditions.
Closed drainage
Deep drainage helps reduce groundwater levels
Closed drainage structures are universal. They can drain melt and storm water no less efficiently than surface drainage. Since the system is hidden underground, it does not interfere with landscaping, which makes it quite popular among gardeners.
Vertical drainage
The main elements of this type of drainage system are wells, traditionally installed near the house. The outflow of water accumulated in them occurs using pumps.
Drainage of a site of this type is carried out only according to a professionally drawn up project. Without engineering knowledge and specific skills, it is not worth taking on the installation of drainage on the site with your own hands. Carrying out the work will require the use of specific hydraulic equipment, so leave the solution to this task to those who know exactly how to do it.
Vertical site drainage system
Do-it-yourself site drainage: main nuances
The choice of the type of drainage system is mainly influenced by the cause of flooding of the area. Clay soils, which are characterized by retention of melt and atmospheric water, can be brought into order by arranging surface drainage. Open-type drainage grooves will be quite sufficient to quickly remove excess moisture from the serviced area.
If the cause of basement flooding, erosion of the foundation, and swelling of the soil is groundwater, then the problem will have to be solved with a thorough approach, that is, by deep drainage of the soil. Both options for installing drainage on the site are available as standalone options.
Point drainage
To create a local open drainage network, drawing up a design diagram is not necessary. Its arrangement is logical in the case when flooding of the site occurs only at certain points and only when there is excessive rainfall. Sloping areas are most often susceptible to flooding: the area near the porch, gazebos. Water is guaranteed to accumulate in relief irregularities.
Places for installing point drainage
In the case where the problem area is located near the very boundaries of the land, to ensure drainage, it is rational to complete the drainage on the site with a regular dug trench that extends beyond its boundaries.
In steel cases, having noticed places of stagnation of water, they are equipped with dug-in water intakes or closed tanks. The water collected in them can later be used to water the garden.
Linear drainage
“Ensuring the uninterrupted operation of the surface drainage system occurs by calculating the correct slope of the drainage ditches”
Digging ditches across the entire site or certain corners of it is the best way to drain clay soils. Here it would not hurt to sketch out a rough plan of the future system, on which to mark all the drainage branches and the location of the drainage well to which they are planned to be connected.
Example of a linear drainage plan
Ensuring the uninterrupted operation of the surface drainage system occurs by calculating the correct slope of the drainage ditches. The process of arranging linear drainage systems will be greatly facilitated by the presence of a natural slope at the site. On flat surfaces you will have to create an inclination angle artificially. This condition is mandatory. Ignoring it will cause stagnation of collected water in drainage channels.
For linear drainage on a flat surface, create a slope angle
The quantity of channels to be laid is determined according to the absorbency of the soil. The more clayey it is, the denser the drainage network is branched. The depth of the trenches dug for drainage of the site with your own hands is about half a meter. The width of the groove depends on its distance from the storage tank. The widest will be the main branch of the drainage system, where water flows from all parts of the site.
After the drainage system on the site has been dug, they begin to check the quality of its functioning. To do this, a strong flow of water is launched through the watering hoses through the channels. Correctly supply water from several points at the same time.
The assessment takes place “by eye”. If water flows slowly and accumulates somewhere, you will have to adjust the slope and perhaps even widen the groove.
After making sure that the drainage is ideal, you can start decorating the drainage of the area. The appearance of open ditches is not aesthetically pleasing. When working on a drainage system on a site with your own hands, the easiest way is to decorate it with different fractions of crushed stone. You can put larger elements of stones at the bottom of the grooves and sprinkle small ones on top. If desired, the last layer is made from marble chips.
Decorating linear drainage
If this is not available, replace the material with decorative gravel. What does this mean? Having selected some of the fine gravel, it is painted blue, in different shades. By pouring it into the channels of linear drainage systems, you will get the illusion of running water. For a complete association with streams, plant the banks of the ditches with flowering plants. This way you will get not just a functional drainage system, but also a luxurious design element.
Channels dug along the perimeter of the site are often covered with a decorative lattice.
Decorative grating for drainage channel
Filling surface drainage with gravel is not only a matter of aesthetics. In fact, this is also an opportunity to strengthen the walls of the ditches, preventing them from collapsing, and also protect the bottom from washing out. Therefore, by using gravel backfill, you will extend the operational life of your drainage system.
Service Features
When caring for surface drainage, special attention is paid to the cleanliness of the outlet channels. Even small growths on the walls and bottom can cause a decrease in operating efficiency. Drains are inspected after every rainfall. All obstacles that appear in the way of the drain must be removed.
The drainage system needs regular cleaning
The second point will be to control the slope angle of the linear drainage elements. When smoothing it, you will have to adjust the bottom of the channel by digging or adding.
Point drainage is cleaned manually.
