How to properly install a safe door in your home. Installing a metal door with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Every home owner wants his home to be reliable. To do this, it is best to install a metal door at the entrance. It is strongly recommended to study the installation instructions to avoid incidents.

Preparing for installation

Before starting work, the apartment owner needs to consider what the estimate will be for installing such doors.

Removing the old door

First, it makes sense to purchase a new door frame. If the buyer does not want to purchase a bad copy, already in the store it is worth carefully unpacking the frame and door leaf, and then re-wrapping it in plastic using tape.

You can completely remove the film from the canvas after installation and finishing are completed, so that the surface remains clean and undamaged.

It is also necessary to prematurely acquire the necessary materials for work, such as the following:

• Hammer;
• Hammer;
• Roulette;
• Angle Grinder;

• Building level;
• Wedges made of wood or plastic;
• Cement mortar;
• Anchor bolts. Instead of bolts, steel rods with a cross section of 10 mm will also work.

The boundaries of the door opening must be clearly visible in order to take measurements. The platbands must be removed from the tray, then the unnecessary solution is cleaned off, and, if possible, the threshold is dismantled.

If the purchased box is wider than the old one, you need to find out the length of the support beam located above the opening.

The length should be 5 cm greater than the width of the box, otherwise the fastening will be unreliable. At the end of the measurements, preparation of the opening begins.

When dismantling an old metal door, you need to pay attention to several nuances:

• The door leaf can be removed from the one-piece hinges using a regular screwdriver.
• In the case when the door is supported on collapsible hinges, you need to lift it with a crowbar, and then it will slide off the hinges on its own.
• The wooden empty box is easy to dismantle; all visible fasteners must be removed; When the box is firmly inside the opening, you can saw the side posts in the center and tear them off using a crowbar.
• To remove the welded box, you will need a grinder, which can be used to cut off the mounting hardware.

Preparing the doorway

After successfully removing the old door, the opening is prepared. First you need to rid it of pieces of putty, brick fragments and the like. It is necessary to remove from it all elements that risk falling off. If the opening ends up with huge voids, it won’t hurt to fill them with bricks and cement mortar.

You should not pay attention to small potholes, but the cracks should be covered with mortar.

Large protrusions, which can also interfere with the installation of the door, must be removed with a hammer, chisel or grinder.

Then a thorough inspection of the floor under the door frame takes place.

If the owner of the apartment lives in an old building, he needs to know that a wooden beam is installed in this place. If it is rotten, this element must be removed.

After this, the floor under the box must be filled with another timber, which has been treated against rotting, then it must be laid with bricks, and the gaps must be filled with mortar.

DIY installation

Of course, the safest thing to do is call a professional to install the door, but if desired, this can be done by the owner of the house himself, following the instructions.

Preparing the door

When the old frame is removed and the opening is cleaned, it is time to prepare a new iron door. Since it is very difficult to fit a lock into a door, it is recommended that you order a sample with the lock already fitted. But one way or another you will have to install the handles separately, screwing them with self-tapping screws. Before you begin installing the door, check how well the locks and latches function. Their main criterion is smoothness when working with them.

As for doors that go out onto the street, the door frame needs to be lined with insulation from the outside.

Alternatively, you can use stone wool cut into strips. It needs to be inserted into the frame, and it will be held in place by elastic forces. It is not without its drawbacks: cotton wool is hygroscopic, which can result in rust from inside the door. This is not a problem for houses in high-rise buildings: precipitation is not observed in the entrances. But another solution is to use polystyrene or foam, as they are resistant to moisture and have reasonable insulation.

The paintwork of the box risks being damaged, so it is recommended to cover its perimeter with masking tape. It must be removed upon completion of the creation of the slopes intended for the door.

If there are wires running above or below the door frame, you need to install a piece of plastic pipe or corrugated hose. Through them the wires get inside.

It is recommended to use MDF panels. Metal doors with this material can be easily cleaned of dirt, have thermal insulation properties, are resistant to deformation during temperature fluctuations and high air humidity, and MDF also has a rich color range, and the owner of the house can choose panels that will harmonize with the design of his apartment . But metal-plastic replacement of an MDF panel will require additional costs.