Do-it-yourself deep drainage of the site
If the problem of swamping is not in super clayey soil, but in nearby groundwater, then you will have to worry about developing a closed drainage system. Types of work are arranged in the following order:
1. Understand the depth of laying drainage pipes on the site. This indicator is affected by the density of the earth. The higher its numbers, the less deep the drainage. Let's look at an example. Drainage pipes are immersed in sandy soil by at least a meter; for loams this parameter is already 80 cm. In clay soils, pipes are placed no deeper than 75 cm. Why can't drains be installed higher? In addition to soil density, there is another indicator. We are talking about the depth of its freezing. The drains you lay should lie below this mark, then the pipes will not be deformed.
An example of a deep drainage device
2. Select the type of pipes. If surface drainage can be installed without any specific conductors, then for deep drainage of the area, drains will have to be purchased. What does the modern assortment offer? The drainage elements of the system are manufactured:
– made of plastic;
– ceramics;
– asbestos.
Ceramic pipes are quite expensive for installing drainage on a site, but they will last for centuries. There are estates where the closed drainage area made of ceramics has been functioning for 150 years. Asbestos-cement products, although durable, are practically not used today due to their environmental unsafety.
Inexpensive and practical perforated plastic is at the peak of popularity. As a component of deep drainage of the site, pipes from it will need additional protection from clogging with small soil particles. If this is not taken care of initially, then after a very short time the drains will become clogged and will stop letting water through.
Perforated plastic pipes for drainage
It is good to use geotextiles to insulate the drainage pipes of the site. It is only possible to avoid wrapping drains with filter material in clay soil. Here it will be enough to lay the pipe on a twenty-centimeter layer of gravel. This option will not work in loams. The pipes will have to be wrapped in geotextile fabric. The worst thing will happen to owners of sandy plots. Here, the components included in the deep drainage system of the site will have to not only be wrapped in geotextiles, but also covered on all sides with a thick layer of gravel.
Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washout of the foundation, flooding of beds, swamping of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer you cannot walk around your summer cottage without rubber boots.
In this article we will look at:
- How to arrange water drainage on the site.
- How to make a budget storm drain with your own hands.
- Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.
What kind of water interferes with the life of a developer and a country homeowner?
A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, taking on the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewer systems is throwing money away.
The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large amount of excavation work involving equipment.
Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site has already been inhabited, landscaping has been done, a blind area has been arranged, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.
You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.
From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help you find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of an area.
Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:
- Capillary water.
- Ground water.
- Verkhovodka.
Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground it turns into underground water.
The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.
Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!
Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, discharging water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief on the personal territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.
The main mistakes that are made when installing drainage yourself:
- Failure to maintain the correct slope of laid drainage pipes. If we take an average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.
- Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on “wrong” soil. To avoid siltation, pipes in geotextiles are used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.
- Using cheaper crushed limestone instead of granite, which is washed away by water over time.
- Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m/day (with a single pressure gradient).
Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm drain
The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.
Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for installing storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.
Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member
I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain the melt water that comes from the neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.
Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.
Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.
Hooked on the idea of an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a scheme for laying the trays.
The result is the following “pie”:
- Soil base in the form of a bed.
- A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
- Concrete about 7 cm.
- Tray made of asbestos-cement pipe.
When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.
Denis1235
As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.
Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage for the portal user with the nickname yury_by.
yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member
Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.
After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times less than “red” sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.
Eventually yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when installing internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.
yury_by
If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.
The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.
We dig a hole to collect water.
Level the base.
We install a concrete ring.
The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.
We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.
We paint the manhole cover.
We insert a drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe into the well, maintaining a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.
We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.
To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.
We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.
This completes the production of the budget rain shower.
Construction of low-cost drainage and drainage of wetlands
Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not a light summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.
In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.
Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE
Peat soil is characterized by a high groundwater level. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To drain the top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn’t spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.
The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.
But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.
Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member
I have a plot in SNT with a total area of 8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone floats. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.
Many people believe that the higher the soil moisture, the better for plants. In reality this is not entirely true. There are many plants that thrive in a humid environment. These include weeping willow, birch, currants, sedge, nettle, etc. However, most crops are not able to develop in overly moist soil, since it becomes very compacted, which deprives the plant roots of access to air and gradually leads to their death. In addition, wet soil has a detrimental effect on buildings, reducing the life of the foundation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to build a pile foundation. However, you can get rid of all these problems by draining the area yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the cause of its swampiness. There are a number of different drying methods. To choose the most suitable one among them, you need to consider the following factors:
- presence of buildings on the site;
- direction and level of groundwater occurrence;
- soil composition, its water resistance;
- height to which it is necessary to reduce the groundwater level.
The main causes of excess soil moisture
In some cases, it is not easy even for specialists to establish the reason why a swamp has formed on a plot of land. As a rule, excessive soil moisture is caused by two main reasons:
- The location of the land plot in a low-lying reservoir, as a result of which groundwater is located quite close to the surface. This reason is not often confirmed, since few people buy land in wetlands.