Sometimes the apartment owner seeks to secure the apartment with an additional vestibule door. The procedure for installing it is not much different from installing an entrance door, but it is worth considering that in the case of a vestibule, you will need to obtain permits.

Installation in the apartment

The instructions for installing a door in an apartment are as follows.

• First you need to align the stand with the hinges in two planes. For this you need a plumb line.
• Then, using a hammer drill, you need to drill recesses in the opening through the mounting holes with a depth corresponding to the anchor length or the length of the pins. After this, the level is checked again. The box stand is attached to the wall. To do this, you will need anchors that need to be screwed in. Alternatively, you can hammer it in with metal pins.

• Next, the canvas is hung on hinges, which must be pre-lubricated.
• For proper door installation, you need to align the second post of the frame. To do this, the door is closed. By moving the rack, you need to ensure that there is a gap between the rack and the door that corresponds to the entire length, approximately 2 or 3 mm. A false post is fixed in the opening, but with the condition that the door can be placed in a frame without complications. The lock should then function without any complications.

• The gap between the frame and the wall is sealed using cement mortar or foam for installation. But first you should tape the box to avoid unnecessary contamination. To do this you will need masking tape.
• When the foam or mortar has dried, the slopes are plastered, or, alternatively, lined with finishing materials. You need to decorate the outside of the door with platbands.

In a wooden house

Installation of an iron door in a timber or log house has its own specifics. In such places, windows and doors are not inserted into the wall, but using casing or frames. The pigtail is a wooden beam. It can be movably attached to any frame. Its connection occurs using a tenon or groove connection. It holds up not without the help of elastic forces. The door frame can be attached to this beam.

Sometimes it is necessary to make a casing. A wooden house has a habit of changing height. During the first five-year plan, it squanders due to shrinkage. Taking this condition into account, the seams for planting are also sealed. During the first year, not a single door or window should be installed.

The changes in the second year no longer seem so obvious, but they are there nonetheless. Therefore, there is no point in firmly securing the doors, otherwise they may jam, bend or prevent the log house from sitting properly.

Log houses experience significant shrinkage over time. Wooden openings need to be handled carefully. For example, in no case should you hammer in pins whose length is 150 mm.

To safely install an iron door, you first need to cut vertical grooves in the wall opening from the end. Sliding bars are installed in the recesses

The number of required grooves depends on the number of points for fixation.

Then a special casing is installed in the opening, after which it must be secured using self-tapping screws to the sliding bars. The gaps along the racks should not exceed 2 cm, and on the horizontal crossbars should be no less than 7 cm. Otherwise, after a year, the shrinkage of the frame will not allow the door to open.

In a brick house

A metal door can also be mounted in a brick wall. Samples of canvas that can be easily removed are easier to install. Before installation begins, the door is removed from its hinges. The door frame is then inserted into the opening area, it is placed at the bottom on a lining with a height of 20 mm for installation. This shouldn't be a problem.

It is necessary to change the lining thickness in order to ensure that the lower frame is level. To do this, set the building level horizontally, then vertically. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the racks stand exactly vertically, without deviating in any direction. In this case, you will also need a building level.

But there is a nuance: the bubble device is located on the short part of the instrument. You can also check the correct installation using a plumb line.

After the box has taken the desired position, it is wedged using pre-prepared wedges. They can be either wooden or plastic. Wedges need to be inserted onto the racks, three pieces on each and a pair at the top. They should be located close to the fastening area, but not overlap them. Then it doesn’t hurt to additionally check whether the stand is installed correctly in both planes and whether it deviates.

After this, you can mount the box in the opening. There are two types of mounting holes: either steel eyes that are welded to the box, or a through hole for mounting (they are also divided into two types: on the outside - large in diameter, and on the inside - smaller). Installation methods do not differ much, except that it is possible to install frames with holes in the frame on thinner walls in a panel house, where it is much more difficult to install doors with eyelets.

Additional advice from experienced craftsmen: you need to take into account that the number of fastening points of the box to the wall is at least 4 on the side, if you need to mount the door into a wall made of brick or concrete, and in a foam block - at least 6.

The length of anchors in brick-concrete walls should be 100 m, and in foam block walls - 150 m.

In a frame house

There are some nuances when installing a door to a home on a frame. For successful installation you will need the following tools.

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• self-tapping screws;
• building level;
• sledgehammer;
• screwdriver;

• corner;
• roulette;
• locking pins or anchor bolts;
• polyurethane foam;
• spacer bars made of wood.

The opening reinforcement is checked. The jambs must be located on all opening sides and fixed on frame racks. The casing can also be made of bars, but this will reduce the opening size. It is necessary to seal the opening walls with a film intended for hydro- and vapor barrier using tape or a stapler. You need to insert the entire door block into the opening (preferably with the help of a partner, since the structure is heavy). Then you need to open the door. The block should be located under the canvas.

Using a level, you need to find out the location of the frame in the opening area and align the frame horizontally to the floor and vertically to the wall or frame.

Mandatory condition: there should be no distortion during installation of the box. After this, the correct position of the door is fixed using wedges, then the door needs to be closed.

Then you need to very strictly secure the door in the casing. Holes are drilled through the holes. They will play a decisive role in fastening the metal door frame. The slots are needed for bolts or studs, they must pass through the frame and the posts. Then they need to be secured using a frame with a door. Then you need to make sure how well the door works in this position: it is contraindicated for the studs to turn out, because a frame house practically does not create shrinkage. Using studs or bolts, the threshold and lintel are fixed and tightened with these tools until they stop.

If the door closes normally and does not open on its own, you can fill the area between the metal frame and the frame, starting from the floor and ending with the ceiling, with foam.

This seam needs to be filled around 60-70%, and then you just have to wait until the material hardens. Then you need to check again whether the door works well and close the seam with platbands.

• You should not install the door overlapping the wall, as this will prevent the door from breaking in and isolating extraneous noise.
• When opening the door, it should not interfere with neighbors leaving their apartments, so it is recommended to agree with the neighbors in which direction the installed door should open.
• If a new door is installed before the renovation is completed, it is better for the apartment owner to temporarily order an unfinished MDF panel and hold off on installing expensive locks: there is a risk of damage to the clean panel during garbage removal, as well as the risk of the locks becoming clogged with concrete dust.

• If an apartment owner wants to order a high-quality door that is burglary-resistant, you need to take care in advance of strengthening the opening, otherwise it will not be possible to create the right level of protection: there will be a risk of the wall collapsing in the places where the frame is attached.
• When installing the door, it is recommended to temporarily remove electrical cables.
• It is recommended to check how airtight the vestibule is. To do this, you need to take a strip of paper and pinch it with the leaf (this procedure is done along the entire perimeter of the door); if the strip is firmly clamped by the seal, then everything is in order.

• It is better to install doors on a clean floor or parquet, otherwise after installation there will be unsightly places in the lower area of ​​the frame. If the owner of the door still decides to install the door without a finished floor, then he should leave a small gap of at least 2.5 cm, otherwise he will have to saw down the door leaf in the near future.
• It is worth additionally installing extensions, which consist of a pair of vertical posts and one horizontal bar. They are designed to “encompass” the frame more and can be purchased with the door block or separately. They are made from solid wood, MDF and fiberboard.
• The Chinese door is not recommended for installation. Despite the relatively low price, its quality is inferior to European copies.

The installation of wooden entrance doors is carried out everywhere due to aesthetics and affordability, but there are installation features. First of all, you need to purchase the necessary tools and consumables (sealant, nails, screws, additional elements). Then you should carefully dismantle the old block; here you cannot do without fittings for a wooden entrance door.

To figure out how to properly install a wooden door, you first need to understand that products come in different designs (paneled from solid wood, frame panels, glued, on a metal base), shape and size (rectangular, arched, individual), as well as type (street for a private household or for the landing of an apartment building).