- Disruption of normal water flow due to heavy rainfall. This problem can be caused by a variety of factors, including the location of the site below adjacent sites, the presence of a water source feeding the swamp, or the presence of a layer of viscous clay near the surface. Each specific situation uses its own solution to the problem.
High location of groundwater
To drain groundwater located near the surface, a fairly deep closed-type drainage is used. It is placed around the perimeter and throughout the entire area of the land plot. If draining water deep into the ground does not lead to the desired result, then it is necessary to construct a drainage well and use a pump to constantly pump out the water and discharge it outside the site.
Clay soil
Soil with a high clay content does not allow water to seep through easily, so it remains soggy for a long time after rain and snow melt. If a piece of land has a slope, then water flows from the soil surface located above it. In such cases, the best solution is to use open and fill ditches to store and drain water deeper into the soil. The use of closed-type drainage is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the soil surface is not justified in all cases.
swampy area
A very effective, but extremely expensive solution is to raise the soil level and build a drainage ditch around the perimeter. Before you begin draining a plot of land, you need to decide on plans for its future use and calculate the optimal depth of water drainage. In case of seasonal waterlogging of the site, you can dig a ditch in its lowest part. In addition, it is necessary to arrange open drainage channels, which are often located throughout the entire site. Sloping areas must be protected from soil sliding by planting plants.
Location of the site in the lowland
To combat waterlogging, you can use a drainage well and pump. If possible, it makes sense to build a reservoir in the lowest part of the territory and make closed drainage throughout its entire area. The soil should be drained until conditions for development are provided for plants and the foundations of buildings do not collapse.
Soil delivery
To increase the surface level of the site, you can bring in fresh fertile soil. If you plow it, it will mix with the marshy soil, and crops can be grown on the site. Land plots treated in this way do not require fertilizers over the next few years. But we still need to take into account that a swamp is a stable ecosystem, so after some time the area can return to its original appearance.
Adding sand
If you add sand in equal proportions to the soil of the site, the quality of the soil will improve and air exchange will increase. If you additionally add humus, you can grow herbs, berries, and vegetables on the site. Adding sand to wetlands is one of the most effective reclamation methods. It is especially effective when used on clay soils with some excess surface water.
Drainage
The most effective method of draining surface water for a long time is to create a drainage system. For its arrangement, plastic pipes are used, the walls of which have small holes. They need to be wrapped in geotextile in two or three layers, based on the size of the soil particles. The pipes are placed in pre-dug channels to the following depth:
- for sandy soils - up to one meter;
- for loams - by seventy to ninety centimeters;
- for clay soils - by sixty-five to seventy-five centimeters.
Channels for pipes are made with a slope to allow water to flow to the lower part of the land plot. In gardens located in wetlands, a ditch is usually dug for general water drainage. In case of its absence, it is necessary to consider how to ensure the drainage of excess water into a nearby reservoir. Channels can be filled with gravel or crushed stone. When using this technology, the situation improves significantly after two weeks.
Planting moisture-loving trees
Moisture-loving trees help effectively rid a wetland of excess moisture. Birch, willow and alder grow well on such soil. They evaporate excess moisture through the leaves. Birch and willow trees effectively drain wetlands, but sufficient drying takes several years. In addition, waterlogged soils are suitable for growing viburnum, blueberries, and cranberries. Sedges and reeds usually grow in wetlands. To destroy them, you need to drain the area in a suitable way, for example, by draining excess water into the nearest body of water. These plants have a powerful root system, and to prevent the appearance of new growth it is necessary to remove it.
Use of open and closed ditches
Using open drainage ditches you can remove excess moisture from the soil surface. Their edges are beveled at an angle of twenty degrees. The disadvantages of this method include rapid shedding of the walls, stagnation of water due to contamination of its outflow with debris and leaves. For this reason, such drainage structures require regular shoveling. The use of open drainage ditches in areas with sandy soil is impossible due to the rapid leaching of sand, as a result of which water drainage is ineffective. It is best to arrange an open drainage ditch near the fence so that it does not create any interference. Closed drainage ditches are deep trenches that are filled with sand and disguised as garden paths. Their advantages lie in aesthetics, and also in the fact that the soil in them does not crumble, and the water inside does not bloom. In order for the drainage system to function correctly, trenches are dug to a layer of sand that absorbs water, or drained into a well.
Digging a well or pond
Arranging a decorative pond allows you to create a reservoir to collect excess water, where it will gradually evaporate. At the same time, the land plot will become much drier, and the pond itself will become a decoration of the landscape. Wells are no less effective than ditches. To arrange them, holes are dug at the lowest points of the land plot and sand or crushed stone is poured into them. In the upper part, the diameter of the pits is 2 m, in the lower part - 0.5 m, and the length is approximately 1 m. After rain or snow melts, excess water gradually flows into them.
Raised beds
To grow strawberries, vegetables, and herbs on excessively wet land plots, high beds are arranged. Excess water collects between them, and the plant beds become drier. This method allows you to cultivate agricultural plants even in areas with excess water.