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The wooden panel can be single, one-and-a-half, or double. Processing technology affects the complexity of assembly, installation and their specifics.

The elements of wooden doors are:

• canvas (size matching the size of the opening);
• hinged device for mobility (opening and closing);
• latches when closing;
• fittings (hinges, handles and locks, peephole, closer, stop, armor plate, counter);
• decorative components (platband, core).

All this can be purchased individually or as a set in disassembled or almost assembled condition.

List of required tools

Set of tools for installing wooden entrance doors:

1. roulette;
2. construction level (preferably laser);
3. perforator;
4. Bulgarian;
5. sledgehammer with hammer;
6. drill;
7. anchor;
8. material for sealing the opening (foam or cement mortar).

Installation instructions

A wooden door block is a frame and a leaf connected by a system of canopies. Installing a wooden entrance door with your own hands involves preparing these parts and installing them.

But at the very beginning it is important to pay attention to the floor level. A construction wooden level helps measure the height of the stand boxes. It is necessary to make markings for the mounting holes.

Allowable level correlation is 3 mm.

Preparing the wood means installing the lock and handle and determining the location for the hinge pieces. The latter is best done with the finished box and fitting it into the opening. The wooden box is assembled indicating the joining points. Then - direct installation:

• the box is fixed to the opening with wooden wedges;
• if the walls and ceilings are concrete, the diameter of the drill must match the thickness of the dowels;
• Self-tapping screws are installed into the dowels without tightening;
• attach loops and circle them (parts of the loops are located at a distance of 20 cm from the edges of the end of the wooden panel);
• the end, as well as the places for the hinges, are varnished;
• attaching hinges to the canvas;
• the block is inserted into the opening and the hinges are finally fixed, and the screws are tightened.

The technology for installing a wooden door is simple for a knowledgeable person. The only difficulty is the physical effort at the last stage (lifting the product and attaching it to the grooves in the doorway). But after installation, the following work must be done:

1. seal the gaps between parts of the system with sealant;
2. install platbands, check the operation of locks;
3. plaster the distance between the door and the main part of the house structure so that they have a more aesthetic appearance.

The finishing of the opening is carried out not only for beauty, but also for better fixation of the wooden door to the base of the house.

Preparing the opening

Useful tips for assembly and installation begin with removing old trim and cleaning the gaps between the door and the opening, and removing the door leaf. To do this, you need to cut out two transverse holes from top to bottom. Then the vertical parts of the old door frame are removed. You can use a crowbar if you lack your own strength. To ensure that the top beam does not interfere with the installation of the product, it is removed in the same way.

Assembling the box

A wooden box consists of three or four profile bars arranged in a frame. 2 vertical beams are called racks. Their height is similar to the door leaf. The short beams are called the upper lintel and threshold.

Stages of working on a wooden box:

• the profile beam is cut to the required parameters;
• the protrusions on the upper and lower rack are removed;
• all parts are fastened with self-tapping screws or bolts;
• the outer and inner sides are determined;
• Grooves for hinges are cut on the inside.

Incorrect assembly of the lower part of the box, as well as all its other corners, can result in the wood splitting when screwing in the screws, if you do not first drill several holes in the end of the rack. The diameter of the drill bit of a screwdriver or drill does not exceed 3 mm. And the screws themselves must be screwed in with a screwdriver in all corners.

To complete the process of assembling the frame, you should try on the existing door leaf. The gaps between it and the racks should not exceed 2 mm.

Hanging the fabric on hinges

To install, you need to know how to place the hinges and secure them. The process of connecting the door leaf to the frame is important. Installation can be of the following types:

1. invoice;
2. mortise;
3. screw-in

The simplest first option is to attach the leaf on top of the door block. The mortise type is characterized by the presence of recesses, due to which they merge with the surface. The screw-in type uses special pins for screwing into wood.

Any type has two parts, which are attached either to the frame or to the door leaf. To connect the loops, they are placed one on top of the other. The weight of the wood piece can be a challenge, but the principle is simple.

Filling cracks with foam

Gaps can appear both between the leaf and the door frame, and between the door block itself and the structure of the house (walls, ceiling, floor). The first ones are blown with foam. But, in order to prevent the hardening foam from creating holes and gaps due to pressure and falling to the bottom, it is advisable to initially place cardboard in the cracks. The sealant adheres better to a wet surface, so the opening should be slightly moistened with water. Blow out the gaps in the closed position. It is advisable not to touch the wooden structure for 10-12 hours. The remaining foam is carefully cut off with a construction knife under a ruler or spatula.

Installation in utility room

If you already have experience in installing an entrance door in a house, then you can use the same principle to install a wooden door block in the utility rooms. The difference lies in the filigree of finishing work on the installation of the technical door. You don't need both sides of the lock - just the outer side is enough.

Installation procedure for sliding structures

Sliding doors are popular due to their functionality, space saving and visual appeal. The process of installing them depends on the type of fastening, which can be:

• non-threshold - the doors are held on the upper suspension;
• threshold - sometimes the system is mounted on the floor;
• universal - with top and bottom fastening.

The scheme of working with sliding models is practically the same at the initial stage: dismantling the old door, preparing the opening, taking measurements in the places where the door leaf will be attached, installing the frame.

Then they move to the top level of the system. To do this, apply a wooden sheet and mark its upper level. The beam is fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws - this is the place for the guide rails. Next, the lower guide rail is loosely attached to the beam. The free movement of the product is checked and, if necessary, the self-tapping screw is screwed in more firmly.

Then the bolts are screwed into the carriages with rollers and placed on the rail. Travel limiters are attached.

If lower fixation is also planned, a groove of at least 18 mm in depth is cut. A wooden panel with carriages is fixed, and the gap between the door and the wall is adjusted. It should not exceed 5 mm.

It is almost impossible to carry out installation on your own. At least 2 people will be needed.

Additional elements when installing a second door

The installation of a second wooden entrance door is carried out for noise and sound insulation and heat conservation. The best way to cope with this is with insulation made from dermantine or felt. The presence of an additional lock and handle, designed in harmony with the style of the hallway, increases reliability and emphasizes the taste of the home owners.

The security and inaccessibility of any home depends on many factors, and the presence of a strong and reliable entrance door is one of the main ones. Among the various types of doors, the most durable are metal doors, which are also heavy and expensive. The installation of doors itself is a rather complex task that cannot be handled alone, so before installing an iron door, invite two or three partners to help in this matter.

Preparatory work

Before installing an iron door correctly, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. Namely: take measurements of the doorway, order an individual door production or purchase a ready-made door according to the measurements made, as well as dismantle the old entrance door if it was previously installed.

Doorway measurements and door selection

This stage of work is the simplest and easiest. To measure the doorway, you will need a tape measure and a notebook in which we will record the dimensions of the door. First of all, we measure the height from the finished floor to the top of the doorway, then we measure the width from wall to wall inside the doorway. Now we measure the depth of the doorway, which is equal to the thickness of the wall. Based on this data, you will have to choose a suitable door for yourself.

Please note a few very important points. Firstly, when choosing new entrance doors, you need to take into account that the gap between the doorway and the frame should be 25 - 35 mm, so the resulting dimensions will have to be reduced slightly. Secondly, if the old doors are still installed, you will have to dismantle the trim and carefully inspect the doorway. It is possible that the geometry of the opening is broken. In this case, you will have to take the dimensions again and select the smallest value for height and width. Thirdly, doorways and doors are standardized, so when purchasing a new door you can safely name your dimensions, and you will be offered a ready-made door block. But, if you decide to make doors to order, then give the opportunity to a professional measurer to take all the dimensions, this will help to avoid many mistakes and unnecessary waste.

Having taken all the measurements, you can purchase new iron doors or wait for them to be made to order for you. It all depends on preferences and wishes. The only thing that needs to be noted is that you should be careful when purchasing in a store. Today, the market offers many Chinese-made iron doors, which are positioned by our sellers as armored entrance doors. But such doors can be easily opened with an ordinary can opener. How this can be easily done is shown in the video:

Removing the old door

After purchasing and delivering a new front door, you can begin dismantling the old one. To do this you will need a crowbar and a grinder.

First of all, we remove the old door leaf. To do this, you need to open the door leaf completely and, lifting it with a crowbar, remove it from the hinges. If the canvas hangs on permanent hinges, then simply unscrew them from the box. After this, we remove the old trim and gain access to the doorway and the door frame fastening. Now you can begin dismantling the door frame itself, which will be much more difficult compared to removing the door leaf.

Important! There are two main points in dismantling a door frame. Firstly, the vertical posts of the frame can be secured to the doorway using nails, anchors, bolts, self-tapping screws and other things. And before you start dismantling, you will have to remove them. Secondly, if the doors are iron, then the frame can be welded to metal rods or plates embedded in the doorway. And to disconnect them, you will have to use a grinder.

Having dealt with the fastening, we take a crowbar in our hands, place it between the doorway and the frame, after which, using the crowbar as a lever, we rip the old box out of place. If the box is iron, it may require two crowbars and the help of a partner to undermine and move it. If the door frame is made of wood, then everything is somewhat simpler. You can, simply by applying force, tear out part of the box. Or you can file the box posts in several places and then dismantle them with minimal effort.

Now that the opening is completely freed from the door frame, we take a hammer in our hands and knock down the protruding piles of old plaster, mortar, putty or paint. It is necessary that the doorway be cleared of anything that could interfere with installing the new frame in place.

Entrance door installation

Now that the old door has been dismantled and the doorway has been cleared of all unnecessary things, you can begin installing a new iron door. But before you install the iron entrance door in place, you will have to decide on the method of fastening. There are the following methods of fastening a door frame in an opening:

First- using rods or plates embedded in the wall. This is the most common mounting method. The doors themselves are flush with the doorway, and metal plates or rods are installed on the inside, and the door frame is welded to them.

Second- the door frame is secured through the holes in the frame posts using anchor bolts or steel rods. Usually the door frame, which is attached in this way, has holes, but if there are none, then you can drill them yourself. Then holes for fastening are drilled through them. Both anchor bolts and steel rods can be used as fasteners. Moreover, the latter can either be riveted or welded to the box canvas.

Important! The second fastening method is used only when the door frame is recessed into an opening whose depth is more than 150 mm.

Third the method is a combination of the first two.

Installing a frame in a doorway

Having decided on the mounting method, we begin installation.

First of all, we install the box, which is a metal frame and weighs quite a lot. Therefore, it is better to bring it into the opening together.

As soon as the box is brought inside, it must be secured using wooden or metal wedges. We drive in wedges 2 pcs. top, bottom and sides. In this case, the main thing is to maintain the technological gaps between the opening and the frame.

Once the door frame is fixed, you can align it in the vertical and horizontal plane. You will need a level for this. Let's start from the vertical. We apply a level on the front side of the doors in the middle of the pillar and, if necessary, wedge wedges so that the box leads in the direction we need. We check the vertical position on each of the two racks. Now we align the box horizontally. The procedure is identical to that described above, the only difference is the alignment plane.

Having leveled and spread the box with wedges, we proceed to its final fixation. Using a hammer drill, 3 holes are drilled at the fastening points on each side for fasteners. As mentioned earlier, these can be anchors with a diameter of 15 mm or steel rods made of reinforcement 15 mm in diameter and 100 - 150 mm long.

We drive fasteners into the drilled holes and once again check the vertical and horizon of the box. This must be done for the reason that during the drilling process it could have moved slightly out of place. If everything is in order, we secure the box completely.

We tighten the anchor bolts with a wrench, but the reinforcing rods and steel plates can be secured using a welding machine.

Important! It is best to drive in rods and metal wedges with a small five-kilogram sledgehammer.

Before welding the frame to steel rods or plates, they must be trimmed with a grinder so that the excess is removed, but at the same time the rods or plates themselves protrude slightly on top of the door frame.

Hanging the door leaf and installing the lock

After the welding areas have cooled, you can begin hanging the door leaf. The door leaf itself is very heavy, so it requires two or even three people to install it in place.

But first you should lubricate the door hinges. The process of hanging the canvas is quite simple. Two people lift the door and bring it to the frame so that the hinges on the door and on the box match. The third, if necessary, guides the fabric until the loops completely match. As soon as the holes and hinge pins have been aligned, the door leaf is lowered little by little and ensure that it is completely seated on the hinges.

Having finished with this, you can install the lock in the iron door and begin drilling holes in the frame for the locking bolts of the lock. To do this, you will need a drill and two attachments of the required diameter: a crown and a grinding attachment for holes. Of course, these holes may already be ready, but if for some reason they were not made earlier, everything can be done during installation of the door. To do this, after installing the lock in place, we pull out the locking bolts and apply, for example, paint to them, after which we return them to their original position and close the doors tightly. Now we are trying to close the lock. As a result, the paint will mark the location for the holes. All that remains is to drill the holes and sand the edges.

Having installed the frame and hung the door leaf, we close the gap between the doorway and the frame. For these purposes, you can use polyurethane foam, or you can use cement-sand mortar. Here, whoever likes it more. An easier and faster way is to blow it out with foam. To avoid accidentally staining the new doors with polyurethane foam, we glue the edge of the frame with masking tape, and for better adhesion of the foam, the walls can be slightly moistened with water.

To foam the entire perimeter of the door, one can of foam will be enough. After a day, the polyurethane foam will completely dry and polymerize. Protruding pieces of foam can be easily cut off with a knife, after which you can begin plastering the slopes, installing extensions and other finishing work.

Despite the apparent simplicity, installing iron doors is a very difficult task, requiring craftsmen to have excellent command of the tool and experience in performing such work. If you decide to install doors yourself for the first time, try to find a mentor who will guide the progress of the work and can help in case of an error. Otherwise, it is better to contact professionals.

How to install an iron door: video review

In this article we will talk about how to install the front door yourself correctly: we will reveal the features and subtleties of this process.

The front door is primarily the protector of your home. Therefore, it is worth approaching its installation in good faith and carefully studying this article. If you don’t want to waste your time on this undertaking and have an extra couple of thousand rubles, then you can hire a specialist.

Before installing the entrance doors, you need to dismantle the existing “protector”. To do this, first remove the fabric from the loops.

With detachable hinges, this is done simply: open the door wider and, using a pry bar or crowbar, lift it until it comes off. If the hinges are one-piece, then there should be no problems here either: they can be separated using a simple screwdriver. That is, they unscrew.

There are 2 options possible:

• Wooden box. In this case, if possible, first unscrew the fastening screws and pull out all the nails from the vertical bars. After this, using a pry bar or a large nail puller, we tear out all the parts of the box from the opening.

You should know! To make it easier to dismantle a wooden door frame, you can make cuts on its side parts. This will speed up the work.

• Box. Here you will have to tinker a little. Especially if it was attached by welding. To solve the problem, you will need a grinder with a metal disc. Do not forget about safety glasses or a mask!

Preparing the doorway

After dismantling, you should prepare the doorway for installing a new door.

We perform the following actions:

• Getting rid of the remaining protruding parts: nails, screws, pieces of plaster and insulating materials.
• We measure the opening and door block. If necessary, we enlarge the opening: we use a sledgehammer or a cutting machine with a diamond blade.

You should know! The size of the opening should be at least 2 cm larger than the size of the box, maximum 2.5 cm.

• Narrowing of the opening, as a rule, is rarely done. But if there is such a need, then this should be done using a cement-sand mixture of grade M-300. A metal corner can be used as formwork.

Procedure

Material and tools

After you have decided which entrance door to install, purchased (see) and delivered it, you can begin installation.

First, let's prepare the tool:

1. Hammer drill (impact drill) with a 15 mm drill. The working length of the drill must be at least 180 mm.
2. Construction level with three eyes.
3. Hammer.
4. Tape measure (at least 3 meters long).
5. Screwdriver.
6. 17mm socket wrench. Head length - at least 4.5 cm.

Installing an entrance door to an apartment is a task that many people face when planning to replace it. There are two solutions: pay for the installation of doors in the same store or company where you purchase them, or install new doors yourself.

This article is a specific example of installing an entrance door with your own hands, showing that if you have a couple of hours of free time, desire, and a minimum of tools, this task is within the capabilities of many..

During the renovation of the corridor, they decided to install a new entrance door. We decided to buy it not ready-made in the store, but to order it according to the dimensions of the opening. After reading advertisements and reviews, we chose the company. A representative arrived, took measurements, and two weeks later a new insulated metal door was delivered. To save money, we decided to install the front door ourselves.

Tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool that will be useful in the future.

We will need:

• mount;
• perforator;
• drill with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 150 mm;
• hammer;
• level;
• grinder with a metal disc;
• polyurethane foam;
• spray bottle with water;
• dowel-nails (in our case, 120 mm long and 10 mm in diameter);
• hacksaw for metal;
• masking tape (if there is no protective film);
• screwdriver;
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
• spacer wedges.

Don't neglect your protective equipment. Be sure to wear gloves, and wear goggles when working with an angle grinder and a hammer drill.

Removing the old door

Using a pry bar, we dismantle the cash, if there is one. Having opened the door leaf approximately 90°, we slide the pry bar under it, closer to the side with the hinges and, lifting it, remove it. If the hinges are skewed or they are rusty and do not come off, you can try to unscrew them with a screwdriver or using a screwdriver. You can also simply cut the loops with a grinder.

We use a hacksaw to saw through one of the frame posts and dismantle it using a pry bar. We have the upper cross member of the box behind the top of the side pillar, and the threshold behind the bottom. Finally, we dismantle the remaining rack.

It is advisable to unscrew or pull out all fasteners. If this is not possible, cut them with a grinder or a hacksaw, and hammer the protruding parts back into the wall. Remove loose plaster from the walls around the perimeter of the opening and clean the floor surface of debris.

Installing a new entrance door in an apartment

We insert the box into the opening, ours is monolithic, after first removing the door leaf from it. We set it according to level. First, apply a level to the side post on which the hinges are located, along the front and inside. We used a magnetic level. It is convenient for them to work with metal structures, since both hands remain free. The length should be from 400 to 800 mm. A level with a shorter length may cause an error, and a longer length may not be convenient to work with. In addition, with a level longer than 800 mm, it will be difficult to set the horizontal, because Usually the width of the door leaf at the doors in the apartment is 900 mm.

Installing the box level.

If necessary, to achieve the level, we hammer wedges between the wall and the frame, or the floor and the frame. Since our old door frame was made of wood, we did not prepare the wedges in advance, but made them out of it.

We use wooden wedges of the required size.

Having achieved the desired verticality and horizontality, we fix the box onto the mounting plate located at the top hinge. To do this, use a hammer drill to make a hole in the wall and drive a dowel-nail into it.

Hanging the door

It is advisable to immediately lubricate the hinges with machine oil. We check the level again. If necessary, add additional wedges.

After making sure that everything is in order, we fix the stand with hinges to the remaining mounting plates.

We close the door. Align the side post on the lock side. We make sure that the gap between the door leaf and the pillar is uniform over the entire height. To do this, we move the stand until we get the desired result. We check that the locks close and open freely. We attach the rack to the mounting plates by making holes in the wall with a hammer drill and driving in dowel nails.

Use a spray bottle to moisten the gap between the wall and the frame around the entire perimeter. Let the water absorb.

Fill the gap with foam. If you have no experience working with foam and the frame of the front door is not protected by film, then it is better to paste it around the perimeter with masking tape so as not to stain it with foam.

Close the door and let the foam dry for 24 hours. At this point, the installation of the entrance door to the apartment can be considered complete. In the future, we finish the entrance door slopes with plaster, plasterboard or panels.